Diseazd

FYI.....I just got detailed pics of the 240Z for sale. I wasn't impressed. The paint work wasn't good, the seats were recovered with leather ( a negative), under the hood was a poor gray color, inspection plate under the hood was riveted on the wrong side,and it would need a full new strip and paint to be nice. It's not a series one. The positives are the dash is nice and there appears to be little if any rust, however who knows, it could be covered up. The engine looks to be all original but shows it's wear. This car would require a lot of work to make it nice. My impression was the car was worth $8,000.00 to $10,000.00. IMO

Has anyone used the Valvoline GL-5 -- what have the results been for you so far? THANKS! > Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:56:55 -0400 > From: ValvTechLine@ashland.com > To: 1969buickGS > Subject: Re: GL-4 and GL-5 manual transmission lubricants The Valvoline Gear Oils can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The real concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil. You can not use an active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers and differentials without causing any type of corrosion to yellow metals. ---------------------------- Another post from Valvoline on the subject.......looks like Valvoline Limited Slip High Performance 75-90 gear oil is fine for yellow metals. It's approved for GL4 or GL5 apps.

I was looking through a Jeep forum and found a thread on where to buy GL-4 and a poster mentioned that he contacted valvoline about it. he said: "I called Valvoline regarding this. They indicated that the problem with some GL-5 is activated sulfates. They indicated that they do not use activated sulfates and their GL-5 is safe for yellow metal... " **---->> confirmed from another forum source: "Apparently activated sulfate (used in some GL5 lubes) can eat brass synchros. Valvoline indicated: "The Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil 80-w90 can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The real concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil. You can not use an active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers." What is your input on this? Is there a way to confirm the truth to this? I didn't know GL4 from GL5 till this forum......I use Valvoline 75-90 limited slip. It says it can be used in transmissions calling for GL4 or GL5. Anyone know if I can use this in Datsun transmissions? Sounds like its OK, but I have no idea. Any thoughts?

Maybe Dave builds the race engines and Bubba and A.J. have a crack at the public engines.......Ed China would say "This is Rubbish"!

If I were you, I wouldn't even futz with dropping the oil pump and moving it 180 degrees. It ain't going to change a thing! Just remember it's 180 out.....enjoy it.......... IMO

Couldn"t agree with you more......How can you dyno an engine and not note that you're 180 degrees out? How could you ship it out without correcting it? The reason why I like to build the engines myself.

No difference as far as setting up distributor shaft...........

No difference.

Looks great, runs great......That's all that matters. Make sure you've got good oil pressure and change the oil and filter after a couple hundred miles. Congrats!

Oops!

You can change the wires on the distributor or drop the oil pump and fix it right. You are 180 degrees out. Remember......firing order is counterclockwise. Make sure you are TDC COMPRESSION stroke.

Nothing more beautiful than the shape of the Datsun 240z! Well played Mr. K! I can hardly get enough of your Japanese cars! Thanks for the memories.

Chuck sent me a picture. The 72 is ready.......this is a cell phone pic......I'll send better pics when I get her home!

It's always better to center wipe patterns with the actual lash pads you're going to use. Just order 5 or 6 lash pads .150, .160, .170, .180 etc. With a stock cam, it should be .120, .130, .140 etc. No telling with the company that built your head though. Valve retainers have different hat seat depths. Stock valve retainers are only deep enough for lash pads that are less than .170 inches.

Just clean the float valve......if it's dirty, gas will discharge through your air cleaner and onto the floor, hopefully without disastrous results!

Really cool car....both of them! What is it? A Jenson, Fiat? I give up.

I used one of those snap on rubber wine bottle cork (sealer). they come in all kinds of colors.

I agree with Westpak.....Total Seal are the best I've used.....I didn't use the gapless rings though.....just went with their regular rings. Nissan rings are my second choice......the oil rings and spacers are so nice on either set of rings. Hastings oil rings suck, as do ITM rings. I use Nissan rings with ITM Pistons and throw the rings away.

I love it......It says "Not Actual Engine Shown". Of that you can be sure........you'll get an engine that resembles Frankenstein's brother!

.........use plenty of that zinc cam lube, and any other slick lube you can apply (). It'll protect both cam surfaces and rocker surfaces until that VR 1 arrives to do it's job! They look beautiful!

Thanks Steve......Z Doc builds a really nice head.....those stainless steel swirl valves look great don't they. Engines are a piece of art if done correctly.

Cliff.....I use a Nissan P79 head gasket. We drill out the orafice for the stock fuel pump and use the stock mechanical fuel pump. I always use the MSA turbo head bolts and the stock oil pump.

Stock lash pad thickness is just under .120 inches.......they are concave and sit down on the valve stem. New lash pads are usually flat across the bottom. If you were that far back on the wipe pattern, you'll need to start with a thicker lash pad (assuming the builder used a stock lash pad). I'd start by measuring the thickness of what he used ( you have to get inside the concave bottom to the flat top of the lash pad). Then I'd order one of each .130, .140, .150. ......then check the wipe pattern on each valve to make sure they all require the same lash pad. Put rocker and lash pad in an egg carton to keep in order.

Oh yes.....sorry to get off subject......Mike said his L28 block N42 head works without detonation. Why wouldn't you go for biggest displacement? The SU's are so simple and efficient.....you'll love em! If money isn't a problem, send em off to Ztherapy.....they'll come back like new. BTW, you said the L24 was bored over by .050 inches. I've never heard of a .050 over bore......010, .020, .030 , .040 and .060, but never .050 over. Is that right?

Rossiz.......Here's what your P79 will look like. This one is shaved and shimmed.