Zed Head

We're contradicting each other here. Oh well. It all depends on what your end goal is. Everyone has their own way of doing things. Having the engine running will keep the battery charged.

It's very common to hot wire the pump for troubleshooting. Wire it to a circuit that is powered by the key or have a switch handy though so that you can turn it off quickly.

I would focus on the fuel pump relay. You have a lot of other stuff going on at the same time. Very distracting. Break the circuit down in to parts. Confirm power to the fuel pump relay. Confirm power on the circuit that is supposed to trigger the relay. If the trigger circuit doesn't energize the relay then you know where to focus. 77 has the combined relay. The FSM procedure is very complex and overdone I think. Like an engineer wrote it! I would just identify the couple of important pins in the plug and measure voltage there.

oops

Does the engine run now? You haven't really described what you're trying to do. Just your incorrect (no offense) thoughts about the fuel pump.

Since orange is a combination of red and yellow it might be that the red pigment is fading over time. Red BMW's and other old cars have that problem in a big way. I've seen red cars that had a cover over them but with parts exposed and the sun will just bleach the red out over the years. Makes for a patchy look, like it's had body work. Maybe it's just old paint versus new.

Take off one of the cowl access covers and take it to Home Depot's color matching machine. Today's tech is pretty powerful, you'll get numbers to compare against. I've found that the internet doesn't really transfer colors well, besides the quality of the phone or camera taking the picture. Who knows what color those really are.

As everyone is saying, this is correct. The pump does not get power when the key is on. Here's the pump test from the FSM.

Isn't the connection made in the seat belt latch itself? Latch it the buzzer turns off, open it the buzzer turns on.

30,000 person experiment. I'm so glad I don't have to make today's decisions. I just needed to watch my bank account and avoid getting sick since I had no insurance. Big university classrooms are packed. This can't end well. https://www.wdrb.com/news/university-of-kentucky-begins-performing-covid-19-tests-on-30-000-students/article_ccd25f62-d5a5-11ea-8cda-e76d7ab72ba4.html https://covidactnow.org/us/ky/county/fayette_county?s=819151

It's getting closer. 52 year old athletic type with some mental skills. Let's see how he does. https://www.espn.com/nfl/story/_/id/29589969/eagles-doug-pederson-extremely-optimistic-season-positive-coronavirus-test-result https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doug_Pederson

This is why someone like me would just go to the wrecking yard and get some 1995 Pathfinder thermistors. http://www.sfu.ca/phys/231/archived, 041-061/061/data_sheets/thermistor.pdf

I would bet that zcardepot sourced that thermistor from a modern vehicle. Maybe one with resistance in line. Probably gave it a short time frame test and went to market with it. Might be fun to go to the wrecking yard and tear up some fuel tanks.

Has to have been posted already but just in case...

Just put it back together when you're done. Tug that plastic piece out, take a look, put it back in. Are they/Is he going to resell a part that doesn't work? You could ask him. He might even be following this thread to find a solution. It's just one guy. I just wanna see what's in there...

The zcardepot spare part should still have its color code. Might be good to know.

It might be more than just another "flu". For those considering just living versus dying. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/aug/03/survivors-of-covid-19-show-increased-rate-of-psychiatric-disorders-study-finds https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/jul/08/warning-of-serious-brain-disorders-in-people-with-mild-covid-symptoms

Maybe the plastic is insulating the thermistor itself, allowing it to heat up over time. If I had that spare one I'd be tempted to tug on that plastic piece. Looks like it is slipped in after soldering, as a stabilizing piece. I bet that it will slide right up that wire.

I don't think that your choice is as simple as EFI/ITB or carbs. If you go with EFI you won't need the MSD igntion, for example. The EFI will use a crank signal. If you keep carbs then you'll need to get the right distributor for your timing advance curves. EFI will be easier to tune, and will probably be cleaner. But it has more parts, like the crank sensor, injectors, O2 sensors, etc. If you go with TEP's system you'll probably need to stay in touch with TEP if there are issues to deal with. If you go with Webers there are probably more people out there that know how to work on them. You're planning a big jump from where you're at now. https://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-triple-sidedraft-weber-carb-and-fuel-injection-conversions.html https://www.borlainduction.com/

A little over three months later... You might be busy but surrounded by shedders. Maybe Davidson county is safer. Type your county name in to the search bar on this web site and see how it compares. https://covidactnow.org/us/tn/county/davidson_county?s=817150

Moroso has instructions for some of their big sellers. The Chevy small block is one, I pasted a link below from their web site. The link says "unipan" so it's probably universal. They describe how to set the dip stick level if the pan comes with its own dip stick port. Cylinder lubrication comes from oil being flung from the crankshaft after it passes through the bearings, so if you have a deep sump pickup you're probably fine. But you're outside of the factory settings so you kind of have to rely on the aftermarket supplier to make sure it's right. I know your question was for people who have used that pan but I doubt that anyone on here has. Someone on hybridz.org might have, but even there the big oil pans are rare. Good luck. https://www.moroso.com/pub/media/instructions/unipan_inst.pdf

The "cage" is part of the bearing assembly. Typically just called the "bearing". When you say bearing you're talking about the balls and races and cage (AKA retainer). Basically your "bearing" is falling apart. Dave WM had a similar issue and rebuilt his many years ago. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_bearing#:~:text=Assembly is completed by fitting,only to maintain ball position.

New bearings will probably solve the problem. If it shifts well, you might not even want to install new synchros. People have reported that the aftermarket synchros are not of high quality. And the Nissan synchros, if you can find them, are very expensive. There are few rebuilding threads on the site. EuroDat, Dave WM, and I think zKars have all dived deeply. Some of the other members also. There are some tricks and special tools needed. You'll have to tear it all the way down,

Maybe it's an iphone thing. Here's my Windows 10 error message.