Zed Head

Use a Sharpie or a scribe or some whiteout and mark the rotating plate and the pedestal. Match the marks when you reinstall it and your timing should be the same as when you removed it. There are actually two marks already on the parts, probably for the factory assembly, so you could take a picture and match the picture if you want to clean things up and lose the marks you made yourself. Some of them have marks that show advance and retard also, I think. The distributor can only install on the drive spindle one way. There's no "180 off" with the L engines. Pull it out, do your work, put it back and match the marks.

Another shiny late model 280Z, a 78. Burgundy. Looks pretty nice. New shifter bushings! And modified front license plate for optimum aerodynamics. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-81/

A decent 77 just came up, with some odd bumpers (upside down?), and a free shoe. Very shiny, looks like new paint. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-48/

Looks it came from the same field as the blue one, somebody's clearing out a collection. They must have a set presentation format, they didn't include any number verification or title information, again. Almost like they're not really trying to sell them.

One thing that I've found helps when bleeding brakes is to just think in terms of fluid and bubbles. You can bench bleed and do it wrongly if you have the wrong end of the cylinder up. Just be aware of where the air is and try to fill everything with fluid. And full strokes help because the bubbles will always hide at the top-most little spot. Imagine what's in the MC - the ports that head out to the front and rear ends is at the bottom. The bubble will be at the top. And, bubbles compress, so a slow incomplete stroke can just compress a bubble over and over again. Be the bubble.

Here's some crazy stuff. Remember "open the schools!". Now it makes more sense, if you're crazy. "Infants, kids, teens, young people, young adults, middle aged with no conditions etc. have zero to little risk….so we use them to develop herd…we want them infected…" Alexander added." https://www.politico.com/news/2020/12/16/trump-appointee-demanded-herd-immunity-strategy-446408

Why slow and why barely? I'd give a few good full pumps. It's new so there shouldn't be any crud in the bore to worry about. It should just squirt a bunch of fluid. Actually, to get picky, you were supposed to run the plunger through its stroke while it was off to bench bleed it. Bench bleed, install, continue system bleed.

Reserve not met for the bright red 73. The seller could have made $3,250! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-150/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-80/

Making fun of the English. Singing, shouting, cheering, packed together. Of course, NFL games are about the same. As soon as the cases drop they raise the risk of transmission. Not enough people are sick, get those crowds together! https://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/news/liverpool-news/what-december-16-tier-review-19451893

I've never done it but I live a lot of my Z life through the internet. This parts web site suggests that they're exactly the same and/or certainly interchangeable. Click around to make sure I didn't misunderstand it. Start from the beginning and see if you end up in the same place. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/front-fender-hood http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/front-fender-hood/1 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

No love for the 78 2+2 with automatic. It seemed clean, but was well-worn and sun-abused. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-22-7/

$22,500 for the nice green 71 with the L28. I think the guy probably left thousands on the table because he showed a dirty car. Collector/investors want shiny. Lstepp4re had to jump in and pump a little bit at the end. Surprised he didn't make a bid. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-162/

Are the Vogtlands even available anymore? Seems like they faded away. I Googled around and can't find a place to buy them for a 280Z. https://www.vogtland-na.com/us/en/products/?module=products&action=vehicle-form&year=1977&make=67&model=874&page=1

Those are some cool tools SteveJ. I need to get some leads like those. And that meter is the sparsest Fluke I've seen. Didn't know they made one like that. I did a search for it and see that it's discontinued. But I did stumble across another basic Fluke meter that would be a great starting point for anyone, I think. No amp measuring but very few people use that feature, and on a car you can use voltage drop as a clue. The Fluke 101. Appropriate. And it's small. Very tempting to get a spare. https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B00HE6MIJY/ref=sr_1_9_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=fluke+16+multimeter&qid=1608065034&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-9

That's not "bad" for starting. It means the current will get through. Infinite ohms would be bad. It is good that you're taking measurements though. Post up your numbers so people can see them. We can do this!! Many engines have been started on this forum, and made to run well!

What do you mean by signal? Are you using a meter? You really need a meter to work on these cars. And, if you don't answer the questions people can't offer specific advice.

I sent @Dave WM a reverse gear (can't remember which one) many years ago and he ended up not using it. Maybe he still has it and it will work for you.

If the problems are still all centered around lifting the cap then it seems like it might just be a CAS issue. Seems like lots of activity is happening but the CAS is involved somehow. You have to loosen the screws to lift the cap which might be releasing force that's causing distortion. Who knows.

A survivor. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-12-14/white-house-official-recovers-from-severe-covid-19-friend-says?sref=fqqmZ8gi "A White House official who fell ill with Covid-19 in September is recovering after three months in the hospital, though he lost his right foot and lower leg in his battle against the virus, according to a friend."

People who might not understand how vaccines work. England. They're going to Tier 3 now, no fans allowed.

The two strokes' glory days didn't last long but Yamaha had a good run. https://bringatrailer.com/2011/08/25/giant-killer-1975-yamaha-rd350/

I would start reading from this page in the FSM, below. The Turbo system has a lot of interconnected parts. The ECU has lights that flash when it goes in and out of closed loop control. Closed loop is where the O2 sensor comes in to play. You could probably watch the light while the engine warms up and see if things change when the light starts flashing. When you talk about what's going on it would be better to tell what the engine temperature is, instead of a "a while". Engine temperature controls when things happen. It's kind of a complex system that takes some real study to understand. That's why Nissan developed the Analyzer. Search for cgsheen's comments. He always recommends Megasquirt. He knows how the ECCS system works though. Are you sure the turbo isn't jammed? Your 30 mph limit sounds like something's blocking your exhaust flow.

What did you do to the engine and car, gas tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, injector system, etc., before you tried to start it? I had an engine once that only sat for a year and it wouldn't start until we put oil in the cylinders. The rings get dry and there's poor compression. Plus your injectors might be full of bad fuel, even water. 12 years is a long time.