Zed Head

The L28 engine is the same as the the L24 engine, except internally. It's a direct bolt-in swap. There should no change at all in any angles, or degrees of level. It's the same block, essentially.

The oil pan is. The cylinder bores are not perpendicular to the ground, they are tilted. There are no "level" surfaces on the top of the engine. Except maybe the intake manifold heat shields.

Use the oil pan mounting surface and/or the back/bottom of the engine where the transmission bolts up. Underneath.

I'd like to see where that black wire is connected also. Looks like somebody in the past either made a bad guess or used some bad logic. Wouldn't be surprised if it was just connected to the cover screw. Ground to ground.

And side forces on the bearing will cause more movement. The indicator probe isn't putting much push on the outer race. Stuff like this is why good machinists make good money and bad ones go out of business. No offense intended, just trying to point out how important the numbers are and how difficult it can be to get them, then use them.

The bubbles could be from gases already in fuel. Like carbonation in soda. I wouldn't get too hung up on the bubbles. Here's an article about vapor bubbles in diesel fuel. Not gasoline but the principle is the same. http://www.davco.com/forms/troubleshooting/F1318.pdf

There would be suckage but it looks very slight, I think.

I could be wrong. Let's get a picture.

Convenient and easy. Maybe not ideal though. Can't really say without numbers. Grab an input shaft of an assembled transmission and wiggle it. That will give you an idea of how much play there is in the bearings. Probably doesn't matter much though, people have taken apart working transmissions and found that the adapter plate bearings were shot.

Pretty sure that the factory set an official spec. No need to get your numbers from a guy in the Houston area. It's probably metric too.

Did you measure "slop" in the bearing? Just curious. I'm not a machinist but I took a GDT calls years ago. You could end up with a hole bigger than your cutter edges or one offset to one side. From slop in your alignment tool/bearing.

EuroDat and Dave WM had a discussion going about the insert orientation and how the FSM was wrong, quite a while ago. For the record. It's out there somewhere. Found it -

The hoses to the carburetor will be under pressure. Sucking only happens between the pump and the tank.

I don't think that bubbles in the fuel lines and empty filters are much of a problem. Gases can be absorbed by the fuel and will come out when the fuel is put under the slight vacuum of being drawn to the pump. The carb float bowls have vents so the fuel will just rise to its proper level and the gases will escape from the vent.

That might be one of those FSM errors. I think that all AFMs use the round eyelet as a ground. I've seen a lot of AFMs and never seen a wire with a connector coming through the hole in the AFM base like that picture shows.

jetz tipped his hand early. Dangerous move...

The Banzai car is at $13,200. Less than 2 hours left.

You can hook up a GM HEI module without cutting any wires. Completely reversible. The ignition modules are designed to sense very small voltages, and the trigger is when it goes from negative to positive. When you disconnect the wire you must be changing the potential across the two contact points.

I just remembered that somebody had jumped the two terminals on my car, a Federal model. I assume that one of the pickup coils had gone bad and they converted it, basically, to a single pickup coil distributor. Or maybe they were going for multiple spark...

Seems like the grounding is through the ignition module, if it grounds. It's a sine wave. Maybe somebody "hacked" your system in the past to solve a problem. Pretty sure 75 is the same as 76. I had no extra grounds on my car and no extra grounds after I switched to a GM HEI module. Might be worthwhile to try an HEI module. Worth having as an emergency spare, either way.

That's the same one I posted. Just saying. Already at $12,000. 2 days left. That car is done though. So...buy a driver, ready to go, or buy a project, to work on.

Be careful with the breaker plate. The ball bearings are probably stuck and if you put to much force on it you might break the plastic bearing cage. The "slide/setter" has a lot of wiggle room even when it's new. Once you lock the spring clips down on the cap it doesn't move. It's not a precision piece.

@madkaw has.

That picture shows how the clutch fork pivot ball mounting hole is a through-hole to the oil containing area. It can leak if you don't seal it. Just adding...

Here's one of them aggrygaters. Not as many out there as used to be. https://www.searchtempest.com/