MakDiesel

It's mine so I can vouch for it. Would rather it go to someone on this board than anywhere else. Ebay Manual

Yeah I decided that stock is better than dual-blowout on the highway...now jus waiting for the stock springs...la la... anyway thanks guys. Mak

A previous owner apparently cut a coil or two off my 280zx's front springs to drop it down a few inches. While this looks good, it has been wearing the insides of my front tires at 10 times the normal rate of the outside! So I have 3/4 inch of tread on the outside and I'm down to the steel wires on the inside. Any help? I want to keep the ride height like it is but the camber MUST change. I've heard of shims, strut spacers, grinding slots in the strut towers, etc or I can jus revert back to stock and ride with the front jacked higher than the rear. I don't have the $$$ for quality lowering springs. Any suggestions on past experiences guys? Any help would be appreciated. Mack

OK, On my daily driver '81 280zx I recently removed just the belt to see what driving w/o power steering was like compared to my 240z. Turns out it turns better than the '72 240! It may be due to the reciculating ball vs. rack n' pinion or the 300lb + I've probably removed from the ZX but it was a pleasant surprise that only when turning sharply or at a standstill was two hands ever really needed. My question is, is the ease of steering due to hydraulic fluid still being churned when I manually turn and will I tell a notciable difference (easier or harder) in steering if I completely removed the pump/brackets/hoses/etc so rid of more excess weight. I dunno who out there has ever done this or would know whether I should leave or rid of the remaining pump attachments but any insight would be appreciated. I thought I might sell the pump/etc to save up for a Lexan windshield. Thanks, Mak

Lightening of my '81 280zx has gone from small things to hard-core stripped race car. I've removed the front bumper, entire A/C system, all carpet, jute, all interior plastic panels, and muffler. Now comes the power sterring. First, has anyone ever done this? Will it have the heavy feel of my old 240z? Is it worth the effort and weight savings, not to mention engine drag? Any insight would help. Thanks

Ok, not a true gut because i still drive this beast every day but I'll keep the dash (with major components within it intact) and both factory seats. Ive already dropped the front bumper and entire A/C components, so I was jus wondering (if anyone has ever weighed this stuff) how much more is dropped from removing all the plastic interior panels and carpet, jute, etc.? this is for a '81 280zx by the way.....a model that needs a diet more than most...

I've decided to quit trying to make my 280zx look pretty on the inside and just gut it except the seats and dash. Upon carpet removal I've noticed that the jute (as stated by most of you who have done this before) acts like a sponge and basically will rot your floorboards from the inside out. Sure enough, mine had very damp jute and rust to boot. My question is how to remove all of the tiny pieces of jute and carpet that seem to be attached to the metal by forces stronger than I. Also, the door panel plastic was held on by some kind of white and yellow sealant that is also as stubborn as cold carbs. Any cheap alternatives to just scrapping it off with a putty knife? Thanks, Mak

would that explain my poor gas mileage (20 tops on highway... and im not a lead foot most days) despite stripping the car of the front bumper, bumper shocks, air conditioning, and adding lightweight wheels?

The perpendicular branch of that 'T' is plugged with a golf tee (not my doing).....so that got me wondering, what DOES that hose do?

I own an '81 280zx that has been troubling me lately. I've done all the work on this car since the day I saved it from the junk yard but I've finally run into an irritating little thing I don't know how to fix. When it cranks, the tach will jump from 750 to 1200 in little jolts but after around 1500 rpms it's smooth sailing. My problem may be related to a discovery I found yesterday. The hose labled "DIST VC" (the top one) connected to the charcoal (aka carbon) canister isn't connected to anything...and I cannot find the connecting end for the life of me. The hose runs all the way around the valve cover directly behind the fan and radiator and ends approx. near the throttlebody, but I can't find where to plug it up. Any answers fellow Z'ers? I included quite possiblly the crudest 5-minute drawing known to man but it's effective. Thanks in advance

Dunno if this is your problem exactly but I've had similar 'issues' with my '81 280zx coupe. I could have power until i tried to crank her, I'd hear the pump but not even a click of the starter. turns out it was a $1.06 fusable link that was causing me so much frustration. See I was running an Audiotech 1800watt 'mean machine' powering one Audiobahn 12" sub and apparently the nearly 2k of extra eletricity melted the fusable link (closest to the front of the car) and thus disabled the alternator and battery charge delivery. So before you blow cash on a book, start small and check all your fuses, mainly the 'links' (pop the hood and the compartment will be on the passenger side wall of the engine bay, about a foot from the battery and behind the cruise control actuator (if you have one)....its jus a lil black box with a labeled cover....check the one marked "ACC") good luck and if it doesnt work, buy the book