beandip

Marc you will get help if you ask your question in the electric forum. All the best . Gary

Question . What are you trying to do with this mod. ? You may vary well find that the vent on the valve cover will emit fumes into the driver compartment. I did see that you did add air horns to the carbs , this is good it will get back some of the lost HP from the stock ones, why dident you just use the stock air cleaner with a K & N filter ? Just wondering. Are you still running the old points type dist. ? If so going to a electronic systime would be a vary good up grade and not too costly. I went with a '79zx ignition and have been vary happy with it for 3 yrs. My 2cts

I pulled the pump form a '79 and took the mount with it. It is just a simple sheet metal thing bent at a 90 deg. and bolted to the floor pan and the pump. You can test the pump by connecting a length of fuel line to the intake side of the pump conect wires to the pump and hook the positive to hot side of a battery and touch the ground to the neg side of a 12vbatt with the hose is some gas. use long wires so there is no spark close to the fuel. You can us keroseen or mineral spirts insted of gas but NOT water. No regulator is needed . You do need to use the 240 fuel rail . The pressure is constant and will not over whelm the carbs , they pump at about 4psi. and enough volume for tripples on a stroker. We tried it . SM needles you will find will produce more performance when you have your foot in it , but wont effect the mileage when driven normally , if you have a light foot. When you can afford it I recommend going to a electronic ignition , I went with a '79ZX dist and coil . '79 &'80s are the same later ones used a different module on the side . one marked 12 80 is what is needed. Hope this helps , congrats and good luck , Gary

One more thing the RX-7 electric pump is quiet where some of the aftermarket ones are not. Gary :rambo:

By all means , if there is any rust on in or around the battery , take care of it now . I also recommend POR- 15 for this. However be sure to use the Mariene clean and Metal ready when preping the metal otherwise the paint may not stick. Important . Also If there ANY leakage at the crankshaft mains especially the rear change it . I wouldent mess with the 240 fuel pump and just go electric , there are wires back by where the fuel line exits the tank. They will be rolled up and taped with blue tape . I used a fuel pump from a RX-7 and it works great and no pressure regulater is needed. Just get one from a NON injected RX mine was from a '79 , $15.00 at the bone yard. If the pan gasket is leaking , this is the time to take care of that as well . DO NOT disterb any crud on the inside of the block ! If you loosen the stuff it can clogg oil passages and you cauld spin another bearing. Check the gasket serface on the pan to see that it is eaven and not distorted from over tightening the pan bolts. I would clean the pan of any sludge before reassenbley, dont overtorque the bolts , It doesn't require much torque for it to seal. You might keep in mind to look into SM needles for the Carbs. Gary

WHEN WE HAVE A DISCUSSION WE ALL LEARN AND GAIN KNOWLEDGE . NO FLAIME INTENDED . Gary

Give this a try, get some thicker oil in the dampers of the carbs. If you are using ATF or Mistery oil it is too thin and causes a momentary lean condition when the throttle is first depressed . I have geen using what was recommended by Datsun , 20 wt. and it eliminated the same problem for me. It's worth a try. Gary

I have been running a R-X7 pump for over 3yrs with no problems. However saying this , the wireing was cobbed up by the PO and the pump ran any time the ignition switch is on. Not a good situation . If you look back by the tank where the fuel line comes from the tank , look for two wires rolled up and taped with blue tape. These are for a electric pump. There on a '71 through at least '73 which is what my car is. The PO dident bother with the stock wires on my car and ran his own and tied it to the hot side of the ballest resister, NOT THE WAY TO GO. I am going to wire my car , when I reassemble it , with a pressure switch at the oil pump sending unit by using a tee . Go your local parts store and ask to look at there book on pressure switches and fine one that closes about 7Psi . Run the power to one side and the other to the fuel pump relay that will turn on the pump. Sorry but I cannot find the part numbers . Gary

I can't believe someone would want to burn up there car and likely the garage they park it in , to save a couple of bucks. I also cant imagine some one risking driving a roman candel. There are things we can cut corners on but anything dealing with fuel , in this manner , is down right foolhardy. If you cannot afford $100. for a part , you cannot afford to own the car . I will bet the radio and sound systime was more than that. I have seen first hand what a person looks like that has burned to death . Believe me you dont forget it.

ES check your email

I cut the floor out of my car with a saws all . You will find the sheet metal to be vary thin and easy to cut . I in stalled a floor pan from Zed Findings . they have the best ones around . 20gage pan and 16gage center support. I believe the factory is 22gage. You might consider not cutting the floor or rocker out untill you have the new parts in hand , this is recommended by C. Osborne . He is the owner of Zedd Findings.

I dont believe so . you can swap the 12 80 on to the '81---'83 . I think the dist you have has a different set up with its components mounted elsware, not on the side of the dist.

There are still quite a lot of good clean 240s out there. There are but few that are in this condition vary few. I think it would be a vary big mistake to do a hybred mod. on this car . Especially since there are so many decent ones out there that have been slightly modifide already , mismatching numbers or a 5 speed or R-200 in there 240 . My friend just two days ago bought a vary clean '72 with a bad engine . It has only 90k on it . He is going to keep the block for the future , just to keep the numbers correct incase he decides to restore. I hate to see a cherry complete 240 get chopped up . My 2cts :sick:

Chris A , I have one of the pullers. At present I have loaned it out. When I get it back I can either draw out the specks or ship it to you. It is a simple devise that should be easy to make if you have access to a lathe. It is a simple design . a length of tubing with some hardened 1/2'' all thread a thrust bearing and three washers and three nuts that fit the all thread. The part that must be made , is piece of steel about 4'' long and about 3/4'' round and bored out and threaded to attach to the all-thread on one end and the pin on the other. I traided for the tool and got it to loan to members and to do my own car.

As Carl stated the supposed increase in HP is only at flat out high RPMs. There is no reason not to use it though. The linkage I am speaking of is the rod that attaches to both carbs in between the two , the round tops require a different length here. I have removed all the emissions stuff and only am running the pcv systime. The only two vacume lines you will need is one that is directly in back of the front carb that attaches to the vacume advance on the dist. and the one that attaches to the vacume booster for the brakes. You can eliminate the rest. This is you if dont have to comply to emissions checking . The car might pass but they dont like it if the junk is missing. all the best , Gary

I use two sets of jack stans . I jack the front up with a floor jack under the front cross member , there is a flat plate where it is the strongest and in the center right at the front of the engine . I place the stands at the beginning of the frame rail where the controll arms attach, one on each side . I jack the rear end by the diff. with the floor jack as well. The rear stands go just out board of the pockets for the seat belts, or by the area that the rocker ends and is attached to floor cross pannel . Another option is to use ramps on one end or the other. If you have the room and two sets of ramps , this will get you higher and the car will be vary stable. But of cource you will need to jack the car up on the ramps . In the future if you need to jack the car for a changing a flat with the factory supplied jack , there are two points on each side of the car ONLY , just in front of the door and just to the rear of the door on the frame rail. NEVER ON THE INNER FLOOR SUPPORTS. Don't allow the tire installers to use the H style flat lifts that are so popular . they will cause the floor pan to buckle upward because the car is being supported only by the floor sheet metal. Hope this helps. Gary

SYMON, If you can install a early air cleaner this would be a good mod as well. the air box has tuned intake tubes that with the thicker insulater add to the ram effect and will gain you some HP . The numbers you are stating that you achieved are really good indeed , for a stock engine . ORANGE 260 , You will need the linkage from the early set up , at least the section that is between the two carbs . This part is of different length. You also need the thick insulaters that fit between the intake manifold and the carb. The fuel rail you have should work . The 260 intake manifould will the one to use. In this descussion I dident read anyone mention the lowering of compression as a factor that reduced performance in the '73 and later cars. Another reason for the larger displacement. The E-88 head on the '73 has lower compression than the E-88 on the '72. There is vary little difference between the '72 and the '73 , other bumpers and emissions junk , this includes the carbs. Gary :rambo:

I have delt with Chloe for a long time and she has always been first class. I does make me wonder what has happened as this is completely oppisite of what usually is her mode of operation. I suggest patience . If any one hears anything please post it for us all. Gary

Are you planning on spraying epoxy primer first on the bare metal?

to each his own indeed. I removed mine and soldered the holes , leaded them like in the old days. I prefer the clean lines of the car with out them. The car is VARY prone to door dings without them I know . I just will need to be careful when I park the car. I have a cover for her in the garage and I have padded the side with foam used to insulate plumbing pipe sewed on the inside of the cover. We have only a 2 car garage and have two cars in it.

Sorry the 280 bar is stright as it passes the diff, and it needs a bend to clear it. I found that a bar from a EARLY 260 will work , by the way the end links will work as they are all the same length. Does your 240 have the hangers on the body pan for the mounting bushings? My '73 had them so it was a simple installation. Hope this is of help . Gary

one thing when you get the pan off check the gasket surface and see if there is any warpage. If the pan was tightend too tight this can cause the pan to warp with highs and lows along the gasket surface. You may need to flaten the sheet metal back out , so that the gasket will seal. Like what was already stated don't over torque the bolts . When you clean the pan , don't disturb any sludge or crud in the inside of the block. Trying to wype out the inside can loosen pieces and clogg oil passages when you refill and start the engine. Good to see you on the site Phred . Gary

I HAVE MINE OFF AT THE MOMENT . If you want a paper template it would be a snap to make one . The sheet metal is there to protect the filler hose from rocks and debris thrown by the tire. I have mine off because I pulled the tank to do body work on the rear vallance and to also eliminate the evap. tank .