Diseazd

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html Pretty much explains what I do Crazy......plenty of power....lots of fun!

Good question CrazySwede......If the valve is longer, how do you compensate for the longer valve? With the P79/P90 head, when you shave the head .080 inches, you shim the the valve springs .080, the cam towers .080 and use the early L28 valves which are .080 inches longer. Therefore, the distance between crank sprocket and cam sprocket remain the same as stock....in other words, the engine remains at stock geometry in regards to the valve train and chain distance. With the DSI longer valve, if you shim the valve spring, without shimming the cam towers, wouldn't you throw the geometry of the valve train haywire? And, if you shimmed the cam towers, wouldn't you screw up the chain distance, unless you shaved the head by that much more? No doubt that the longer valve would be a big help for retainer to valve seal clearance on higher lift cams and bigger and lighter is definitely a plus.

Great story Mitch......hope you had a GoPro cd to remember your experience!

Shake em side to side.......if one or two feel loser than others, tighten the gap from .010 to .008 inches. Sometimes when you torque the lock nuts down, you'll change the lash clearance on that final lock down. Your noise is almost certainly in the valve train....loose is noisy...right?

One at a time, after you adjust each valve while the lobe is up, try to rock the rocker back and forth......if you find one that feels loose, take a little out of the adjustment. You can usually feel the play in a noisy rocker. Some Z engines just have more valve train noise than others.....but you can usually isolate a loud rocker by doing this procedure. IMO

Fred.....Please give me a call.....I'd love to have you over for burgers and Datsun talk. Guy

Thanks Jeff......It really is a car I've always been crazy about......It looks great next to the Datsuns!

Let me know if you ever want to sell that 510. My son would be interested. Here are some photos of the ride.

Technically the car isn't in the garage yet. But it's on the way and will arrive Friday. Better photos will follow this weekend.

Wael.....PM sent....how's Q8? You guys have awesome Z's....glad to see you like the Datsuns.....good taste! Guy

OZ......Great job on trying new things......with those numbers, you're doing something right...eh mate.....keep using your own instincts ....I'm proud of you! Guy

Wow OZ nice numbers! Is that right 213 h.p.? Send some pictures mate. Pump or rocket fuel?

Sorry to hear that jcb. What I would do if I were you is to buy an old worthless booster on EBay.......pull out the plunger and scavenge the disc. Old boosters can be had for very little cash. You can get them from a 240 or 280. A junk yard or salvage site might also be a good place to look.

Hurry up......we're waiting. Vaccuum the disc out, glue it on, put it back together and tell everyone how damned smart we are. It's a one hour job! :stupid::stupid:

It's in there......get it if you can (no way it escaped). The booster is miserable without that little disc.....feels like you have to put both feet on the brake pedal to stop the car. Super glue it to the plunger.

I agree with Blue....also you can neck down a small section of hose to your vacuum cleaner with duct tape....fish it around in the hole and it will stick to the end of the hose! :bulb::bulb::bulb::bulb::bulb:

.......and the definition of a restored Z vary by a wide degree. A professionally restored Z......done by crafstsmen, the correct way, will bring between $30,000.00 to $50,000.00. That's the good news. The bad news is the restoration costs will probably be much higher than the return. Most cars on EBay advertised as restored, need a total restoration IMO.

Puff your chest out Carl .......Jeff..You can have your choice for a bizillion! A pretty accurate pricing guide that I've found is that an early 240Z is worth about 75% of what you've invested......not counting your own time!

Not sure, but I think Les at Classic Datsun sells their stuff. Why not order from him if he does?

Yes.....But your early Z has the short drive shaft......so you'll need another early Z manual or auto driveshaft. Why not try the spacers first.....a lot easier to eliminate alignment of the driveshaft ends first. If someone removed the mount without replacing the spacer, that could easily be your problem. BTW....beautiful car! PS.....make sure the PO didn't already move the diff rearward.....in that case you would need the 72-73 longer driveshaft.

When I swapped out my 72 from auto to manual, there was a spacer between the tranny mount and tranny. Make sure your mount has this spacer.....it makes all the difference in alignment of the drive shaft.

Gather all of the parts that need plating.....clean them up with carb cleaner.....never use steel wool or sandpaper. DatsunSpirit is in Manassas. Don't know for sure, but would bet Eiji would throw your stuff in with his next batch. His cad plating is very,very nice!

Carb linkage should never be painted IMO. You want it to operate smoothly with no binding. Either leave it like it is, or have it plated. Eiji at DatsunSpirit in your neck of the woods may be able to help you with plating.

E31 with stock valves and seats.....not L28 valves and seats. Good Luck ole boy....takes a while to figure out what works and doesn't work with these cars.

Eddy....If you're going to put a head on for the 2500 mile trip to the resto shop, go with the E88 or E31. If you install the N42 or N47 head (with the larger L28 valves, you'll need one of two things). 1) bore it out at least .030 inches so the exhaust valve clears the side of the L24 standard bore block or 2) notch the side of the cylinder to allow valve clearance. Install the E88 or E31 and you can bolt it right up with no clearance issues if you go back with the stock L24 valves. Once you decide for sure which head you'll use, our knowledgeable members will advise you on further needed steps.