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Hi everyone, No parts here, just something for those who enjoy their Z even off the road: good coffee + Z vibes I’m offering a small batch of Z-car themed merch from my Etsy shop — original sumi-e / ink-brush style artwork with Japanese calligraphy, made for fellow Z enthusiasts. What’s available (Z-related): Datsun 240Z Sumi-e Ceramic Mug (11oz & 20oz) https://www.etsy.com/listing/4392707555/datsun-240z-jdm-mug-japanese-sumi-e-car Nissan 300ZX Z32 Sumi-e Ceramic Mug (11oz & 20oz) https://www.etsy.com/listing/4392630361/nissan-300zx-z32-jdm-mug-japanese-sumi-e Nissan 350Z Sumi-e Ceramic Mug (11oz & 20oz) https://www.etsy.com/listing/4393996835/nissan-350z-jdm-mug-japanese-sumi-e-car Nissan 300ZX Z32 Sumi-e T-shirt https://www.etsy.com/listing/4395924485/nissan-300zx-z32-jdm-t-shirt-japanese Quality / basics: Premium ceramic mugs, glossy finish, microwave + dishwasher safe Made-to-order via professional print-on-demand production Checkout only through Etsy (no wire transfers / no unsecured payments) If you’d like a specific Z model/version next, feel free to message me here — I’m adding more Z-car designs over time.

I've swapped driver and passenger side boards, sub harnesses, and bench tested both boards, the issue is always on the drivers side and there were no issues when bench testing the boards.

Looking at what you've tested already it certainly does seem like a wiring harness problem. I've recently been making some changes on my Early 260Z during which I discovered some MAJOR oxidation in my GROUND wiring. It surprised me greatly AND led me to completely rewiring the engine bay harness. Unfortunately (or fortunately), that's not where I stopped but that has nothing to do with this tale. My 260Z has lived it's entire life in Arizona where we don't see much moisture so the condition of the ground wires really surprised me - they were much more oxidized that the power or signal wiring in my harness. Continuity is one thing but amperage is key. I used to say this all the time - though usually I was talking about EFI engine harnesses - CLEAN all your connectors and check the condition of your wire. Starting with the 260Z, Nissan was using more (better) weather-tight connectors than they did in the 240's (which were not at all) but the ground wiring has many open barrel crimp connections inside the harnesses that are merely tape wrapped. I would check connector pins and sockets for corrosion first. Next thing (and perhaps the first thing) might be the turn signal switch itself. LEFT is usually the thing that goes wonky first in the switch since the lever moves the switch UP and against the gravity force. As the parts inside the switch age they don't move as positively into position. And - at this age - there is generally a lot of wear on the contact points in the switch which means deterioration and/or carbon build up. I have no idea how that would cause the stated issue but with the experience I've had dealing with Z cars I never say never...

Thanks a lot! In that case matching 240Z T-shirt is next on my list

I literally woke up at 3am last night with the answer. Before I swapped the new master cylinder in, the rear brakes worked, driving it to the brake shop after that, the rear brakes did not grab using the pedal (but do with the hand brake). That means that the drums and shoes are fine, and its the hydraulics that are at issue. Years ago, I changed the master cylinder out and the one I changed it to had a shorter cavity for the pushrod to travel through. When I pressed the brake once, they car would stop, and the brakes would permanently lock until opened the bleeder screw on the master and let the pressure out. Since the rears worked with the old master, and now don't with the new, my theory is the new master I received has a cavity that is too long for the pushrod in the booster. I told the brake shop to install the old master (which still worked if you guys remember at the beginning of this saga) because that was the perfect length for the push-rod to actuate fully. The drums aren't the reason the brake hydraulics in the rear are no longer working essentially overnight - its the new master cylinder. I will report back when I hear from them.

@jfa.series1 I know exactly which mug you ordered!!

Wow - beautiful artwork! Just ordered 2 mugs and in my favorite 240Z color. Now if we could just get a matching T-shirt - hint, hint.

So... You're asking "Why does the description of how it is SUPPOSED to work differ from the way it ACTUALLY works?" I'm not sure. I'm thinking you'd need to check with the guys who designed the thing. 🙂

We didn't learn our lesson back then. We have a similar problem now with the National Guard attacking US citizens,

With oil in the dampers, it is supposed to be difficult and slow to lift the pistons. So for proper operation, BOTH of them should have heavy resistance when you try to lift them. Sounds like you have a problem, but that problem is with the one that's easy to lift. The one that's hard to lift is the one that's working correctly.