psdenno

You have the car and it runs, so you weren't "totally scammed". Keep in mind that you bought a car that's 12 years older than you are. It's going to have some issues. What you're learning from this purchase is that you need to really go over a car thoroughly before buying it and not expect the seller to disclose all of the defects. It's a learning process. Now that you have it, keep learning about it. Drive and enjoy it. The Z is a great car and almost anything can be fixed or replaced. Dennis

If you put the new seal on like the old seal was installed, it's probably a matter of just letting it acclimate and compress. Door seals do the same thing and letting the car sit in the sun with the seal compressed will generally help it form into place. Dennis

Casting shame on the people you're contacting for help is probably not the best approach. However, you're entitled to your opinion. I've always found this group to be very responsive and helpful - perhaps it's how one asks. Dennis

It appears that you've answered your own questions - nice job! Now, you just need to decide which rack you want based on your expectations and how you plan to use your Z. Life should always be so easy. ) Dennis

OK, I'll bite - draw it. ) Dennis

Any licensing conflict in printing the "Bob Sharp Racing" logo for resale? Dennis

Welcome to the group! The good news is that you live just minutes away from a great source for Z parts and accessories in Orange. Keep us posted as you go through the Z learning curve. Dennis

Looks like a low pressure Facet brand aftermarket pump. I have one sitting in my tool chest since about 1980. Dennis

Thirty-eight years without a flat tire may be some sort of a record! Some of the newer cars, like the Mini, no longer have a spare. I guess road hazards are fewer and tires are better. BTW, I still have my original spare, but it's been on the road. Dennis

Isn't that a picture of the little girl who went blind because she always sat too close to the TV, even though her parents warned her not to do so? Dennis

Very nice! I like to see the old press kits and brochures. Dennis

Did that a couple months ago. On June 14th he said that he'd pull a seat and take some pictures of the mounting set-up when he had time. I look forward to seeing the pictures when he has the time. Dennis

Have you checked prices at a local muffler shop? Dennis

When I got my 15" Rewinds from MSA a couple years ago, they included a set of extended center caps and "Z" emblems to replace the standard caps that don't easily fit on the front wheels. Did they mention if they still do that? Dennis

I have to agree with everyone else. You liked the car before you discovered what engine it had - keep liking it. Had you not looked at the numbers, you wouldn't have known the difference. After all, it's a Z! Live the sports car life - just don't let anyone analyze your engine block number ). Dennis

No problem. Let us know how it turns out. Dennis

I guess that explains part of the hourly rate they charge to work on Nissan cars. I'm glad I have an early Z - all I need is a metric crescent wrench, two screw drivers, and a hammer to keep it running Dennis

I think I'd take another look - those holes weren't "self healing". There has to be evidence like Bondo squeezed through. Even if excess was wiped off on the underside of the hatch panel and painted over, you should be able to see something. Since my emblems are off, here are some measurements to the holes. Datsun: 1st hole on left 8 7/8" down from rear window seal, 10 3/8" from right edge of hatch 2nd hole: 7" down from window seal, 6 11/16" from rt edge of hatch 3rd hole: 5 7/8" down from window seal, 3 3/4" from edge of hatch 240Z: 1st hole: 8" down from window seal, 5 7/8" from rt edge of hatch 2nd hole: 8" down from window seal (seal starts to curve up at this point, so scribe a horizontal line along bottom of seal, 2" from rt edge of hatch Hope this helps, good luck! Dennis

I looked through my files and tool box, but can't lay hands on the owner's manual right now - it's here somewhere. However, I did find the file with my warranty book and a copy of the 2-1-72 Interpart catalog. I was surprised to see that the BRE Spook came in a choice of five colors for $38.50. I'll keep searching for the Owner's Manual. Dennis

My 4/71 has the Summer/Winter switch - bought it new, so I know it came that way. Dennis

Looks like a few other links off the main site menu bar also result in Page Not Found. At least the main site is up and displaying. Dennis

Good pointers! Thanks! Next I have to see about how to bolt the steel runners to the seat frame without having to deconstruct the seat & upholstery. Thanks, again. Dennis

At the expense of NOT sounding stupid, I did bother to look at the appropriate links via the search function. As most of us know, "Search" is our friend. However, Search is effective only when there is something posted for which to search. I did not intend for this to become a total pissing contest. Perhaps responses are more appropriately made by PM. Dennis

I guess my frustration is that most posts on swapping seats are "look what I can do" and lack the "look at how I did it" part. I'm sure there are countless seats that could be shoe horned into a Z, but it's the degree of difficulty that intrigues me - especially with the BMW seats I plan to put in mine. I'm sure it will all work out. Dennis

That's a very good idea and it could be easily reversed - sounds like a perfect solution. I was considering mounting a switch on the plexiglass panel I put in place of the ashtray below the radio. Since I never used the ashtray or lighter, I put them in a box in about 1972. Then, I cut a piece of 1/4 inch plexi to fill the spot. I mounted a vacuum gauge and aircraft volt meter on that panel. A spring loaded toggle switch would work nicely. Now, to work out the faceplate issue. Dennis