bpilati

Okay yeah, I'm familiar with Les' stuff it's always correct. Just wondered about that other guys panels. Anyway, I'm also wondering how many companies are making these cores. Thx.

I'd like to know what everyone that has removed the original materials off the floor and deck areas are using. I'm aware of several products: Dynamat LizardSkin (spray on) SecondSkin Hushmat Ensolite BXT II RAAMmat Eastwood Thermo-coustic (poorly rated) Noxudol 3101 B-Quiet I'm sure there are many more. There are few things I'd like to know about your experience and knowledge of these products. Cost, performance, application issues, flammability are among the most important to me. Please slay me with your knowledge, recommendations and evaluations.

Can't you use your old panel as a template?

I noticed there is no chrome on these panels. Also I'm a bit confused, how many people are making these fiberglass replacement panels. I knew about Les' project a long time ago. Who else is doing this?

Admittedly the original style belts were kind of a cluster-**** because of the nutty regulations they had at the time. So every strap was actually adjustable (i.e., you have 3 adjustors on each side of the car. Technically you could adjust your belt so the buckle was in the middle of your abdomen, which is a dangerous location. In modern belts the male tab slides along the belt so that doesn't happen, and the female part doesn't adjust at all.

The ultimate video about the Datsun 240Z, and the man who designed it.

This is a short history of the Z car from the Datsun 240Z to the Nissan 370Z by MotoMan

Will aluminum accept a clear powder coating?

Bottomline, US 240Z's never came with a right-hand side mirror, because they were not required by NHTSA. Cars came with what was required, and nothing more. Just like all the exterior lights were added to meet the minimum safety requirements of the particular country.

I don't see much lumber support in those seats. Have you checked that out?

Your car's original color is the best color.

GET SOME OIL ON THAT VALVE TRAIN!!! It look dry as a bone, even the cam lobes look like they have wear marks on them. I'd fix the cam sprocket and get the timing right.

Carl, why would you want to suck gasoline vapors INTO the crankcase?

We need a key in the ignition buzzer.

Well I don't think you'd want this, because it has started developing tiny rust holes at the ends. It looks generally good overall though. I'm going to replace with larger exhaust system.

Worn socket is my biggest issue. The silver around the edges is a bit rough, the mirror is very usable.....except the shake.

Can't you repaint the old ones?

Do they rebuilt the whole mirror, removing the worn socket joint?

Hey Carl, looks like some old technology might have slipped through.

Okay let me see: Jun 74 revision: Section 19-2 Engine mounting (Auto All. Manual up to C/# HLS30-46000) (From RLS30, GRLS30) Part # 11330-E4100 assembly Up to 7/73; Part # 11310-N3000 assembly From 8/73 Section 19A-2 Engine mounting (Manual from C/# HLS30-46001 RLS30 GRLS30) Part # 11330-E8700 assembly L24 Manual Up to 6/72; Part # 11310-N3000 assembly From 7/72

Not in Americanese, Mr British man :laugh:

These are awesome photos, first I've seen these types of pictures. I find the middle two photos especially enlightening.

That may be true, but I paid a paint shop to paint my car. They're paid to overcome these issues. The car will begin to rust if it isn't painted correctly, and they didn't seal the seams that they should have.

I believe that's the point I'm making. Thx.

Did you paint everything before installing Dynamat?