Diseazd

Z Therapy recommends not running water through intake manifolds unless you're in an extremely cold area of the world.......they say it warms the mixture and that's what I've always heard.

Zoom!zoom!

Julio- I'm running new Z Therapy carbs with SM needles in all three of my Z's The L-28 with Stage III Isky , shaved .080" and shimmed should be running 225 h.p. It's a rocket and has no problem with stock carbs and SM needles. I'm running stock manifolds on each engine with 2 1/2 " pipes. Can't wait to see how the L-24 performs, but the L 28 is a ball! Guy

Julio- The reason I asked is because I'm building an L-24 with some "juice" right now. We used the E-31 head, 260z exhaust valves and 1mm oversized intakes. The cam is an Isky stage II with new rockers to match. The block is bored .040" oversize. We should be running 10to1 compression ratio. Can't wait to put her in the new restoration which I hope to be finished by Xmas. Let me know if you get further details from Dave. Thanks Guy

Julio-What did Dave do to get that much out of your L-24? What cam,valves,shaving and shimming, etc. etc.? How much overbore and stroke? Guy

Brian......If you didn't have to burn 'em, someone did it before you got it.

Just fixed my clunk! Jack up the car and in order 1) Check for loose nuts on all halfshafts and driveshaft 2) Grab and shake halfshaft u-joints and drive shaft u-joints 3) retorque 2 nuts on backside of mustache bar and 2 nuts holding mustache bar to frame 4) check front diff mount rubber bushing for deteriation 5) check play in diff front yoke ( 1/4" back and forth is absolutely normal ). I did 1-5 with no culprits! 6) Replace control arm bushings ( mine were the culprit) I replaced with new Motorsport teflon and the annoying clunk is totally gone! It was clunking on acceleration and release and now it's like brand new! The 4 large bolts on the front and rear of the control arms had come loose and the control arm had shifted over one of the bushings causing a shift in the control arm on acceleration and release. I had always suspected all the previous culprits but didn't think of the control arm bushings, and they are pretty easy to replace without removing the diff! Give it a try.

Hold a butane torch on the rubber bushing till she starts burning....it ain't nothing to it.....like mentioned above, don't drive the metal insert out and do it outside......it's almost fun if you're a "Pyro".

Flying is "Hours and hours of monotony enterlaced with moments of sheer terror!" And rememember..... a good landing is one you walk away from.

I flew with my Dad growing up....He owned 2 different Navions, 2 different 310'S , 2 different Twin Bonanza's and a Beech Barron, We had a friend in Georgia that owned 2 B- 26's , a Bearcat, and a P-51 at the same time. We used to tell him that all he needed to do was find " a weak country"? What's in your hangar?

Zedyone.......I think you may be going in the wrong direction with your diff replacement. Check out what Yellow Jedi said....It wasn't his u-joints or diff mount...he replaced those twice....when he finally replaced all rear bushings the clunk disappeared! My guess is his problem was the four rear control arm bushings...remember the u-joints, driveshaft and diff mount aren't the only areas under stress in the rear. The wheels and tires are trying to twist the control arms apart! If the four large bushings aren't installed correctly or have been worn from high torque runs over the years, you can have metal to metal contact or severe movement on either side of the bushings. However like previosly mentioned in this thread, they must be installed properly. Loosen the large bolts on the forward and rearward side of the bushings then take the caps off (2 small bolts on rearward cap, diff bracket capping forward bushings) When finishing the job, tighten the large 4 bolts only when rear wheels are under weight of the car. Clunk elimination is part of Z ownership.....good luck!

WOW! Nice job. What'd the wife get.....or are you a great salesman?

Thanks Alex.......I can't wait either. Chuck is at the point where he should "roll" now......wait till you see his paint work. We'll keep you posted.

Oh my gosh.....The black Z was my first Z. Bought her in 1970....the car would really roll! We used to run her at "Road Atlanta" with the Corvette Club.Every cop in Dekalb Co. Georgia knew that car........That's one reason I had to move to Richmond. The "hottie" is Zero Z's mom! The other Datsun's followed only about 10% are shown....at least a half dozen 510's and another dozen Z's including the 3 I now own.

Yes.......but we're waiting to see if the diff mount fixes his "Clunk!"

Isky Cams includes a flyer with their new reground cams....'Motor Oil Warning" Not all oils are created equal. When installing a high performance camshaft, just any oil will not give your new cam installation sufficient protection during the critical beak-in period (the mating-in of virgin metal surfaces). As of Jan. 04 the gov't has mandated complete elimination of the critical anti-wear additive package (zinc/phosphorus) from all "SM" rated (street legal) motor oils to protect catalytic converters. Isky recommends the following motor oils for max cam lobe and lifter protection before and after break-in period because they are the only conventional mineral based oils available with generous levels of zinc/phosphorous additive package. Brad Penn Penn-Grade I;Pennzoil "GTP" Racing Oil; Valvoline Racing Oil (VR-1). If none are available your GM dealership will have a supplement for your over the counter oils EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) part # 1052367 (16 oz.) bottle to be added to each oil change. EOS contains a generous amount of zinc and phosphorous to bring normal oils up to pre 04 standards. Cost is $9.00 per bottle.

Carl.....Anyone making the bracket that you show.....my metal working skills ain't too good! How about it Jimmy Z......something that you could machine? I'll take three. Guy

Isky Cams includes a flyer with all their new reground cams that it's imperative to break in their new cams with an oil containing ZDDP. I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil.

Jim.......I'll check with him and let you know.....you can probably google local metal works places in your area....Jim said it was only $20-$30. Guy

Jim........That is the most awesome correct fix of a gas tank that I've seen! Beautiful job! My friends who runs British Car Service in Richmond, Va. cuts his and has them galvanized. He says it ain't that expensive. Thanks for a good thread. Guy

A 50 cent O ring will fix your sending unit leak........Drive off the lock ring with a screw driver....pull out sending unit and old O ring.......install new O ring, then repace unit and tap around the lock ring.

Phred......That makes sense.....The block was bored out .040 and the intake valves are 1mm (.040 in. ) oversize so it would seem that the extra overhang of the valve would be offset by the overbore from stock....but the valve is coming down at an angle and that probably makes a difference. I think I'll go ahead and eyebrow just for breathing if nothing else.I always turn my engines over by hand also ( experience is a good teacher). Guy

Phred.....The block is an L24 bored .040 over (+ 1mm) The intake is 1mm oversized which means the valve is actually hanging out .020 more than stock on the block side of the valve. The pistons are flat top with valve reliefs. Valve lift is .480 inches. Of course I'll turn it over by hand to check clearance, but do you think that I would have to notch the block for clearance purposes?

I just got my E31 head back from the Z Doctor. The head has an Isky Stage II cam with .480 lift. The head was not shaved other than clean up. We put 260 Z exhaust valves; 35mm vs 33mm (1.38 in. vs. 1.30 in.). Intakes are 1mm oversize (43mm vs. 42mm ; 1.69 in. vs. 1.65 in.) Is there any mods that have to be done to the block for clearance reasons, or should I be OK as is? I know eyebrowing the block will let it breathe, but is it necessary for clearance?

Ditto Bruce......Guy