Diseazd

I wish he wouldn't use those big words........Sometimes I think engineers read too much. I love that roadster, but I think it has a little too much DRIP in the front!

Ride height of Eibachs............

Zedy.......You'll love the ride you get with Eibachs........they don't lower the stock ride height much....maybe a half inch. Glad to see you back on the Z. Any pics of the roadster? Hope you have your "safety socks" on when you're working on that suspension. BTW.....Eibachs are black, so they look stock.

Chris.....Just wondering......why not put a couple clips in the new cut out area to finish off your cut out more? I like both of your solutions......just find it hard to cut the console of a Series 1.

I bead blast mine to metal and have them ceramic coated. If you don't want to spend the $$$$ for ceramic coating, bead blast and paint with VHT.

If you can get the air tube slugs out, you can buy brass plugs to fill the holes.

Bravo Bruce! You're the guys that keep em running!

The "absorber" is equal to a chamois IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY69V/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=43845868762&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6759956198359111516&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5nft8ffx1m_b This works great....

Installed the new Futofab sway bar I bought for the green 72. Easy installation and really helps in the corners.

Steve.....Add one of these.....it'll stop that body roll. Futofab has 'em.

Cool......Lets "get Crackin'"!

BTW......The cam doesn't look like a regrind (looks stock). If it has been re ground, the cam grinder usually etches the profile on the back end of the camshaft (you would probably need a mirror to see it in the car), but yours looks bone stock.

I just ran into the same thing with the BD hood bumper screws. I did the same thing you did by just transferring the rubber bumper to the old studs. However, that's the first problem I've had with their parts......for the most part, they are an excellent supplier.

So nice to see a Z restored "the right way". I hope your painter is as good as your body work!

Then you've answered his question.......keep 'em in the holes they came out of. That would explain why the rod big ends are numbered.

Now that would make sense......However did the factory really balance to each engine or try to equalize the weight on all piston / rod sets?

The rods are numbered 1 through 6 on the big end.......when the caps are installed, the numbers will be on the same side. Why wouldn't you put them back in order? My guess is it would work out of order, but why?

Guess green is in order........not long till Spring.

Thanks Captain........ I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for working with me through this trauma.....you too Zed Head.

It's a very special and rare car.......240Z's are numerous......I still say that a really, really nice 240Z will bring 75% of what's invested......but, they sure are fun to own and drive, and they are readily available. Want to own for a big profit.....probably not. Maybe some day.

BTW Blue.......I sawed open the oil filter......clean as a whistle.

You're right Captain......I'm not going to worry about the oil pressure. I ordered a new pump (cheap insurance), but everything in the bottom end and top end look perfect. Sometimes you think something that turns out completely wrong.......I was convinced the squealing was my main bearings going out.....especially when the engine locked up. The probability of two things going wrong at exactly the same time are probably statistically nearly impossible. Thanks for everyone's input......I hope this was the problem.....nothing else that I can think of that I haven't checked.

That's just beautiful nix........really cool. Will woods???

BTW.......The tranny, collar, clutch fork along with a new throw out bearing clutch pressure plate are doing fine in the L28 in the car as we speak.