Diseazd

Jeff is talking a P79 head with deep chambers. Don't think for a minute you can shave .050 inches off of an E88 or E31. You don't want to contact the valves against the pistons. Like Steve suggested.....get a copy of "How to Modify the Datsun 240Z and 510". I believe (but not sure), that you don't want to take off more than .030 inches with a stock gasket.

Same here.....black Phillips....no washer.

Looks like it must of come from the small hole between the cylinders, or possibly the larger hole opposite the side of your red arrow....the way it was eaten away from that direction. I've seen it eat the metal ring in the gasket and get in that way. Still have the old gasket? Too bad....looks like a nice head other than that.

Eddy....Check the two water passages adjacent to number 3.....see if you can see any etching along the gasket surface into the cylinder. If so, it needs to be milled out if you reuse the head. That's where the water would enter the cylinder. Number 6 has a big water jacket and therefore that's where it usually occurs.

Just wondering....any other brave tasks you're taking on mate? Like wrestling a 16 foot crock or boxing a kangeroo? It is a low number and it'll be fun watching you take her apart. Good Luck.....if you run into Ozconnection, give him my best!

Not necessarily......the electrolysis eats a little tunnel under the gasket, into the combustion chamber. The water continues to eat aluminum and other metal. I had one do the same thing. Can't remember whether it was 5 or 6. It's like an electric current flows through the water and slowly eats metal like a weak acid. Probably has something to do with the electrical system being neg ground and a very small short in the circuit somewhere. Like I said SteveJ is our resident electrical guru and could probably explain it. The head can be welded, ground down and new seats installed. You need a pro though....don't want to warp the head. Good Luck Guy

That looks like electrolysis......Never use tap water or well water in your radiator...use distilled water and anti freeze. The metals and other contaminants in H2O cause an electrical reaction that eventually eats a little tunnel under the head gasket and gets in the cylinder. It reacts with aluminum and other metals and eats it away. This usually happens when the car is sitting for a long time. I'll bet SteveJ can help with this.

Glad it's you and not me! :tapemouth

Save the Z for Zedytwo_kenobi.......borrow the money to buy the Alpha. Gotta admit....the yellow one is beautiful!

Replace 'em.....w/o lead additives, they'll be pounded out shortly. IMO

Very cool....the car closed the deal!

Wael.....Are these wheels going on a 240z or your 280ZX? If they are going on your 280ZX, you'll have a completely different result than on a 240Z. BTW....you guys in Q8 have some nice Datsuns!

225 50 16"s with 0 offset Panasports...... This car would rub until I installed coilovers and tucked them under the fenders with camber adjustment. If I change tires, I'm going to install 205 55 16's........best tire IMHO....good wheel well fill with no rub issues. :classic:

205 55 16 with 0 Panasports.......no problems! :bulb:

205 55 16 tires with +6 Panasports.....no problems! :bulb:

Has anyone purchased the bumpers at Black Dragon? If so.....how was the quality?

Not a Z, but still a nice Datsun. These shots of my 1972 510 were taken in 1988. That's Five and Dime on the front porch in the 2nd shot. He's 9 years old.

225 50 16 are going to be tough to keep from some rubbing. Front valences will need to be adjusted to prevent contact on sharp turns and in reverse. 205 55 16 will be easier, although the 225 50 16's will fill the well better.

BTW.....I've driven the beast! It drives great, handles great and has six gears that will "Rip the cape off of Superman!"

Attached are pics of an automatic tranny crank.....the last pic is with no bushing.....two of the pictures I put the bushing in the hole partially and one pic of the bushing alone. Hope this helps. When installed correctly, the bushing is tapped all the way in. I didn't do that, because I wouldn't be able to retrieve it. BTW....Whatever happened to the guy who started this thread?

Just went out to the garage and checked a motor (l24) pulled from an automatic 240z. The crankshaft had the large opening in the rear of the crank. I have a spare 240Z crankshaft bushing. It easily taps into the hole to accommodate the manual input shaft. Can't imagine why your bushing wouldn't do the same if you're dealing with a crankshaft from an auto Z. BTW......you're right....if you're not rebuilding the engine, it's easy to simply install the bushing from under the car......simply tap in the manual bushing.

philipnl......My automatic tranny crank did not have the brass bushing in it......I always take my crank to a machine shop.....have them check the tolerances, straightness, and polish the journals. I always replace the bushing on manual cranks and on automatic transmissions, I have them install a bushing. You need to make sure your crank has a bushing when you go from auto to manual. If not, you'll be pulling that engine right back out. :disappoin

I know Steve.....a former shadow of yourself. Jerry.....Nice hair!

Skinny boy eh Steve?

Anyone got some oldie but goodie pictures of their early Z's? Mine was purchased in 1970....silver on black until it was tailgated in Atlanta. Great memories then....and now!