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JEFF

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Everything posted by JEFF

  1. Check your local autoparts store ( murry's - Ramchargers - Pepboys etc.. ) They should have a universal fan kit for about $60 or $70. - Jeff
  2. I have the only '72 240Z that i've seen in the detroit area for about 6-7 years:cry:
  3. JEFF replied to MDyer's topic in Parts Swapping
    MDyer - See if you can remove the vinyl on the trans. tunnel & the door sills. I would like to have them. I can replace the padding on the back of the trans vinyl. - Jeff
  4. JEFF commented on DJPappe's gallery image in Wheels and Tires
  5. JEFF replied to JEFF's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Brett240 - Thanks, I did not know that the 280 rods were shorter. I will stay with what I have. - Jeff
  6. JEFF replied to MDyer's topic in Parts Swapping
    Cool - we should meet when my 240 is out of the paint booth in about another month. - Jeff
  7. JEFF replied to JEFF's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Brett240 - Is the bore length/depth the same on a 240 block as the 280 block? Why would I need the 280 rods in the 240 block? I do not expect ( when it is complete ) my 240 engine to be a slow revving motor as it has 280 fuel injection on it. The bore is .030 over now.:classic:
  8. Could I put a 280 crank in a 240 block with my flat top pistons and the 240 rods? Thats how you make a 'stroker motor' right? I have a 280 non-reground crank avalible. - Jeff
  9. Another way to tell which line is the return line with it out or in the car is to have about 3 - 4 gals of gas in it. Use an air nozzel from an aircompressor and blow gently in the holes - one will 'make bubbles' ( the pick-up tube ) one will not ( return tube ). - Jeff
  10. JEFF replied to MDyer's topic in Parts Swapping
    Where in OH are you - I am 40 miles west of Detroit.
  11. JEFF replied to MDyer's topic in Parts Swapping
    The trans will "plug and play" to your '77. I would like the '240Z' emblem on the rear hatch & all the other emblems if they are in very nice condition. The vinyl would be nice to have too. BTW i like that style of wheel too. - Jeff
  12. I would remove an area large enough to expose the flaked area plus a little. undercoat what is needed that way. If you are willing to do a Full strip then do so. That project is very messy and lengthy. Prepare to spend some time under there. ( wear safety glasses nomatter how sweaty your face gets ). POR15 is an exelent product - be sure to use it as manufacture recomends. 2 cents worth. - Jeff
  13. Boy!!! $1.58 would make my day! Detroit prices vary a bit - 87 octaine can be as high as $1.85 - And as low as $1.71. At 16 - 18 mpg in both my truck (mine) and my wife's van we are spending a little over $700.00 per month. - Jeff
  14. SHOTIME - Check in Hemmings Motor News - There are a lot of scrap yards located in south west U.S. I have mail ordered many parts from some of them & have never had a bad/ugly/wornout/or broken part come from them. The prices were what i thought to be cheep. I would think that you should be able to get a tank for about the same or less than the fuel cell you mentioned. My thought is buy a tank. - Jeff
  15. Exelent - I have that picture saved in my 'backgrounds' library - it makes it cycle through about every 3 weeks ( i change them daily ) - Jeff
  16. I like the bumper style - but not the lights. ( red car ) Gav240z - Is that blue car yours? I realy like the color & looking for something close if not that color. Do you know what that color is? Thanks, Jeff
  17. The oil pump is new & the pressure reads as it always has - high side of center on the guage at idle. - Jeff
  18. 2ManyZs - When I assembled the pistons/rings the gaps of the oil scraper rings were set 180 deg. apart, But probably not at 10 o'clock & 4 o'clock just that they were 180 deg. apart was what I thought was important. The 1st & 2nd compression rings were also set 180 deg. apart - starting at 90 deg. to the gaps on the oil scrapers. Compression is at 180 psi across all 6.(oil wet w/ all 6 plugs out.) When I get back over to the shop I am installing new valve seals - cross your fingers for me that I find something wrong with the seals on one or more of the front 3 cylinders. To pull the engine yet again would be faster than previously but STILL no fun! - Jeff
  19. Is it possible to install oil rings upside down? Or are the scrapers the same shape - topside and bottom side? I have not installed the new valve seals yet, but i keep thinking about other possibilities. When the engine(freshly honed & ringed ) is idling it smokes alot of oil smoke. When i shut it off it drips oil out of the open header. It only drips from the pipe that comes from the front 3 cylinders. Thats a lot of oil going through the combustion chambers don't you think?? Any thoughts on this?? - Jeff
  20. Sorry guys - I've had that link stored in a folder for some time now , intending to use it for my conversion. It does not work in my computer either now. -Jeff
  21. TexasZ - Try this site -- it's step by step. http://www.gfs1.com/racing/articles/brakes.html - Jeff
  22. Thankyou Royce! That looks like a good remedy! I'll try it when i get back over to my dads shop. - Jeff
  23. Your friend is partialy right. But try this first...... pull up on the bottom of the door enough to see if the lower hinge pin is loose in the hinge hole. If it is then the hinge pin needs to be replaced and the honge holes need to be rebushed,( new pin bushings ). The other alternative to doing that is to replace the hinge. I'm pretty sure if the back of the door needs to come up about an inch then there may be a larger problem. - Jeff
  24. Royce - my Z was built in 10 / '71 as a '72 model. the ashtray is behind the shifter. The 4 speed trans. I took out was from a '73. My car was originaly a automatic. The 4 speed is fine and it fit correctly. I bought a '78 parts car for the N47 head, electronic ignition and the fuel injection --- now all installed on my 240 block. The 5 speed was there so I took it out - last week when I honed and reringed my block I put the 5 speed in. The spot where the shift lever enters the trans. is differant than the '73. It is almost right under the front of the opening, then the lever goes back on about 45 deg. then straight up. The shifter will shift all 5 gears & reverse( rubs a little at the front-needs alittle clearance cut)) it's just not in the right place. I will get to mom & dads tomarrow to try the console over it to see if it works. If i do not have to modify the console to shift all the gears i'll leave it in to have that 5th gear. sound like the right thing to do? Thank you for your responses! Ps the link you gave me says the page has expired. - Jeff
  25. ZmeFly - your suggestion will work to put the shift lever in the center of the console opening without effecting the shifting action?? - Jeff

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