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Today, Saturday April 6th 2024 is my 16th anniversary here at Classic Z Car. Didjoo guys get me flowers?

I’ll install this Monday and let you guys know how it is. I don’t think it’s made in the US but let’s hope that any company spending time to have a test sheet may actually care about quality,

Happy Anniversary Conedodger! Cliff is in charge of picking some up at a church near his house later today. My 17th anniversary of joining the group is tomorrow (4/7/2007). In lieu of flowers, please make a generous donation to your favorite parts vendor.

Small stuff in the garage. Trying to figure out what I wanted with the forward lower half of the (repaired area) south wall I decided to pegboard down to about 2', then I'm adding another 2x4 plate on the bottom to make a raised "shelf" - I need a place to store heavier odds and ends that I keep in these plastic bins. This will work out fine. The shelf is total of 8" depth, so doesn't extend in beyond the sill plate After I added the 2nd from the top 8" deep x 63" shelf, l added some more 7.5" x 22" corner shelves - I've set sheathing on top of the 1-in insulation, in between the studs, so I can use the maximum depth for the shelves (added approx 3" additional in the recess). I decided I didn't want any additional full width shelves, trying to keep this wall as open as possible. Had time to prime. I can't do anything with the other half of the lower wall, until I address the sill in that area. So that's going to just stay the way it is for the time being.

Dropped the carpets in today, meh, they're ok, the back carpet is about an 1" too short so had to paint that visible area in front of the cubbys with flat black paint so it won't be as noticeable. I loaded a few heavy tools into the back to compensate for no quarter windows, hatch glass, or muffler so I could get the rear control arms torqued.

Thanks for the details guys. @cgsheen1 @zKars When I first started messing with the window, it would not move at all. I traced that issue to the front nylon guide that was stuck frozen solid. I lubed that up and got it moving smooth and easy, and after that, I was able to get the window to move, but it still required an uncomfortable amount of force. And that's when I came here for guidance. So I'm guessing that the problem now is the regulator bent screwing with the geometry. I'll pull stuff apart and see what I can find. The taking apart will be easy. I'm more worried about the putting back together and getting stuff adjusted.

Sigh... It was a moment of weakness. Happens to everybody?

Guess you haven’t checked the front door yet!!😂😂😂

Great, thanks for sharing. I wasn't even aware this exists. It seems to be more or less the english version of the japanese book shown above, covering the same topics and differential types (R and H versions). Luckily i just found an english hardcopy version for sale and grabbed it. But also the digital version will be very helpful so long. Hat tip for the input to you guys. You just got to love this community 🙂

RWD Volvos from 85-98 (240, 740, 760, 940, 960, S90, V90) all use a similar charcoal canister (GM origin) with the same EVAP valve setup. Z version (brought forward from ZedHead's post)

Doors. yuck. After doing a BUNCH over the years I find working on them thera-puke-d*** now. CG has all the right techniques for glass removal, but you don’t “have” to remove the SS frame if you don’t want to. Do it anyway to investigate the run channel felt stuff and replace as needed. most trouble I have is putting the glass back in. Getting the regulator in the right amount of up/down-ness to get started, and remember “again” which wheel to get back in it’s matching guide track first, second etc. But to start, there are two overwhelmingly common reasons for the windows to not be rolling up and down nice. The front nylon bar on the front of the glass frame that rides in the front vertical guide channel is likely dry as a bone. Or broken……. Add some lube and see if that helps. Quick fix. Second is the regulator arms have become bent from crazy rolling pressure from owners reefing on it to overcome the friction. Once they are bent they loose the right geometry. All the arms should be FLAT and PARALLEL to each other, other than the jog at the pivot. Good luck!

I'm anxious to get and see some photos of our cars during this super hyped eclipse. We had one in 2017 and although I took some cool pictures of light shining through the tree leaves, they looked liked stars all over my yard but wow for 5 minutes. Here's the closest picture I have of what this "purkinje" is supposed to be.

So I could do this and pull the cord from underneath, right? That's a great idea. I've broken one when I was younger and it was an ordeal from what I remember. Thanks Chris.

Sure, it's just a length of thin aircraft cable looped around the pull lever that pops the hood open.

This is the manual that inline6 refers to that is posted in the resource section.

OMG you didn’t. You didn’t have enough stuff to do already. I guess L28 motor rebuild has taken a back seat. Did you already post pics on the forum or are you just leaving it to our imagination. Now you and Cliff have more in common. Well congrats…..sounds like you and POR-15 will become friends. Friends don't let friends use POR-15 without gloves…..if you don't your hands will be black for weeks, yes weeks not days.

Uh oh. Here we go. Some idiot I know, (in a moment of weakness) bought a rusty pile of early 240 junk that hasn't been on the road since the late 70's. He's been working on it to get it to the point where he can drive it. Those are all true words.