psdenno

The seat interchange threads I've read say the BMW seats fit well, but they don't detail the steps for installation - sort of a key missing piece. :stupid: What's nice about the BMW seats is that they are narrow and Recaro - lots of adjustments, recline, thigh support adjusts out, supportive. Look for BMW 318 or 325 seats on ebay or your local Pick-A-Part. Dennis

The point of my post was that I was amused by the irony of a Z owner wanting BMW seats in a Z and a BMW owner considering Z seats for his Bimmer. The grass always appears greener on the other side of the street. Will and I have communicated on how to adapt the seats and I've seen them in a Z - so it can be done. Adapting Z rails is the magic part as even the manual BMW seats sit too high on their own rails. I'm sure it will all work out, eventually. Dennis

I'm currently trying to figure out how to mount a set of BMW seats in my Z as a relatively inexpensive upgrade. So, I did a Google search that linked to a BMW 2002 forum message thread that started with this message: "From: jeckel30 in SLC Subject: Anyone Use Datsun Seats? I have been looking around for seats that won't break the bank. I have found a pretty good set of Datsun seats from an old 240z. Does anyone have any of these types of seats in their 02? I am not opposed to fabbing up seat mounts, as I just want something that looks good and is comfortable. I have been searching for a while and I am not really wanting to pay exhorbant prices for Recaro's on ebay." Not that that post helped me with my issue, but it's nice to know that there really is balance in the universe. Dennis

That's what I did years ago when I upgraded the radio on my '63 Avanti, rather than hack the original face plate. I did a marginal job, but it serves the purpose. I also upgraded with the automatic antenna as Arne mentioned above. I think I'll keep looking for a "cleaner" faceplate solution for the Z. Dennis

The difficult part is the faceplate - fitting their universal plate so it allows use of the antenna switch is what keeps me from jumping in. Hacking my original face plate is not a viable/reversible option. Dennis

Only if you strive for originality and restoring your Z to the condition it was in when it came off the boat. There will be those who will say it adds to the value when it comes time to sell. Otherwise, it will be just as much fun. It all depends on your intentions with the car. Dennis

If you haven't already, you may want to check that the crank pulley is torqued down properly. Years ago, before I converted from the York to the newer system, my crank pulley just fell off as I was driving. Imagine my surprise 60 miles from home at 7:00 AM. Dennis

I pulled my '71 out of 15 years of storage a couple years ago. I replaced the tires, all fluids, all belts and hoses, clutch cylinder, rear brake cylinders, and front brake calipers. Two years later, and a few more bits & pieces, and I'm still motoring along. Welcome to the Group. The 1971 Z is a great car. I'm sure you'll have fun with your Z. Dennis

I just did a Google (yes, I know you said "beside google") search for "Datsun 240Z parts" and got over 61,000 links. The first two, MSA and Black Dragon have good catalog options (on-line, on CD, and good old paper & ink) that can get you most of what you might need. I didn't take the time to check the other 60,998 links. I'll leave that to you. When you check the car in person and determine what you really need, a search (yes, I know you said "beside the search button") by key word on this forum will bring tons of information. That's part of the charm of belonging to a Z forum - a huge support group and almost endless info on key topics are just a click away. Trust me, have I lied to you, yet? I have a sense that you've already made up your mind about what to do. Keep us posted on the progress. Dennis

I can see that you're already developed an emotional attachment to this Z. I think you should see the car in person, do a very close inspection for overall condition and rust, go back home, and price out parts and labor to get the car to the condition you want. Then, make an offer based on those costs. If you point out to the buyer what it will cost to revive, you'll have a strong bargaining point. Most of the metal that rusts on a Z is available in the aftermarket as "patch" panels. If you have access to a body shop, and know how to use it, that will lower repair costs. As it sits, I don't feel that it's a $4K car. Obviously it's been sitting for years, so you shouldn't have to worry about other potential buyers outbidding you. The old saying, "act in haste, repent at leisure" comes to mind. Dennis

432 Cubic Inches! I imagine that the Beach Boys are working on a sequel to "She's real fine my 409" - titled "I'll Make Do With My 432". Giddy up giddy up 432! Dennis

Please excuse my generalization about cars from Florida. It's probably based on cars I've seen from the Keys and the Atlantic coastal area and not the Gulf Coast. Dennis

Well said! I'll think I'll print your quote, laminate it, and carry it in my wallet as an antidote for my occasional instances of "Car Fever". It's a live and learn world. Dennis

All things being equal - and they're not - I'd probably keep looking. It was in Florida humidity for years and is now in Wisconsin, land of salted roads, where cars go to return to nature. Other than spending the last 38 years on Okinawa, there are probably not more hostile rust causing environments for a Z than where it's been. The license plates look like they expired in 2006, so I wonder how roadworthy. As others have said, it all depends on how big a project you want to take on and how big your budget is. Anything can be rebuilt, as I know from owning my '71 since new. Dennis

Sliding the fuse box through that small console opening can cause a few exciting sparks if the battery is still connected - don't ask me how I know :stupid: Dennis

I'm not sure how my $1.98 "plastic lawn furniture" paint will hold up, but with a couple coats it had a very acceptable finish. Thanks for the "Wow!!!".

Totally smooth as if it had been pressed on in one stroke with a paint pad. I used a sharp point, not the wedge point, Sharpie and held it horizontal to the ridge being highlighted. Then it was just a matter of lightly dragging the side of the point along the ridge. I paint model cars about as well as a five year old, so I didn't want to use a color source that could run, drip, or leave brush marks. I think the Sharpie cost about $2.50 at the local craft store. I'm sure they are also available at places like Staples, Office Max, or Walmart. Dennis

It turned out to be easier than I anticipated. Using the Sharpie for the silver trim works best if you do the inner boxes around the choke handle first and the raised outer edge of the entire panel last. Dennis

I recently pulled the shift lever on my '71 240Z to replace bushings. While the console was out, I decided to clean it up and repair stress cracks and 38 years of abuse. I got a new vinyl shift boot from MSA and reupholstered the hinged arm rest that I had installed in about 1972. I fiberglassed the underside of the console below stress cracks that were visible on the top side. Next, I filled the surface cracks with two part epoxy putty. I brushed away excess putty with a tooth brush so it wouldn't fill the grained surface. I tried a couple brands of paint before finding one that had the correct satin finish - $1.98 at True Value Hardware. The $8 a can name brand I tried first just wasn't right. Finally, I scrubbed the panel that holds the rear window defogger switch and surrounds the choke cable handle. The silver edging on the panel was long gone and I knew I'd have a difficult time trying to paint it. Instead of paint, I used a silver Sharpie pen. By dragging the edge of the pen along the raised areas of the panel, the silver highlight was easily restored. Pictures can be seen at : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=177 Dennis

"How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" is a good start. The Haynes manual for the 240Z is also a good book to have near by as you start your project. Keep us updated! Dennis

Did we rule out the steering rack bushings? Dennis

As was mentioned, it depends on what you start with. I bought my Z new in 1971, drove it for about 12 years as primary transportation, let it become a seldom used car, and finally stored it for 15 years. When I brought it out of storage, I poured about twice what it cost new into making it roadworthy, and have driven it for only the price of gas for the last two years. Could I/Will I spend more? Certainly. But, for now, it offers great driving pleasure at far less expense than the late model family Audi. Dennis

I had a similar surprise with the floor of my '71. A couple years ago, when I was bringing it back to life after a 15 year snooze, my mechanic had it up on a lift and pointed out the huge dent under the passenger seat. Seems that at some point since 1971 a jerk with a floor jack had decided the floor pan was a lift point. I let it go and consider it to be patina. Dennis

Looks like quite a project! It can only get better from where you're at with it now. Keep us posted. Dennis

If it makes you feel any better, the dealership in Rancho Mirage, CA that services my Audi charges $135 an hour. Six miles from there my 240Z mechanic charges $65 an hour. Shop around. There are good mechanics at reasonable prices. Do it yourself - learn a skill and celebrate by buying beer for your friends with the $100 you save. A Win/Win situation. Dennis