LeonV

That's what I said!

Are you saying that you added positive camber? If you look where the PO of that Z drilled the new holes, they are located further outboard thus introducing more positive camber. This is what I was referring to. I think what you mean is that you slotted the strut towers to gain more negative camber. What the PO did to that car makes no sense performance-wise.

Looks like the PO was dialing out negative camber in the front, for whatever reason. Usually the front needs more negative camber, at least as far as performance is concerned. I'd set it with the most negative camber you can get (strut top pointing inwards) and then get it aligned.

You're now on the home stretch! Your next rear suspension rebuild will go a lot smoother...

Tokico springs for the 280Z are stiffer and non-progressive. John Coffey has a guide on HybridZ on making them work on a 240Z (cutting).

Yes, if coil spacing is unequal when they're unloaded.

BTW, I'll be selling brand-new 240Z Illuminas that I don't have a use for pretty soon... EDIT: Just saw your recent post. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you like the HPs and they're not blown, I don't see a need to replace them (unless you really want adjustability).

Damn, if only that engine/trans combo made it into production! A factory L24 with triples, 10.5:1 compression, and 175 "BHP" at 6800RPM paired with a close-ratio 5-speed would've been awesome, to say the least...

You don't cut the strut tube to change out inserts. All that's done is the gland nut is removed and a new insert dropped in. The only time a strut housing is cut, is when sectioning to gain bump travel with coilovers. EDIT: It's all in the FSM, FA section.

Why would your struts be sectioned? Do you have coilovers?

Yoshi, That's exactly how it's done, have at it!

Measure at the butterfly end, if the number isn't casted in on the bodies somewhere. I haven't tested them myself, but the mesh filters aren't recommended. They are restrictive, at least more so than the bigger K&N-style ones. Again, how restrictive, I don't know.

Last Saturday, saw a clean red 240Z in the Napa parking lot in San Bruno. Had a ZONC sticker as well. Apparently, I just missed the owner since I saw him taking off as I was about to pull out of my spot.

It's more likely to be M10 studs with M10 deformed nuts. Otherwise, they wouldn't clamp much of anything!

Cylinder head bolts are M10, intake/exhaust manifold threads are M8.

Get a Tee banjo fitting to run the fuel line back from the rear carb to the fuel rail.

That's Mark Rolston's RB26 Z. He now has a wilder, more awesome build going on at HybridZ.

I've got the exact ones in the Princess Auto link and have used them for all suspension coil spring work on my Zs.

Wow, great detail-oriented work there! Looks like it's shaping up to be a very nice Z when it's "finished".

Check that your nozzles move smoothly. Sounds like it could also be a large vacuum leak. Is there an unplugged hole in your balance tube?

Not a problem! Seems like Keith is one-upping himself with the e-tubes. Looks like he's close to developing a newer, better version. The next tuning day could be a great chance to check it out.

My 260Z tach had the same issue (although it's a bit different than a 240Z tach). Replacement made it all better.

Nice! I'd be down to go again.

I used ATF, should make removing them much easier for the next time that happens.

Welcome to the nitty-gritty of a rear-suspension rebuild! Glad you got the issues sorted. I struggled with LCA bushings as well, got tired of pounding and took it over to my neighbor who has air tools. A few minutes with a die grinder and they were out! Once you've replaced the outer LCA bushings and put the pin in, you'll be in the home stretch. Good luck!