St.stephen

Just recently going through this, the chrome piece is just pinched onto the top of the door and are available through VB for 59.99 a piece. This includes the rubber "Squeegee" as well as the chrome strip.

I had bought a set years back from TWEEKS. these were flat stock 18ga with the "fram rail" floor support tack welded underneath. They were cut in the correct shape, however only had two bends in them...one in the back and one on the inner rocker side where you tacked them in. they were not easy to bend and shape without the proper metal working skills and tools. I agree with everyone else. if the whole floor has to go, ZED is the only way to go. If you're just patching then certainly 20 or 22ga metal will work and I have used that patch approach many times on Z's that were not going to be completely disassembled and done "frame up" per say.

you'd be better off checking in at www.hybridz.org. That site specializes in these types of swaps.

There's supposed to be four or six bolts that hold the heat shield in place under the intake on the 280. Most of them have either rattled loose and fallen out or most PO's remove most of them and only put two back in because most get fed up because they can be awkward to get in an out. the lower intake/exhaust bolts are located in between the exhaust webbing for lack of a better term. you just need to feel around for them and use a long 1/2 extension and ratchet.

yes that is what needs to be replaced.

I just replaced on in my 74 260. take off the door panel and you'll find 4 screws that hold the entire mechanism in place. its possible those have loosened up and the whole assembly is sliding down causing the window to go with it. either way you are going to have to remove the door panel to get in there and have a look.

its only a couple of hours. my post may be too late however 1. jack up the car, place jack stand under front mount 2. Remove front tire 3. remove cotter pin in castlelated nut on tie rod 4. insert pickle fork between tie rod and steering knuckle 5. hit back of pickle fork forcing in between spindle and tie rod 6. tie rod will pop out. 7. you'll need to loosen the tie rod from the steering rack. may help to spray with penetrating fluid. 8. installation is the reverse of this process. hope this helps :classic:

its generally referred to as a "pickle fork". It basically looks like a tuning fork. you would put the pickle fork in between the tie rod end and steering knuckle and hit the end of the pickle fork until the end drops out. should only take a couple of good whacks with a heavy hammer. once you drop the tie rod out of the knuckle and begin unscrewing the tie rod end from the steering rack, it helps to keep track and count the number of turns to ensure a relative close match on the reinstall.

I got the same exact quote yesterday. They are quite extensive with the questions they ask about the application of the vehicle and specific value, usage, etc...however it is quite cheap. www.hagerty.com

Not only is it a dash cap, it appears to be a half cap at that. Also look on the drivers side of the dash...its either a reflection, or its overspray from the door. looks like its missing the overrider on the front bumper as well. I'm not an expert on the 240 seats..and am not sure when the air vents appeared in the seat backs....

check out Mr Camouflage being a mr. penis.

that car def isn;t running in that picture. There's a host of vaccum lines not hooked up, the block that houses the connections for the pickup coil on the drivers side fender well is gone. The harness that runs along the passenger side of the engine bay doesn't look hooked up either. This ties over to where the pickup coil is hooked up at on the drivers side.

THe "Z" police :classic: I like that one!!!!!

I question this one. Got nice flat tops brewing, no series one hatch.... anyone else look at this one? 240 on ebay

I am completely unfamiliar with 240k's and could be totally wrong.... however wouldn;t the auto and manual starters be differant due to the ring gear on the flywheel and or flexplate?

well next on the list is def the parts washer, and the plasma cutter has been mentioned a few times. Now that there;s nobody in the house except me, there's no limit, no debating, no questioning. Thomas and I have contemplated renting a 10X20 storage unit locally to store parts on shelves and whatever else. There;s always room for tubs!!!!

I'd roll that thing into a corner of the shop until I am skilled enough to know old school lead filling techniques and I have an english wheel, sheet metal brake, etc brewing in the garage. that car is a perfect excuse to buy more tools

you guys are hilarious. quit focusing on one thing and look at the sum of the whole equation. lets start with the motor. Engine rebuilt with new bearings, piston, rings, valves and valve springs. piston kit out of VB 499.99 Main bearings 100.00 rod bearings 100.00 valve springs 90.00 valves - 7.95 X 6 (47.70) intake 9.95 X 6 (59.70) exhaust you're at a grand right there in just those parts for the motor. To finish the rest of the motor, you still need gaskets, take into consideration any machine work that had to be done, oil pump, water pump, pickup screen, timing chain kit, etc, etc. and the guy atleast did the fenders and hood as well as rebuilt the transmission. While some of you may balk at his price and call the car a POS, this is something I wouldn't walk away from. For 2500.00 you could potentially walk away with a squeeky clean fresh motor and trans ready for the next project. If the motor and trans work was done right, its well worth the money. As for the car itself, come on guys.....you have seen the pictures. I have owned worse than that :classic:

I've played with my share and would be happy to answer any questions.

you are both in my thoughts. Lets keep everyone healthy.

XL for this guy. However anticipate some of us growing into larger numbers

you might as well buy enough FI hose and do all of the lines while you are there. better to know everything is new and legit and not have to spend weekends chasing your tail. Good luck with the new purchase!!

thomas and I have been debating the fate of that 76 tub. Theres a strong possbility that once the 76 rolls out of the garage and the 260 moves into second position....that 76 tub could find its way into the garage and our hearts. really depends on how solid it looks once its gutted. I have enough stuff downstairs to build three more so thats taken care of. Its just a matter of what she really looks like underneath.

v12horse... I'm with you on the 260! stop hacking the roofs of any of the them. You want a convertable, buy a later model 300:finger: don't make me revoke z ownership privelages.