Terrapin Z

The lowering springs from Tokico are different front to rear as well. Some peeps have put them on the wrong ends of the car before. As I remember the springs have a number 50XX and a F for front, or R for rear on the coils. make sure you have these on the correct ends of the car, front to rear.

@Mike I have never watched a BAT auction near the end as I did this one. I don't see the commentary being any real issue in the way of the bidders. Trolling is status quo now-a-days. The fact that BAT gives you 2 minutes after every new bid is more like a real auction, as opposed to eBay with a set end time, you get snipers. (still lots of step in bidders near the end) This is like the Going, going, gone call. The real bidders know whats going on and if they have been outbid. If they want to step it up they have 2 min. to place a new bid and start the 2 min warning again. This one went up nearly 15K in the last 10 min. Trolls or no trolls if the car is legit, the bidders know it, and act accordingly. I am glad to see it went nearly right back up to where it was before the issues arose. Briank105 had been in the mix for a long while, and persistence paid off for him. He now has a very nice example of a Z.

$40K

T P C struck me as a vintage car flipper. Seems to have a bunch of $ to throw around like upping the bid on this BAT car. Hard to fathom how he can make much profit having so much in the buy.

The high bidder perhaps?? I do not have an Instagram account but just googled the name. Looks like a good possibility though. "Three Pedal Collective" http://picdeer.com/threepedalcollective

I agree with Patcon, you need some sort of vent, or you get vapor lock = no fuel. Even with just one vent line tagged to the filler tube bung, it is the gas cap that does the venting. Check that as well.

If I had known of a good local rebuilder that was the same rate I would have done that. If I needed another one done I would try Carls peeps in Portland

Congrats on the purchase and the trip home as well.... While the issues seem minor, I would still recommend going through all the systems before driving too much. Brakes, suspension, steering tie rod ends, ball joints, electrical, etc. While it does have low miles and is probably in great shape, the rubber bits tend to dry out and crack, old grease gets hard and crumbles. I expect you know these things, but err to the side of caution and check them out for yourself, Just to be safe.

I did not call to check but Motorsports Auto still lists them for $150 + a big core charge. I got mine from them years back. Still working good too. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Make sure to check the reaction disc is in place when you reassemble it.

It is an old S30 Chassis and Body manual, I can't find any date in it. Engine removal but no tear down sections (different book).Transmission, Drive line, Suspension, chassis, body, and Electrical etc. All pics are of a series 1 car, a couple are of pic's / drawings are even RHD. I think I got this one off eBay. You making it to the monthly meeting in Puyallup tomorrow? I can bring it if you want to check it out.

Good news, the button is easy as well. I saw you had the schematic but it does not explain the relay letters, I interpret them as B= battery , H = horn and S = switch. In the FSM I have the S and H look switched in position but the flow is still the same.

Darn spellcheck.... Was your relay missing Don? Looks to be the same relay for all 240 "s and looks the same as this lesser example, off a 73. Green to the horn on "H" Green / Red to power at fuse box on 'B" Green /Black to horn switch on "S"

I did not intend to imply it would affect anything. Just a plausible answer as to where they typically end up.

Once you take the plunger pressure off the disc, they sometimes just fall into the body of the booster. If you see it is not where it should be you might try pulling the booster off again shake it a bit and if you hear something bouncing around in there you can usually bounce it toward the opening and get it out.

You mentioned you pulled the booster off to have it tested. Like Diseazd says that reaction disc can fall off the plunger and end up inside the booster shell. Plagued me for a while, Once I fixed that everything worked fine. It is worth a second look to eliminate that as the problem.

Completely your choice. I think they look really good as well. I looked through a lot of his decals and think whom ever is doing the work (him or someone else) does a fine job. For plates and decals you cant get elsewhere these look like a good option. I do this too. On a lot of the parts cars I have picked up I find these painted over even ground on, rusted, and clean. with just 4 screws it is not like you are altering something like the door jam, which has rivets. Some of my collection showing various stages of condition. I save them from parts cars, and any I find at junk yards. Like dog tags of the fallen. I never understood why people wouldn't take them off before painting or restoring an engine bay. To each their own I suppose.

Trying out the 3D printing would be interesting for some things. I've seen some things that look pretty good and other that look horrible. I guess like anything, it depends on how good your equipment is. Buy a bargain cheepo printer and you get mediocre pieces....likewise an expensive nice printer will yield better quality. It is sad he charges USD for CN purchases. While these plates and some of the other stickers are reasonable. I think a lot of his pricing is a bit on the high side.

Like Wheee! says....... Sure enough they show one for the 77-78 280Z for $59.00. Here is the link : https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/datsun-z-car-id-plates I think they are in Canada but also list an address in Blaine.

I'm pretty sure the black writing on the tags is a painted on stencil. Aggressive cleaning with harsh a substance can remove all the black paint leaving just the stamped numbers. Just a possibility. I learned this when trying to clean some overspray off of one, and found the cleaner I was using was starting to take the writing off as well.

"Use adequate ventilation in confined areas"

@wheee! I believe he was referring to the shafts that go in the differential, having a right and left of different lengths.

Nissan does still show them available 38225-N3100 Side Gear Circlip $2.54 each. Finding the old ones or pieces thereof might be more of a challenge. The clips are the same for all the R180's

Nice find, indeed. It does look like all the emblems are shaved (hood, Pillars and hatch). Probably the fenders too. I'm with hiyabrad, if you don't buy it............

I does look like 1955 was a new start for the company. Perhaps they started a new numbering system at that time, after recovering from the war devistation.

My 73 has plugs on top, and open on the bottom. Both sides. I tend to agree with the production hoist / trolly theory, it looks like they would be in the right place for balance.