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I may have something for you, will check later today.

Here are a couple of videos on the fuel gauge: Basically, you're not testing the gauge properly. To bench test the gauge, you need to connect 12VDC+ to the green wire, ground the black wire, and run the yellow wire through a resistor that is grounded on the other side. You should have 12VDC+ to ground at the green wire coming into the gauge when the key is in ON. There is a voltage regulator in the gauge as discussed in the videos above, and the yellow wire comes off the regulator and goes to the fuel level sender. You should measure voltage to ground at the yellow wire at the gas tank with the key in ON. When the key is first turned to the ON position, you should see about 12VDC to ground at the yellow wire. As the voltage regulator warms up, you will see the voltage fluctuating. You can also ground the yellow wire at the gas tank for a short period of time and have someone see if the needle moves on the gauge.

For you that have been following along. My 3.12L is finally in my car and home. Gosh it looks so good I’m just going to stare at it! Amazing work by Andrew Kazanis! This engine was built and done prior to a shop fire. So it’s been through a lot! I love the contrast of the stock blue block and gold zinc and black. It features. My 3.1L 10.2:1 compression ratio 88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested. LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank �Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke�Finish rod journals @ 1.8889" Thrust Finish 1.27”�R & R plugs with threaded plugs�Dynamic Balance�Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis Dsi valves Diameter: 45/36.5mm Length: 118mm, titanium retainers. Isky springs. Bonk cam. Roughly stock exhaust and intake port sizes. Vapor honed inside and out. Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods 221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift. Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc It is showing off my intake design and Efi throttle bodies as well as a bunch of my small parts.

One very common culprit is the hazard switch. It is the central clearing house that affects turn and hazard signal functions. Try cycling it several times (like 20) and see if the symptoms change or if the problem solves itself. Remove it and open it to clean the 8 contacts

Pull the bulbs out and grab a meter and start checking the sockets. Look at the FSM for wiring identification.