Zed Head

Is that Hank Jr.? I didn't cheat, but I will now. I was close -

Funny, I saw the cartoon and thought the right words to search to be sure, (Edit, deleted stuff - never mind. I see that the caption fits what he said. Oh well.) Would Heisenberg be more appropriate? Not the Breaking Bad one.

There might be numbers and/or letters under the dirt. Tokico puts a number on theirs.

But integrity is undefined until it's off and disassembled. The dilemma.

Try splitting the cover off of the pump body, 5 and 1. That's probably where the stuck bolt is stuck.

An N42 on flat tops will be up there, higher, in CR. But, usually, full timing is in by 2500 RPM, so you might be a little bit cautious. Your MAP curve (vacuum advance) seems a bit odd also, you might look at some examples from the FSM to see what Nissan does. @madkaw has done some tuning on performance engines, as well as @Diseazd and other that I can't remember right now. These are for 1973

I have seen descriptions of it being done. You have to put the number one cylinder in a certain spot so that you can get the pan past the counterweight. But rod bearings don't go bad quickly on these engines. If you have rod bearing problems there's probably a lot more wrong that needs fixing. You didn't say what car you're working on. Good luck.

Looks like somebody put a lot of work in to it. Why not the last piece though? Makes no sense! "400ci Chevrolet V8 is equipped with a Holley Stealth Ram intake and throttle body, sequential-port fuel injection, an electric cooling fan, an engine-compartment fuel pressure gauge, a Harwood plastic fuel cell, and a remote battery mounted in the trunk.......Power is sent to the rear wheels through a Ram clutch and a Tremec six-speed manual transmission." and an R180.

You can open up the 1977 or 1978 Prop and Diff chapter and there are drawings of the two. Yours is a typical ZX R200, it still has the ZX mount on the cover. The clean black one is an R180, the ring of 5 bolts is for the "side retainer". The R200 doesn't have those.

If your sprocket has the notch in it you can just use the notch and groove. Keep the tight side tight.

Coolant. If the seal goes bad, it weeps out the weep hole.

Check the weep hole.

My post was actually meant for Cruzzar, he's the one that would have/should have clicked the link to see what SteveJ offered. I wonder the difference is between the original and the replacement?

It was right there in SteveJ's second link.

Who? For the next guy...

I have a memory of posting this before, but I'll do it again anyway.

The title says ZX. Probably just typo'ed when writing the text. Has videos of it running. Terrapin Z is probably on his way there right now... @Terrapin Z

You can go direct to Cardone also. Wait - apparently not true. I'll bet Oreilly can do it. Leave your part there and get it rebuilt. https://www.cardone.com/randr https://www.cardone.com/userfiles/cms2/rr101_rev 23a_12-21.pdf

OReilly Auto shows that they can get them. Rockauto has a rebuild service through Cardone. Not sure how well either works. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/ignition---tune-up/distributor/8c7c95368caf/v/a/16440/automotive-car-1972-nissan-240z?q=distributor https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,ignition,distributor,7108

Somebody was selling new base plates that would let you use a ZX distributor on any pedestal. Can't remember who. He should be advertising the crap out of them now. Rockauto or Oreilly Auto plus one of those. Good deal. Sorry to pile on. I bought a new AFM for my car right after I got it and probably could have made my old one work. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/remanufactured/ignition---tune-up/distributor/8c7c95368caf/cardone-distributor-remanufactured/a1c0/31619/v/a/6640/automotive-car-1981-nissan-280zx?q=distributor&pos=0

I don't want to make you feel bad but it's probably the same distributor that you can get from Rockauto. He probably sends some cores in to have them rebuilt then resells them with a big markup. Can't believe what he's charging for those. Wow. Looks like he does add a cap and rotor and mounting pedestal. That's the advantage of collecting those old parts. He has the market cornered, you can't find them in the wrecking yards anymore. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1981,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209338,ignition,distributor,7108 https://www.californiadatsun.com/distributors-and-parts/datsun-240z-280z-e12-80-rebuilt-electronic-distributor.html?highlight=WyJkaXN0cmlidXRvciJd

That is foil-backed Mylar. There's also a clear Mylar that has no EMF protectant properties. Used to make transparences. Mylar is a trade name for the base material. It's polyester. https://usa.dupontteijinfilms.com/resources/trademark/

What would they make? If the 240Z shafts don't fit then he can't just say "make me a 280Z propeller shaft". He said he had a stack of 240Z shafts that have small flanges, whatever that means. If they don't fit then a 280Z shaft won't fit either. The reason the drive shaft shops won't replace the u-joints is probably for liability reasons. Nissan says that they are not repairable.