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Diseazd

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Everything posted by Diseazd

  1. Right you are Arne......I've got the MSA front "spook" for all 3 Z's. the 70,71 and 72. The MSA BRE type front "spook" is very high quality, light weight and well finished. At only $109.00 you can't beat it!!! I prefer the vented version ( I have 2 vented and 1 non vented) although they both look awesome.
  2. I've got 3 lowered Z's. One has 225-50-16's and the front valence rubs when backing up in a hard turn and bottoms on a hard dip. Another has 205-50-16's which are an inch shorter than the 225's and somewhat narrower......there are absolutely no valence or bottom out problems with the 205's. The last Z is still in restoration, but will have 205-55-16's which are the same height as the 225's but narrower. I haven't run these yet, but believe it will fill the well the best without the problems of the 225's. The white Z in the avatar has the 225's. Guy
  3. GNOSE......Have you got an e mail or telephone number for that diff mount? Guy
  4. Yellow Fever......What kind of tires are they in 215-50-16? I couldn't find a good brand that carried that size. Guy
  5. It was something else 26th Z........Go Jackets!
  6. I was at those Road Race of Champions races in Atlanta.........I couldn't buy a Z fast enough after seeing John Morton burn up Road Atlanta!!!! You should have heard the Z's and 510's coming through the ess's......they were always in front!!!!
  7. Josh.......I like your first idea.....a leak in the front cover behind the water pump (caused by electrolysis). It's easier to check than pulling the head, and a good place to start. Head gasket leaks are many times accompanied by white smoke from the exhaust! Pull the water pump and check her out. If that ain't it.......pull the head....It's usually the #6 cylinder that leaks. Guy
  8. Diseazd replied to doradox's topic in Open Discussions
    All you need to do is jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it!!!!:
  9. NOTA 280-You better order some of Todd's(Wolfcreek) CV drive shafts......You're gonna need them! Guy
  10. Ditto Wolfcreek Racing.....they do a nice rebuild at a good price and don't keep them forever!
  11. Landed my dogleg......It was cut from a rust free quarter for $250.00. A place in Oregon called Danny's Datsun. He did a great job of describing, cutting, packing and shipping! Now the only thing that I need to complete my parts inventory is a perfect restorable (dent free) front bumper. Guy
  12. I called BlackDragon......The early bumper is not OEM, it's a knock-off. It may be a good knock-off, but still not original.
  13. Thanks Doug......wonder why the early bumpers (70-72) that BlackDragon sells are so much more expensive....like $499.00 vs $150.00? Has anyone ever purchased the early bumper from BlackDragon, and if so, are they OEM ? If not, are they a good copy? Guy
  14. Rick....Thanks for your reply....Yes it puzzled me why the 260 bumper was so much cheaper than the 240. Was the quality good? Do you know if was an OEM or a knock-off? Thanks Guy
  15. That is a sweet price to pay........I think you can probably rechrome one for 1/2 that price, but it's tempting to get the real deal. Thanks Doug
  16. The tool is cheap.....buy one!
  17. Anyone know where to buy a new front bumper for a 1971 240Z? Has anyone bought one from Black Dragon and if so, how was it?
  18. When you get them off BlackDragon has new replacements.
  19. Carl.....We understand that, and Chuck was perfectly willing to use Tabco if that was the last resort. However , he preferred the real thing and if I could provide them I wanted to. This car is going to be special as I think you can tell by the restoration thread.(look at the perfect circles in the front radiator panel where he welded the front clip). I agree that an expert body man can save time and of course you know the results will be perfect. I wouldn't use anyone else. He's within weeks of finishing the final body work and laying on paint. You're gonna like what you see. Thanks for all of your help. Guy
  20. I agree with Jon......Unless you really don't feel like it's yours if you don't do it yourself, I would buy someone else's resto, because you'll probably never get your money out of a good resto but remember you can buy someone else's for pennies on the dollar. There have been a dozen or so Z's on ebay this year that were immaculate for under $30,000.00.
  21. Don't worry Arne....If you subtract my owes from Brandon's owes, it's a very large number of net owes for him! Guy
  22. Roger at the Z Barn. www.ZBARN.com By the way, when you get the new one, you just light the rubber bushings on fire with a torch and she will burn up like a flare. Do it away from civilization as it makes a mess! Wire brush the inside mess and your new Teflon will fit as new. Good Luck
  23. There is a metal sleeve that was pressed out that should have stayed! You're supposed to burn out the bushing with a blow torch and leave the metal sleeve in. I am not aware if there is any way to fix it short of a new mustache bar. At least they are cheap and readilly available. Guy
  24. Thanks Moonpup......I saw that and would love to chop it, but $650.00 is a little steep for a dogleg. The whole panel however is a steal for someone needing the whole quarter. Guy
  25. Mike....Definitely go poly (IMO). Just make sure when installing the bushings that you coat them with silicon grease, otherwise they will squeak on you. The poly on the rear inner control arms will also help eliminate the dreaded rear clunk!
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