Diseazd

I agree.....Isky is the way to go.....have them regrind your camshaft to Stage III. The Datsun metals are compatable with other parts in the L series engine. I would suggest that you install new or remanufactured rockers and make sure you understand geometrying a camshaft (centering wipe patterns) with the rockers. Also remember to run Isky valve springs to allow for the extra lift, which requires the shorter valve seals. H.P. is expensive eh? IMO

If you put your cap bearings on the block side, you'd have known it within minutes of fire up. That's not the problem. IMO

2 questions.....1) Did you make sure you were on TDC (compression stroke, not exhaust stroke) before installing distributor drive shaft? 2) How did you make sure that the bottom tang of the distributor drive shaft fit into the oil pump correctly? If it didn't engage properly, you'll have no oil pressure.

Well put Carl.....something about the shape, the smell or the way they drive and handle. Some nights, I just mix a drink, go to the garage and sit in them. At Cars and Coffee or at open shows, they always attract so much attention.....more so than much more expensive rides.

That about says it all HardWay.......well said!

I heard it sold for $40,000.00......from a good source.

His initials wouldn't be RJ would it? Just what you need Jeff.....another frickin' Datsun!!!

Good point Siteunseen.......looks like it should be laying on the front edge of the oil pan, however the spring is probably swimming in the oil pan. :tapemouth

No way in Hell (getting the spring loaded plunger back w/o removing the front cover). IMO. Once you remove the front cover (it ain't that hard), they make an extendable magnet (works like an antenna), you can retrieve the plunger w/o removing the pan, and put it back together the right way!

Don't run it another second......pull the front cover and reinstall the tensioner plunger. You should be able to retreive the plunger with a magnet extender.

Thanks for the pics......didn't even know they existed.

Just curious.....would you post a picture of your"clean" exhaust manifold.

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: Welcome foreign members......glad you love the Z!

I'm with Mark and Leon........go with option 1.

A is 4 cylinder, B is 6 cylinder......they grind solid and hollow cams the same. I've never seen an N47 cam on a spray bar head. Does it have holes drilled in the lobes for internal oiling? It strange to me that they would have a spray bar and internally oiled cam, but have never worked on the early N47 head. Not sure who to recommend, but if you've never done one before, it might pay to ship it off. Z Doctor builds all of my heads, but he has slowed his ops to a minimum. I'm sure Dave Rebello will build you a nice head. My guess with cam, springs valves etc., you're looking at $2,000.00, but only a guess.

Ditto that......

Yes they do have a spray bar.......In fact, you can send the cam from the E31 to be ground if you've got it. Just remember, it must be used with a spray bar.

Cliff.....Just a clarification. You didn't mean you were going to install the cam towers from the N47 onto the E31 did you? It sounded like that what you said in the first post. You definitely would want to use the cam towers from the E31 on the E31, not from the N47. Just checking. Guy

Interesting.....Is the 1 the front and the 2 the rear?

Send your rockers to Delta Cams to be reconditioned like new......$4.00 each. Not sure where to buy lash pads, but you'll need to geometry the cam (center the wipe patterns). Isky sells .175 lash pads which should get you centered, but I find they can vary between .160 and .180's depending on the the head shop getting valve stem height even. Remember.....if you're using the E31 head with the Stage III Isky cam, you'll need the short valve seals mentioned earlier. Isky will take about 2 weeks to get the cam back to you. Finally, you will need to get a set of Isky valve springs to handle the .490 lift cam.

I sense a new fire.............careful Steve... h.p. is more addictive than ohms and volts.

.......and while you're at it, how about an E31 or early E88. Use your existing head for a boat anchor in Lake Lanier! LOLLOLLOL

Great to see you doing something that ain't measured in volts Steve. When you go back together, install a set of Ztherapy round tops and it'll put a big smile on your face! :ogre:

Good point Steve......Felpro makes a short valve seal that I use on my E31 head with the .490 lift Isky Stage III cam. It is supposed to handle up to .500 inch lift. Improved L6 Valve Stem Seals - L-Series - HybridZ You can use the stock valve seals on an .080 inch shaved P79 or P90 head because the valve springs are shimmed up .080 inches with the longer early L28 valves when you use the Isky Stage III (.490 lift) cam though.

I have the Isky Stage III in all of my Z's. It's a really nice regrind......good duration....no ping, but I run the P79 heads. When you install a regrind, install new rockers (IMO) and you'll have to geometry the cam ( wipe patterns centered with the correct lash pads). If you run flat top L28 pistons (P79), your compression ratio may be high enough to ping with the early E31.......not sure about that, but if you over bore, it'll be even more of a potential problem. The Isky Stage III makes nice power for me......I love it and Isky is great to work with. Sounds really nice at idle too.....that's important.