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kyteler

Auto -> Manual, Electrics Query

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Hey there Guys,

I know this is in the 240K forum but it's irrelevant I imagine...

I finally got the tranny swap all sorted and it's all in and bolted up, the shifter is in perfect position however... I can't find any info on wiring in regards to the starter.

I searched the forums and nothing addressed the problem other than a link to zhome which partially helped out in possibly clarifying what I thought the problem was.

On an auto there's a mechanism to stop the car starting whilst it's in gear.

How do I sort out the wiring now that there's no stupid 3 speed auto on there anymore..

My poor car, she's sitting on ramps and just needs to start.

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I guess the biggest question is where the neutral safety switch is. Is it on the old auto shift linkage or is it somewhere "invisible".....:ermm:

It ought to be just a simple two wire switch that you could just unhook the wires and connect the two of them together to bypass the switch....

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OK, well.. with Lachlan's help (Alfadog) I got a wiring diargram.. which made sense and seems to do at least something.. but not enough.

At least now the starter solenoid is clicking... but it's still baffling me.

So I got frustrated and shorted the start motor to bring her to life.. and took her for a run.. WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. :love:

Now tomorrow I've got to try figure out what's going on :mad: :ermm:

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Originally posted by 2ManyZs

I guess the biggest question is where the neutral safety switch is. Is it on the old auto shift linkage or is it somewhere "invisible".....:ermm:

It ought to be just a simple two wire switch that you could just unhook the wires and connect the two of them together to bypass the switch....

I think the switch itself is located inside the transmission.. however, I tried several combinations of wire connectings from the tranny section of loom to no avail.. I was getting nothing.

After receiving the diagram from Alfadog I clarified what each wire actually meant and tried again, unfortunately.. all it resulted in was the click I mentioned in the last post.. Perhaps there's just something wrong with that starter motor/solenoid.. even though it's clicking and it runs fine when you short it between the power and ignition switch.

I'll try the other starter that was on the auto tomorrow.. I hope that's all it is.. because being able to start the car without a screwdriver across terminals would be good :)

I also have a speedo problem.. Im probably going to have to run the cog that came in the 5speed because when I changed to the auto one, the cog body must be the wrong offset because it doesnt spin the cog at all, so it mustn't even be touching inside.

It's great to actually have a 5speed though :D I'm excited and I've only driven it for about 2 minutes and that was several hours ago! :love:

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Hey Michael, I think if the auto tranny was the Jatco unit, the switch is bolted to the right side. Maybe if you took the switch off the tranny and left it plugged in to the harness and rotated it as if it were in Park or Neutral then maybe the car would start. I had a Silvia(200SX) and the switch went bad. I thought there were 3 wires coming out of it. Its been a long time since I had that car though. Maybe you could just tie the switch up somewhere and leave it. If I remember correctly, its a rather odd looking kinda round switch. Hope this helps some.

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I know in a zed there are 4 wires with bullit connectors running to the auto, you simply reconnect them male to male and female to female.

Perhaps without the auto now the starter itsnt earthing properly, you may need to run another earth leed from strut top to engine

steve

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I am completely unfamiliar with 240k's and could be totally wrong.... however wouldn;t the auto and manual starters be differant due to the ring gear on the flywheel and or flexplate?

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Just to let you guys know

I am running (well attempting to) a manual starter, I'm going to try the old auto starter today once I get off my arse. :)

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Thanks for the suggestions and help guys, it's much appreciated.

It turns out it was just something with the other starter motor, so I'll have to get it sorted.

For the moment though.. the old Auto starter is on there and she's running sweeeeeeeeeeeeet. :D

Couldnt be more happy with her.. speedo is a bit out, but I used my brother driving 50 to figure out exactly what was going on speed wise and I'm pretty safe there now too. I'll still try and get the proper cog sorted.. eventually :)

For the moment I'm just happy she's all going! WOOHOO! went for a trip to the local autoparts accessory store.. ending up driving several other places back and forth across town for no other reason than to drive her :D

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Good work Michael

I wish you could've taken some photos of your swap it might be very helpful when I do mine.

anyway have fun with your 5 speed!

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At some stage I'll write the process down to make it easier for others, it's fairly simple.

Just a little time consuming if you dont make sure you have the right tools. :stupid: Like I didn't.

Note: Make sure you actually DO have a 12mm ring spanner and dont assume you do have one, cause that driveshaft isnt going anywhere without one.

This would have been a helpful artical for me... if I had of found it beforehand. But I didnt til afterwards.

So for you guys;

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/auto2man-gearbox.html

A few things on it I didnt worry about or I did it slightly differently but I'll do a write up with pictures or something later on.

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I read that article you posted and I think I'll leave it to the mechanics to do the swap.... :stupid:

I wish I can do it myself as I would like to learn but still need someones supervision or who knows a little bit to help me.

I'm asking this friends cousin to help me with it... just few more beers to go....

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my gearbox is making a weird noise when travelling 70kms/hr

and I think i posted this before about reversing on slight slope... its kinda slipping wont move at all you have to press the accelerator all the way down before it moves

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Hmm,

I cop the same thing on occasion in my coupe now; auto trans I get that prob in first gear but only before the car is fully warmed up!

I'll be looking for another manual trans soon, miss the sporty feel already!

Sorry I can't offer advice Razor, never been game enough to open up a trans, manual or especially auto.:ermm:

James

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Just out of curiosity Razor, are you sure there's enough fluid in it?

In an Auto you're supposed to check the level with the car running. That's what my mechanic/WoF guy told me anyway and he's been around for a while and knows his stuff.

Just a thought.

Other than that though.. Sorry no Idea.

BTW: I've taken a few more pics and I've kinda started work on the Auto -> Manual Conversion process, it'll be a wee while yet though, I want to try make sure I not everything down, I'd hate to be responsible for missing something out.

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I've checked the fluid and also my mechanic when I had it serviced.

And yeah the fluid is also in normal colour redish.

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Kyteler,

which gearbox did you use for your swap? 240K or from a Z?

just wondering which one is better gearbox...

I know if I use the 240K one its definetely a bolt-on job as this was an option for 240Ks, but Z gearbox are easier to find but little more expensive and i heard that its got closer ratio than the 240K?

I'm going to start collecting the parts for the swap as I organised someone to help me with the swap.

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I used a 280ZX 5speed... well, that's what the guy said it was from, but the gears are alot closer together than I remember my brother's 1979 280ZX being.

Any L-series 5speed should be a bolt on job, just make sure it's not a "shorty" box from an R30 6cyl L20A otherwise you'll fall short when you try connect the driveshaft back up. :)

If you can get a 5speed from a 240K, and it's cheaper, I'd probably just go with that and that way you can take all the other bits you need from the car if there's one at the wreckers. pedals, master and slave cylinder, clutch, flywheel. etc. be sure to grab the flywheel bolts too because they're longer than the flexplate bolts that you'll take off. and you'll have to get a crankshaft/spigot bush as well.. which is just a wee sleeve that slots into the end of the crankshaft that isnt there for autos P/N 32202-30000

Oh, and I had to get my brother to borrow a rattle-gun to get the freakin flexplate bolts off.. they were on pretty damn tight, short work for a rattle-gun but hard work on the arms when you're upside down under a car :)

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will it work if I mix and match?

like 240K gearbox, Z clutch , Z flywheel etc...?

or do I have to get the same parts

just the difficulty of getting all the parts from one car...

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Yeah, that shouldnt be a problem, just make sure your clutch pressure plate matches the width of surface area on the flywheel.. the ZX 2+2 has a bigger diameter, so to be extra certain you could just try make sure that you get the clutch and flywheel from the one car and just to be sure it fits try sliding the clutch plate onto the gearbox shaft, they should all fit, bt it would be horrible if you spent a few hours trying to line the bastard up only to find out it wasn't going in because the bloody thing didnt fit :)

This page is a bit clearer on the Flywheel situation :)

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

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which gearbox do you guys think I should get? just want opinion from everyone

car will be used for street/ weekend type of car

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The 240Z gearbox won't bolt straight up to the K; them gearboxes have an output flange as opposed to 240K/260Z input yoke type configuration.

If you get a 260Z 5 speed, the oil fill up bolt is on the right side of the gearbox when viewed from above, thats the only difference cosmetically anyway.

Good 2nd hand 5 speeds are hard to get, an easy bet would be a 240K 4 speed; tough as nails.

James

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how about the 280Z and ZX?

I saw a 240K 5 speed selling before for $385 i think thats a bargain but didnt have enough money then...

also heard that the Z's got closer ratio than the K boxes

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