Diseazd

Interesting.....Is the 1 the front and the 2 the rear?

Send your rockers to Delta Cams to be reconditioned like new......$4.00 each. Not sure where to buy lash pads, but you'll need to geometry the cam (center the wipe patterns). Isky sells .175 lash pads which should get you centered, but I find they can vary between .160 and .180's depending on the the head shop getting valve stem height even. Remember.....if you're using the E31 head with the Stage III Isky cam, you'll need the short valve seals mentioned earlier. Isky will take about 2 weeks to get the cam back to you. Finally, you will need to get a set of Isky valve springs to handle the .490 lift cam.

I sense a new fire.............careful Steve... h.p. is more addictive than ohms and volts.

.......and while you're at it, how about an E31 or early E88. Use your existing head for a boat anchor in Lake Lanier! LOLLOLLOL

Great to see you doing something that ain't measured in volts Steve. When you go back together, install a set of Ztherapy round tops and it'll put a big smile on your face! :ogre:

Good point Steve......Felpro makes a short valve seal that I use on my E31 head with the .490 lift Isky Stage III cam. It is supposed to handle up to .500 inch lift. Improved L6 Valve Stem Seals - L-Series - HybridZ You can use the stock valve seals on an .080 inch shaved P79 or P90 head because the valve springs are shimmed up .080 inches with the longer early L28 valves when you use the Isky Stage III (.490 lift) cam though.

I have the Isky Stage III in all of my Z's. It's a really nice regrind......good duration....no ping, but I run the P79 heads. When you install a regrind, install new rockers (IMO) and you'll have to geometry the cam ( wipe patterns centered with the correct lash pads). If you run flat top L28 pistons (P79), your compression ratio may be high enough to ping with the early E31.......not sure about that, but if you over bore, it'll be even more of a potential problem. The Isky Stage III makes nice power for me......I love it and Isky is great to work with. Sounds really nice at idle too.....that's important.

........I always use distilled water with anti freeze......no minerals and metals to feed electrolysis.

Use the early E88 head, install L28 valves and seats, then bore it out .040 inches, use an Isky Stage III cam and you should pick up 15 h.p. or even more.

Nice transition Zedy! Love to see things done right. The Datsuns sure look awesome side by side.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html Can't get any more specific than this.....plan on spending $4,500.00..

I agree with Jeff.....Many have ping problems with the N42/N47....."0" problems with the modern chambered P79/P90 head.....even when running as high as 10:1 CR......but, it does cost more to mod up the P79/P90.

Wow.....Looks like you sourced a really nice series I. Glad you're back Hardway!

Ditto that Steve! Are you sure you heard Dave right? Just by the fact that the head is shaved, assures you that you've got head gasket clearance at the least. My guess is he'd rather not go to the trouble to measure, shave .080 inches, then shim the springs and towers if he could avoid it by using the N42 head. Many, many people are using the stock and shaved P90 and P79 heads. I'm running four right now......absolutely love the combo.....no ping at any RPM either.

No Blue.....I've owned this car for 20 years. A low mileage 1990 300ZX in silver. A really nice car. Just toying with the idea of adding a little zip.....and I know nothing about working on fuel injection cars.

Thanks Jim for the lead.......

Anyone know a specialty shop to mod up a normally aspirated 1990 300ZX on the East Coast? Something like a Stillen, but on this side of the country.

Thanks for posting the pics Sean. Your car looks great. Nice seeing Mike McGinnis (Banzai Motorworks), Eiji (Datsun Spirit), Peter, you, Beth and others from Classic Z. Nice seeing Eiji's new girlfriend Janine too.....Germany and Japan reunited. Another great East Coast show.

Stupid question......Oil in the carbs? 3 in One or a light 20 weight. Also make sure you're nozzles aren't stuck in the open position after choking the engine....put your hands directly under each carb and push up on the nozzle.

Install the Ron Tyler Mount......you may have to modify it for the early converted cars, but it works like a charm.

Thanks Stanley.....I ran the hoses through the firewall and plugged 'em inside with hard plastic plugs. At least it looks like it's hooked up when looking in the engine bay.

Thanks Jim.......I've got a brand new valve, but the screws holding the old valve just won't come out. I don't really need heat, so if it's the same effect as shutting off the valve, I'm happy to keep 'em plugged.

My heater valve on my 71 was so bad that I plugged each of the 2 hoses that go through the fire wall (I don't need heat in Virginia). My question is..... Is blocking them off OK or should I connect the two with a tube so the water continues through the hoses and back into the engine? Is it better one way or the other as far as engine cooling is concerned?

Jeff.....Where did you get your numbers to do the P79 conversion you did. Was this something that was proven engineering or did you do this on your own using trial and error. Why don't you do a thread with your numbers....I know you have photos. How much did you shave off and why? Etc. Etc.

Make sure the choke linkage isn't stuck under each carb. Reach under each carb and push each nozzle upward. A stuck choke makes for a miserable idle and is fairly common in the Hitachi carbs. If one or both are stuck, your plugs should be black.