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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/05/2018 in all areas

  1. Quartz mechanism Ouch! your really going the wrong direction when working on the quartz mechanism. The electronics with this clock is rock solid and good to about 50 pts per mil. I have never seen a bad Xtl or cap on these mechanisms. The problem is nearly always mechanical and usually missing teeth on the two nylon gears . There are other mechanical problems , but to lengthy for this post. Std 280 mechansm If your going to work on the ckt board you need to: 1- make sure the coils are good. If the flywheel slightly moves it doesn't mean the coil isn't shorted or it will work if you replace all the parts. There are 2 coils , each has a difference resistance, and there are 2 versions of the ckt bd! 2-You need to replace ALL 3 caps (with exact values)and the tran. As mentioned in "DAVE WM" video the coil wires are very small, about 38 gauge , and a bear to replace. You can do everything right and still cook the coil in the process. Difficulty for replacing these parts is VERY HIGH, Unless you have done a lot of micro soldering and have the right tools I wouldn't attempt to replace these parts. Just my 2C Zclocks
  2. As long as the idle is at the proper level, I don't think any of that matters. The idle speed will be a factor of the addition of all the leakage paths around the butterfly, and long as the idle speed is where it belongs, it doesn't really matter which of all of the sources is passing the air. For example... If someone mucked with the butterfly stop and opened it up a little bit, you would just compensate for that by closing down the idle screw a little bit. As long as they didn't open it so wide that it was beyond the compensation range of the idle screw (completely closed), then I think it should all come out in the wash. The idle air flow will be the sum of what goes past the butterfly valve, what goes past the idle speed screw, and what leaks through the BCDD.
  3. This UK article might provide some additional insights into product differences and techniques for surface preparation... http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/tank_cleaning_and_sealing.html You might even consider corresponding with the author, as he will offer the benefit of multiple experiences rather than just sample-sizes-of-one.
  4. Here some pic's from the "old" suspension-arm, it clearly did not have any anti-rust treatment.
  5. ^ Ah... that was a smart idea.
  6. There are still automotive machine shops around that will resurface a flywheel, for about $50. You probably don't need a new one. You live in Ohio. There are probably five within driving distance of you.
  7. Those aren't really designed for EFI pressure. They are usually meant for lower pressure Carbureted motors. And they have a very small filtering area. Compare it to just a stock Nissan EFI Fuel filter in the engine bay. You would be much better off just using the Nissan Fuel filter..... IMHO I can't quite see if you have the stock Nissan fuel filter in place on the passenger side firewall. It looks like you may. If so, there is no reason for this additional glass filter. The other bad thing about glass fuel filters is they can shatter in an accident. Lovely way to start a fire . Really bad deal if you are knocked unconcious......
  8. Just relaying information, gracias friend.

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