Leaderboard

Ummmm... The rust?

I've seen the occasional example of user/owner-added single or twin bolts through the baseplate and inner wheelarch. A kind of belt-and-braces approach that certainly would help when the baseplate 'floats' slightly above the inner wheelarch. They could also have been added at the request of scrutineers/safety inspectors. Pretty soon they were mandating welded-in cage mounts for certain race classes and this prompted some car owners to weld in sections of the factory safety bar, like this rough and ready period example:

Fresh from winters hibernation, took Z out for a short ride. Hit a mile stone of 70,000 miles. All good until I returned home and found my recently cleaned motor had oil sprayed on passenger side of motor and firewall. Found the pump decided to blow oil out of the weep hole. Over the winter I bought a new Nikki fuel pump, rebuilt the top half of the original pump. The bottom part containing the rubber shaft seal appeared to be fine so it wasn’t changed. Cleaned up the mess then removed and disassembled pump, sure enough the seal was torn.. Luckily I saved the remains of the donor fuel pump, swapped out the seal and reassembled, hopefully it last another 54 years.

I’ll check that out this evening.!!

That area is not normally an issue. Check the fresh air intake hat. It's under the cowl but can be seen from the passenger floor board looking up under the cowl. It is the more likely area to have issues. I had to remove the metal shield under my cowl to get access to work on mine and reseal around it.

They fit loosely. They drop out if you turn the cylinder upside down.

zKars 1,914 Replied: February 24 How’s it going? Good to hear from you. All the brake line fittings are M10x1.0 including the one ones on the bottom of the master. The lines them selves are 3/16 tubing. I use the copper nickel line and buy it from thestopshop.com, usually through Amazon. Jim @zKars and @Patconrecently helped me get the materials to do the job right. Make sure you use or order the M10x1.0 fitting on the copper nickel tubing. You can buy a bender or carefully bend em by hand. I had my machine shop make me a couple that I bent into shape. You can also buy straight lines already made in different lengths and bend those. You need to make sure they are square to the female receiver to make a secure leak free joint.

I LOVE the fact that the front reservoir is a bottle of bubbles!!!

I have this one on HLS30-00903.

Thanks for the notification. It sounds like HH is looking for a generic replacement spring. I may still have some stock ones but they would of course be used.

dspillman, you post anyway you want, it's a real treat to to see photos from such an early car, bring'em on.

Well that was quick. Lol

That is a really nice replica comp roll bar. I have one myself, and it is very true to original, as far as I can tell. Just for the sake of discussion: I have not seen the three through-bolts on the wheel well actually appearing on original units. Of the few pictures that I have, I don't see any with this particular feature. That said, I'm confident it will improve safety and utility that way. The hardware is also a bit different from original on the kit I have - I believe the original units were fastened using JIS bolts labeled "9". I'll defer to others with better knowledge.