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JEFF

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Everything posted by JEFF

  1. They are in every autoparts,Kmart,Miejer,Hardware,Wallmart, Hell they may be in Border's Books. That's where I see them in Detroit area. I've seen them as low as $18 & as high as $ 23. I've never used them BUT..... sounds like i'm missing out on a good thing, I'll try some. - Jeff
  2. Zvoiture - The N47 'smog liners' are cast into the head. They go from the exit to 1/8" from the valve seat. I used a 3/8" Ball end carbide bur bit, (not a ballnose) with a 3/16" shank. I tilted the head on a hand crank sine table.With the spindle on the mill running at 18,000 rpm and light cuts tilting the head as needed to get all that I could. I ended up flipping the head over (comb. cham. up) to get the rest out. I used a dremel with a sanding roll to smooth out the cutter marks by hand. I now have a small groove in the casting where the liners used to be. All in all the job looks great. Why did I do this to a N47 ???? Because it is the only L28 head that I have, & wanted to put the F.I. on my L24 block. Did it help the flow of the N47 ??? I am ashamed to say that I did not perform a 'before' test...... - Jeff
  3. JEFF replied to SHOTIME's topic in Body & Paint
    Zvoiture - seems as though you are missing a few bumpers...... - Jeff
  4. I only had the two heads to compare. I was just happy to have 23% than I had before. 2Many - Why the E-31.... With L-28 valves. Are the port angles the key improvments on the E31? - Jeff
  5. I am using a N47 ( round port ) with the steel liners removed. It flowed 23% more air through the exhaust ports than the E88 that I had on before this one. Bench flow tested at Diemler/Chrysler Tech Center in Auburn Hills Michagan. Helps to know someone......:classic:
  6. JEFF replied to SHOTIME's topic in Body & Paint
    I think the 240Z's look good with or without the front bumper. I dented my 240 front bumper 7-8 years ago. I cut the center section out and rolled the ends in at each side of the hood .... Kinda made '73 Camaro 'split' bumpers....... looked like sh*t. I liked it with out though after I had the side mounting areas filled flush with the fender. - Jeff
  7. " Opinions??? " WOW - That car looks great! Do what ever you want .... BUT do not scratch it! Nice car toecutter. - Jeff
  8. If you leave the thermostat out it may very well solve your over heating problem...... BUT it will be hiding the underlying problem. Your car should not be overheating. Is you coolant new? Is it mixed 50/50?And is it full? Is your fan belt adjusted properly? When your belt is at the right tension you should be able to flex the belt between the crank pully and the alternator about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch by hand. Does your fan clutch work properly? Does your water pump drip coolant out the weep hole at the bottom of it? If it "weeps" replace it. If all of those things are correct then your cooling system may need a good cleaning. Most/all good autoparts stores will have a do-it-yourself kit to clean your system. It should be the kind made to "ungunk" the cooling passages. - Jeff
  9. Using a dead blow hammer worked well for me after I did the "2ManyZs" trick. - Jeff
  10. JEFF replied to hmsports's topic in Racing
    Good one,Good one.......Got me back! -Jeff
  11. JEFF replied to hmsports's topic in Racing
    M.O.P.A.R. - mostly old parts and rust On a quite night you can here a Mopar rust. 2Manyz - just dog'n mopars 'cause I think those are funny ( old but still funny) - Jeff
  12. JEFF replied to mdbrandy's topic in Interior
    Mine has webbing and springs (I think) I recovered the seats 5 years ago. It's in my Dad's body shop right now for paint or I'd go and look. - Jeff
  13. JEFF replied to mdbrandy's topic in Interior
    My '72 ( built in 10/'71) has a lever to recline / tilt forward . I think they are original seats as the car was in unrestored condition when I bought it. - Jeff
  14. JEFF replied to 2ManyZs's topic in Funnybone
  15. Electrionic ignition from a '76 or newer with a high out put coil would allow you to open up your plug gap. BUT.... I think it would be better to adjust the carbs. - Jeff
  16. MDyer - That resistor is a noise suppressor for the radio. Internal VR types have that built in inside. You only need to ground it to the E terminal. - Jeff
  17. Water weights more than oil. - Jeff
  18. I can't say that I like the car , BUT , I do think they did a nice job of it. - Jeff
  19. Anyone?? - Jeff
  20. A couple of weeks ago some one posted a wiring diagram of both - The stock 240 Tach diagram & a ZX diagram for ZX electronic ignition swap. The diagram for the ZX showed how to hook up wires to make the 240Z Tach work again with the ZX ign. However... I installed a '78 280Z electronic ignition in my '72 240Z. Does anyone know how to hook the Tach up for that swap?? - Jeff
  21. Leave Him Alone And He'll Come Home... Eventualy - Jeff p.s. Been there came back.
  22. If the engine was not run for about 9 months and not 'oil fogged' - the problem is most likely stuck rings - A bimetalic corrosion happens to the 2nd compression ring (cast iron to aluminum) when they sit unmoving for a while(months). The same happens to the oil rings. This problem doesn't normaly happen to the top compression ring because it is a chrome ring. - Jeff
  23. JEFF replied to dero's topic in Open Chit Chat
    UNLESS...... The cam to crank timing is alittle off. The same would hold true - What i mean is that by holding a rag over the carbs you are putting enough gas into the cylinders to fire the engine even if the valves are opening early. If they are opening early the amount of vaccuum created by the pistons down travel would be reduced below normal(reducing compression) - thus the rag over the carbs would force the vaccuum that IS there to suck a little more gas than it would without the rags. If the valves are opening late the vaccuum is started before the valve opens, that makes a sudden large 'gulp' of intake when they do open. If they open late they also close late, letting some of the 'intake' out before the valves close( reducing compression).... thus the rags over the carbs would cause the intake of air/fuel to be richer and still fire even if some gets out early. A compression test will show you if it is a valve timing problem. Do the test twice - FIRST with normal cylinders and all plugs removed - SECOND - with about 2 squirts of oil from a pump can in the cylinders. If the compression goes up with the 2nd test the problem is not valve related. If the compression tests show the same readings the valves are the problem. Timing or leaking. *A leaking head gasket would show the same as leaking valves/valve timing off except that it would be in only 1 or 2 cylinders.* - Jeff
  24. Bingo! - Jeff
  25. OH ! I guess I didn't read it very close. - Jeff

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