Diseazd

Yes.....The thick cotton padding will save your big toe in case you drop the diff on it!!! Gotta get some myself ......the flip flops aren't much help!

Early Z's have an external voltage regulator.......280's have an internal voltage regulator. You can have a good alternator and a bad voltage regulator. A bad battery wouldn't stress an alternator, it would take 14 volts and not charge.......no stress on the alternator.

I think he's probably dead on. The voltage regulator is shot and it's stressing the alternator. Too much drag will burn the bearings up. Mine did the same thing........same squeal, burned up the belt. The alternator got so hot I thought it was going to catch on fire.

I had the same problem with a new alternator once. It would peg the amp meter all the way to the right. I installed a new alternator and voltage regulator. Problem solved.......not sure which did the fix. Steve J could probably explain why it pegged at max amps. It had that same burnt rubber residue and smell and squeal. If I recall, there was a fried wire in the voltage regulator. If you have a voltage regulator, take the cover off and check it out. I'm not sure if the alternator caused the voltage regulator to fail or vice versa.

Champion of the driveway racers! When you take it out, do some hard nose down braking......The front end will settle in. The harder you drive it through the hard left and right turns, the more she'll settle down. Take a big friend with you.......it'll help getting her down. BTW.....nice installation.....bet you could do it in your sleep now.

Stephen......The car will settle in over the next couple weeks. The Eibach springs aren't much of a drop from stock. Looks great......how do you like the ride?

For $3,000.00, you can't beat a Bendpak Lift. I couldn't live without it. Plus....It gives you another garage space!

That's really cool! Sectioning is a real pain. Let us know how they do.......don't know why they wouldn't be just as good as GC Coilovers.....only a much, much easier install.

A little confused......Do you saw your struts off at the base and just weld em up?

What's your conclusion Steve? Don't know about you, but I think the delta rockers look nicer.

Smart Guy......I think I agree with Diseazd!!!

Delta V in downtown Richmond does nice work .......reasonable prices. Ask for Glenn.....tell him Brandon Miller sent you.

You're not calling me a "dipstick" are you Blue?

A picture tells a thousand words......with 5 hungry Z's to feed, I keep a couple extra quarts of VR1. You never know when they are going to ban ZDDP altogether!

Stephen......I'd love to see a dozen or so pics of your Roadster. How 'bout it?

Seems to me, that based on each individual's research and experience, and recommendations by those whom we know and trust, each person has their "favorite" oil. I built plenty of "L" series motors in the 70's and didn't pay much attention to oil other than we used non detergent oil to break in a new build (so the rings would seat properly). However, if oil producers were adding ZDDP then, and then were forced to remove it, I think I want that in my oil now (just me). I still think that the most important aspect in breaking in a new valve train is plenty of flow and an oil that clings to pressure points. Make sure that all t's are crossed and i's dotted to make sure that happens. Fill your oil pump with oil before installing it and liberally coat the pressure surfaces with a quality prelube (which most contain zinc supposedly because it clings and coats metal better) and make sure you have oil flow. If you want to use something other than ZDDP additive oil, more power to you.....you may be fine or you may not. Your choice......my choice is VR1.

My guess is that if a new camshaft is destroyed on start up, it's probably more from a lack of lubrication flow than the type of oil. I've never had a problem with camshaft break in, but I make sure I fill the oil pump with oil before installation to insure it's primed.....also coat lobes and rockers with heavy zinc break in lube. If Isky recommends VR1, I'm going to use it.......may not make a difference, but I don't want to find out that it does.

Jeff........To get another Z, I'd have to expand my garages.....and what are the chances of that????

Nope ......this time I'm sure!

Thanks rdefabri........that's about the best compliment I could ask for......sorry, I couldn't part with any of them........but, I'm done.....no more!

My gosh Stephen.....you're human too. Must not have had your safety socks on!

I've got 'em on all five of mine......no problem what so ever.

I would tighten the two bolts that go from the diff through the mustache bar. Unless they are damned tight, it'll make a similar sound.

SledZ........Once you get a set of Total Seal or Nissan rings, you'll understand how bad the ITM oil ring is! The pistons are awesome, and the top and middle ring are fine....just that oil ring which can destroy an engine if not installed correctly. Don't buy Hastings either.....they're almost as bad.