Diseazd

I'm thinking about putting a rear BRE spoiler on my 71 resto. I don't know anything about how they are attached etc. Are they bolted on to the tailgate and if so what keeps water from entering the bolt holes and rusting the metal? Do you think the juice is worth the squeeze? I like the look!

Agreed......A good bodyman is almost impossible to find (one that doesn't cut corners). This type of resto is very expensive.......You can find people that do decent work for 1/4 of what this will cost. You've got to have the disease, and I've had it since my first 240Z......and it's only getting worse!

When I finish my 71 resto, I can guarantee it'll be more than $39,000.00. The seller probably paid over $30,000.00 from the program. I've heard he's very reputable too.

Same here.....It feels like a lot of play, but it probably ain't the problem!

Mark.....would love to have you over......I just bought some PM stock....I'm a broker. Guy

If anyone knows the owner of the Safari Gold Z please PM me. I'm doing a Safari Gold resto and would like to know where he got his color (formula). Thanks Guy

Zedd Savers sells restored fuel rails.....they're beautiful!

Don't cut corners.....go with Les. You'll live with it forever.....do it right!

Carl......My 5/70 1970 has the metal emblems on the tailgate. Guy

I'm looking to replace the door seals on my 71 restoration. Motorsports offers a one-piece seal. Has anyone used this door seal or do you have suggestions of what works best? Show me some pics if possible. Thanks Guy

Jared....Congrats on a job done right! It's going to be exceptional.

Bruce ....I've heard they're making a new version of 'Just SU's" starring Pee Wee Herman......any truth to that?

The show is next Sunday......Anyone needing directions, let me know. Guy

Randy......you're starting to get into it aren't you? Careful or you'll be an expert on the 240Z clutch! Good Luck......Guy

Yes I noticed it on my P-79 Felpro head gasket and ordered the stock Nissan gasket. They each covered the exact same amount of the water passages.....therefore that must have been in the engineer's design. I believe the one in the picture above is a Felpro which overlays the stock gasket perfectly.

Z Therapy recommends not running water through intake manifolds unless you're in an extremely cold area of the world.......they say it warms the mixture and that's what I've always heard.

Zoom!zoom!

Julio- I'm running new Z Therapy carbs with SM needles in all three of my Z's The L-28 with Stage III Isky , shaved .080" and shimmed should be running 225 h.p. It's a rocket and has no problem with stock carbs and SM needles. I'm running stock manifolds on each engine with 2 1/2 " pipes. Can't wait to see how the L-24 performs, but the L 28 is a ball! Guy

Julio- The reason I asked is because I'm building an L-24 with some "juice" right now. We used the E-31 head, 260z exhaust valves and 1mm oversized intakes. The cam is an Isky stage II with new rockers to match. The block is bored .040" oversize. We should be running 10to1 compression ratio. Can't wait to put her in the new restoration which I hope to be finished by Xmas. Let me know if you get further details from Dave. Thanks Guy

Julio-What did Dave do to get that much out of your L-24? What cam,valves,shaving and shimming, etc. etc.? How much overbore and stroke? Guy

Brian......If you didn't have to burn 'em, someone did it before you got it.

Just fixed my clunk! Jack up the car and in order 1) Check for loose nuts on all halfshafts and driveshaft 2) Grab and shake halfshaft u-joints and drive shaft u-joints 3) retorque 2 nuts on backside of mustache bar and 2 nuts holding mustache bar to frame 4) check front diff mount rubber bushing for deteriation 5) check play in diff front yoke ( 1/4" back and forth is absolutely normal ). I did 1-5 with no culprits! 6) Replace control arm bushings ( mine were the culprit) I replaced with new Motorsport teflon and the annoying clunk is totally gone! It was clunking on acceleration and release and now it's like brand new! The 4 large bolts on the front and rear of the control arms had come loose and the control arm had shifted over one of the bushings causing a shift in the control arm on acceleration and release. I had always suspected all the previous culprits but didn't think of the control arm bushings, and they are pretty easy to replace without removing the diff! Give it a try.

Hold a butane torch on the rubber bushing till she starts burning....it ain't nothing to it.....like mentioned above, don't drive the metal insert out and do it outside......it's almost fun if you're a "Pyro".

Flying is "Hours and hours of monotony enterlaced with moments of sheer terror!" And rememember..... a good landing is one you walk away from.

I flew with my Dad growing up....He owned 2 different Navions, 2 different 310'S , 2 different Twin Bonanza's and a Beech Barron, We had a friend in Georgia that owned 2 B- 26's , a Bearcat, and a P-51 at the same time. We used to tell him that all he needed to do was find " a weak country"? What's in your hangar?