AZ-240z

Arne, Zak, Thanks for your speedy replies. My car had been repainted maybe 20 years ago, and, as I wasn't into totally correct at that time, couldn't remember if these little machine screws had factory paint when new. Thanks, again, for helping to clarify this. Dan

Need some verification of originality trivia. The two inspection doors on the 240z are secured by 5MM machine screws. I believe the car came from the factory with these machine screws unpainted and in clear zinc or cad. and were mounted to the car after paint was applied to the doors. Can anyone with an unmolested 240z substantiate that these inspection door machine screws were unpainted? The same thing is true for the rear deck hatch, which is fastened to the hatch hinges with four unpainted flat head phillips machine screws, since the hatch was painted separately and assembled to the car after the finish was applied. Thanks for checking. Dan Original Owner/hls30-20419

I don't want to muddy the waters with what I can remember, but, I, along with geezer, think that at least part of the horns were a dark army green. If you look at the seat fore and aft adjust rod below the seat cushion, it should be that same green color, and I think that the turn signal stalk was also originally the same green. Someone has to have an unrestored horn to confirm the color. Dan

Moonpup, I suggest you re-read Carl's post #25. No one is asking you to understand the attraction many have with cars that have developmental parts incorporated in early examples first offered to the public, and the value attributed to their uniqueness. Just understand the fact that this attraction does exist, in not only collectors, but in those of us who strive to strive for total originality in our early cars. Mine is not early, but one of the very last series 1 cars. Seems to me that I saw the last production number 1967 Corvette auctioned at Barrett-Jackson last year for a premium price because it was the last of the Stingray line. I am afraid that I, too, am aflicted with this attraction, and have been known to buy over-valued parts for my car, just because that was original in March, 1971 when it was first registered. Dan

If it is any help, Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, lists the links in there on-line catalogue under the title, Customer requests, item #E-28 for 1970-1973 240z for $5.00 each. I have used these from Banzai and they work perfectly, and they would know the amp ratings for different years I am quite sure. Dan

I am afraid that my more conservative view of color schemes may not be your cup of tea, but I thought I would chime in, anyway. One of my favorites is the ghost racing stripes. At first glance, you know that something is different, and upon closer examination the stripes just pop. My suggestion would be the 350Z orange, or yellow, and incorporate ghost stripes to possibly compliment the interior color scheme. Very subtle, but more modern and enduring, instead of bling that you may tire of sooner. Mustange has done this, and I think it is a technique that compliments it's timeless styling without being distacting. Just my 2 cents. Dan Dan

I, too, had talked to Mike at Banzai and was told that the one piece is correct for the earliest cars. My car is a 1/71 series 1 and it was delivered new with the one piece, along with all the other typical series 1 parts. This is one of those gray parts differences, kind of like the two phillips screws with clear plastic finisher washers that were used on very early (ie, 1969 - early 1970) cars to help to fasten the lower edge of the interior door trims panels. I have, since, found many original pictures one ebay confirming that those screws did exist, just don't know through what vin #. E, your knowledge is an invaluable resource to me on this site, and it will be interesting to see if we can pin down the correct vin # range for this weatherstrip. Dan

E, I was always under the impression that the one piece outer hatch weatherstrip is correct for the series 1 cars. Mine has been replaced, many years ago, but I am certain that, when new, my car had the tubular cross section one piece weatherstrip. Banzai sells this one piece in reproduction form for the early cars. Dan

Ron, There are very few things more gratifying than doing something nice for your Z. Nice job, and I know how you feel. Bought hls30-20419 probably a month after you bought your and still restoring. Dan

I would like to say that I am very surprised, and, then again, I am not surprised that this car didn't sell for it's $35,000 "Buy It Now" price. I think that we did get a rare glimse of a seriously collectible 240z that would be offered to serious and capable collectors of fine automobiles. It is my opinion that most of the collectible 240z cars of this superior quality exchange ownership far from the public view so we really do not have a grasp of what comparable pricing would be. I also think that the vagaries of public auctions like ebay are a detraction for most serious collectors who would rather not sell or buy in such an uncertain environment. They do not necessarily seek the bargain price that is the mindset of most ebayers, but will find and pay for the best, and rarest of a particular breed. I think that this was a rare opportunity to own your dream car, not instant equity if you are investing, but a car that will surely pay dividends in enjoyment of ownership and return every dollar should you want to sell in the future. If I had the ability, I would have bought this car in less than a heartbeat, but I would like to qualify my emotional response to the fact that I really don't know what may be better and available someday. Just my opinion. Dan Original Owner hls30-20419

VZ references the Vintage Z Program in the late 1990s when Nissan North American outsources the remanufacture of approximately 41 240z cars to several southern California shops. These cars were to be sold at 10 U.S. dealerships starting at around $25,000 and, I believe, it was a promotional program for the eventual successor, the 350Z. There is much to read if you do a search function for "vintage z program". Dan

Hello mikewags, Just to shed a ray of hope on this, you may just be looking at just taking off the door panel and making some adjustments to the regulators position within the door panel. With my limited experience with these, I have found that, unless the regulator is bent, or the plastic rollers are totally worn out, the regulator can, over time, get knocked or jarred out of postion causing the window to bind in various positions. If you have a factory service manual (Datsun, Haynes, etc.) it should describe pretty well what machine screws need to be readjusted and the degree of adjustment available. There is a lot of trial and error, but eventually you should be able to get it to work properly. I would recommending doing this first before going to the trouble and expense of replacement. Also, try to clean the regulator, as well as you can access, the dry, hardened, dirty grease from the regulator runs and replace with something like white lithium grease. I am sure others here may have additional experience with this, but this has worked for me. Hope this helps, and good luck. Dan

Do a search on "changing differential oil" and you will find out what others have done. Hope this helps. Dan

Hello Kurt, From the info I could find when I researched buying some of those Courtesy US spec springs, I think the following is correct for the Euro Spec Stage 1 springs: Right Front Euro spec stage 1 ------------ Green/Blue Left Front Euro spec stage 1 ----------- Orange/Blue Both Rear Euro spec stage 1 ----------- 2 yellow Hope this is correct and helps. Dan

Hello E, I took my luggage straps to the local shoe repair shop, asked him for some liquid Kiwi shoe polish, and he said that was not a good choice. He recommended a small can of Meltonian Suede Renew coloring spray which says it won't rub off. Well, he talked me into it, I took it home and lightly sprayed the straps. The color is good with no shine, and dried quickly. I waited a day, then took a clean white cotton rag and buffed a light residue of the coloring agent off, even though the label say it will not rub off. Straps look good and natural, I'm pleased with the results, and just thought I would pass on this experience to anyone interested. Dan

Thanks, E, I'll give that a little experimentation. My set of luggage straps has had all of the hardware newly clear zinc plated, so the straps need to look equally as good. Dan

I know we are talking about carpet, but has anyone had any experiences or good results using these or other products to dye seatbelts and luggage straps? Thanks. Dan

Mat, Ours cars are probably twins. My car is hls30-20419 and color 918, also with the flip release seat belt buckles. Series 1 cars, with all of the correct characteristics, were manuf. through the middle of 1/71. On Carl Beck's site, the last series 1 car that he has found is hls30-20438. Mat, not to hijack this thread, but does your glove box have the key code decal inside the lid, and is it filled out? Do you have the original keys? Dan

I have heard this same figure from science community notables, sorry I can't remember specific names, who seemed credible at the time. The interesting thing about this figure is, it apparently is the same rate of consumption of oil America experienced some 30 years ago. This must, if true, speaks pretty loudly to the progress this country has made in energy conservation as I do think our economy has grown a little in the past 30 years. Dan

I couldn't agree more with 26th-Z. I read this initial post and was very tempted to make the same reply as Chris, but, unfortunately, in this so highly propogandized society, populated with media talking heads, all with specific agendas, the task of being as convincing as 26th-Z, suddenly seemed far to daunting a task for me. I almost feel as if I need a PHD in communications skills to filter through all of the current mis-information we are currently being inundated with, especially in an election year, but I hope we don't go there as that analogy was offered only for emphasis. I respect everyones opinion, and this is mine. Dan

I agree with Ron, they have the black oxide finish, just like the four oval head, countersunk machine screws that fasten the heater control panel to the dash. Just as a point of interest that I have noticed, the four screws that fasten the front edge of the cowl panel are, also, black oxide oval phillips head self tapping screws. I often see these replaced on cars by chrome or clear zinc screws that have heads that are also too small. Dan

I agree with Ron, they have the black oxide finish, just like the four oval head, countersunk machine screws that fasten the heater control panel to the dash. Just as a point of interest that I have noticed, the four screws that fasten the front edge of the cowl panel are, also, black oxide oval phillips head self tapping screws. I often see these replaced on cars by chrome or clear zinc screws that have heads that are also too small. Dan

Mike, the problem with having one of the very last series 1 cars is, it is assumed that any car built after 12/70 is automatically catagorized in the next series. This also applies when looking for correct parts in the parts CD, which stops at 12/70 for all series 1 parts. Yes, my car has all of the characteristic parts of series 1 cars. I have no answer as to why the late change over with the riser trim well into the series 2 production. It may have been needed time to tool a new part upon the realization that the relocated storage bins created a problem which couldn't be covered up with more flat black paint. Now-------, about those black plastic storage bin covers on series 1 cars. I need a nice, uncracked one for the passenger side that covers the jack. Sorry, just had to throw that in. I am now going to go stand in the corner. Dan

Arne, Your car is fantastic! Enjoy!!!! Dan

Mike, as always, you described the differences perfectly as I struggled to make a coherent statement of comparison in my post above. One thing I am 100% certain of though, is the short or equal length sided trim was on my 1/71 series 1 car and the carpet did go up the luggage riser and under this trim piece holding the carpet securely in place. As for later cars, my assumption had always been, since the carpet did not go up the luggage riser, the wider trim was used to cover the underlying painted luggage riser. No first hand knowledge, just an assumption on the latter point. Dan