Diseazd

It could possibly be bad bushings in the distributor shaft. Grasp the rotor while still in the distributor and shake back and forth for play. Also, did you check for broken point connection (small wire in distributor) they get pinched and can short out. That would be a $1.00 fix. Let us know where you stand. Guy

Jay.....Your problem is most likely adjustment in the choke cables. Get a buddy to pull the choke lever back while you are looking under the carbs to make sure the chokes are engaging properly. You shouldn't have to "pump her up " each time she sits! Also as the "Just SU's" tape will show you, make sure they are closing when you push the lever forward!

Sorry Jimmy.....I missed the GTR......you win 2nd!!!!!!

JimmyZ.......You win the contest hands down!!!! I've got to have one for my garage......awesome!

Bruce is dead on.....you could end up with a leaky exhaust gasket.

A late air box, a late console.......If the engine isn't original, why would anyone spend the money on a very expensive resto? This is a $1500.00 parts car! IMO

OZCONNECTION........Not at all....I'm trying all kinds of combos myself. I'm building my third engine....the L28 has a stage III cam, head shaved and shimmed .080. An L24, E 31 with a stage II with 1mm oversized intake and an L26 exhaust (bored .040 over) and finally the L24,E31 with stock valves and a stage I cam ( bored .020 over). What I've found out is I thought I wanted low end, but the top end is awfully fun too !!!!! The stage I should be a low end car....Stay in touch on your findings. the L series engine never ceases to amaze me. Guy

No problem........it's a fun car to work on. Guy

Bob....With the head off you can't rotate the crank because your timing chain is jammed with the special tool that keeps it from falling into the oil pan......but...if you remove the head with the #1 piston TDC compression stroke, the pointer will be at "0" and your rotor will be at 9:00 or thereabouts pointing in the vicinty of the #1 distributor wire. Yes you are right! Then you have to set timing at about 10 degrees BTDC on the distributor using a timing light after everything (head etc.) is reassembled.

Thanks Mike....I love the Z's in white! Randy...yours is looking great. Guy

You would be 100% correct!

I believe he said he had the oil pump gear installed (not the oil pump) and I assume when he said everything was off except the crank and pistons, that he means the front cover as well. The #1 piston should be at the top of it's stroke (crank key at 12:00) ,with crank sprocket timing mark at approximately 4:00.

Doing things 3 times is what we all do........Z's are a continuous learning project!

RC7 I believe it's possible to put the front diff mount in backwards. Make sure the little "F" on the rubber mount is facing forward. With the early cars, when you change out the mustache bar, diff carrier and longer drive shaft, you can flip the front diff mount backwards to move the diff back the proper distance. It's got to be something simple if everything came out of your car before! Guy

You can do your air cleaner in about 4 hours ......this really makes it look great under the hood. Strip the outside and stickers off with aircraft paint stripper....take it down to bare metal. Then sand any rough spots with 320 grit. Follow it up with a smooth coat of etching primer then paint with Dupli-color orange ( a perfect match for Datsun orange ). Then buy the sticker kit from Motorsports for $ 42.00. Remember no one sees inside, so don't mess with hard to find gaskets! The result under the hood is just amazing and it's actually a fun and easy job.

TRtom.....Did I see your car at the Z Doctor's shop a couple months ago......Is it a Florida car?

Zedyone-Sounds like a little doubt in your last reply. If all the effort doesn't fix the problem try the above. It fixed mine, and you can do it in less than an hour!

85 300ZX definitely out .......71 Z in! Say it one more time. Then do it!

Bruce- Everything done to the car was first class.......I hope my 71 resto turns out as well. Guy

The dash is still "as new". No problems at all......the car is kept in a temp controlled garage....that may not be a good test lab vs. a car left outside. Bruce did an awesome job and an awesome thread. Guy

I bought all of the OEM stuff......It was a little higher and you had to order individually as mentioned above. The bottom of the door piece and door seal are no longer available but as Brandon mentioned I ordered the 280 door seal (one piece with no welting). For front windshield and rear deck glass seal I would definitely go Nissan. If you bring it up with your local dealer you can probably negotiate 20-30% off. P.S. Glad the Vols finally fired Fulmer!

Someone oughta buy this one.....It really looks unmolested. You West Coast guys are so spoiled. If I put another one in my garage it would look like a bubble gum machine!

These nice cars just keep coming out of nowhere!

Your wife's gonna kill you Carl!

Geezer-Just got my BRE rear spoiler from Motorsports. It is smooth on the front (no ridges) , smooth on the back (no place for emblems), and is fully enclosed underneath. It is lined on the bottom with a foam gasket as Carl mentioned and bolts with two bolts that attach via the drain plugs. The quality is perfect! It's exactly what I was looking for. I'll post pics when my computer savvy son can get to it.