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The gas gauge on my '73 was not responding, other than the needle coming up to "E" when the key is on, no matter how much fuel is in the tank. I finally clipped the two wires together at the sending unit and the gauge jumped right up to "F". I pulled the sending unit (new) and "Surprise, Surprise" (thanks, Gomer)...the little screw that holds the float arm shaft tight to the rheostat contact arm was loose...! I never checked it before it's initial installation and it was a head-scratcher for others as well as myself. Feeling foolish in North Georgia...

Uh oh. Here we go. Some idiot I know, (in a moment of weakness) bought a rusty pile of early 240 junk that hasn't been on the road since the late 70's. He's been working on it to get it to the point where he can drive it. Those are all true words.

Sure, it's just a length of thin aircraft cable looped around the pull lever that pops the hood open.

OMG you didn’t. You didn’t have enough stuff to do already. I guess L28 motor rebuild has taken a back seat. Did you already post pics on the forum or are you just leaving it to our imagination. Now you and Cliff have more in common. Well congrats…..sounds like you and POR-15 will become friends. Friends don't let friends use POR-15 without gloves…..if you don't your hands will be black for weeks, yes weeks not days.

They very proudly proclaim that the carpets are made in USA, which I saw as a big positive when looking for a supplier.

Wait a second….. when did you get a 240? You just tried to slip that by or did you get a new toy during my absence? I’ve replaced the glass in my 280 and removed the external stainless frame. It wasn’t hard. Are the internals rusty?

Dave stopped by yesterday and dropped off the new carpets and mats, these were purchased direct from the manufacture. More detail than I thought there would be, I haven't tried them out in the car yet, want to let them relax for a few days first. The under pad is nice and thick. The mats are quite nice.

Doors. yuck. After doing a BUNCH over the years I find working on them thera-puke-d*** now. CG has all the right techniques for glass removal, but you don’t “have” to remove the SS frame if you don’t want to. Do it anyway to investigate the run channel felt stuff and replace as needed. most trouble I have is putting the glass back in. Getting the regulator in the right amount of up/down-ness to get started, and remember “again” which wheel to get back in it’s matching guide track first, second etc. But to start, there are two overwhelmingly common reasons for the windows to not be rolling up and down nice. The front nylon bar on the front of the glass frame that rides in the front vertical guide channel is likely dry as a bone. Or broken……. Add some lube and see if that helps. Quick fix. Second is the regulator arms have become bent from crazy rolling pressure from owners reefing on it to overcome the friction. Once they are bent they loose the right geometry. All the arms should be FLAT and PARALLEL to each other, other than the jog at the pivot. Good luck!

My starter arrived. Looks pretty good. Came with a test sheet

Would you mind showing exactly what you did for this?

It's not too foolish to expect a new part to work. At least you had the good sense to examine the sending unit carefully, and you could fix it. Nope, not foolish.

IIRC it was an early 90's pathfinder. direct replacement only difference is the bottom is sealed but for a large port that is just left open. I presume you could run a large dia hose there if you wanted to relocate but that would be totally not needed since the orig was wide open. If you go to a JY to get one just bring along a mighty vac (hand held vacuum pump for bleeding brakes) and make sure the control line will hold a vacuum. As to whether or not this will solve the gas smell I have no idea. It may solve a non funtioning canister if the canister on you car is not working. May is the operative word, as to how it works

This is the manual that inline6 refers to that is posted in the resource section.

I actually thought that the float may have been compromised and filling with gasoline. Nice to have ended up the way it did. Now back to the wiper issue...!

Get him!!!

The weatherstrip kit continues to be elusive (my first order, via Datsun Garage was last July). Today was the day MSA told me they'd be receiving kits. I spoke to Precision, who supplies them, and they told me that they'd be shipping MSA half the number they'd ordered. MSA then told me I was in the "upper middle" of their orders, so they thought I should be OK. I asked them again today and they told me that they received enough kits to fulfill orders they'd received "before the end of January". The wording made it sound like I wouldn't be getting one of the kits (next ones forecast for April 23rd), but my order was placed on January 30th, so I've asked for clarification. At this point they're very aware that it's the part holding up completion (and apparently tutorial development)!

They'll relax alright, anxious to lay down too like me You have some Alabama air in your shop now! That place is about 30 minute drive from my house, Anniston, Alabama.

Read my post from 5/1/2023. Tried everything vibration would not go away. The stock (I said stock) Z suspension control arms with rubber bushing were designed for max 28lbs -30lbs tire air pressure on narrow tires. You're probably running a wider tire with a manufacturer suggested air pressure of 32lbs or 36lbs. I don't race but have been told most car drivers will reduce air pressure on the track. So just reduce your air pressure to 24lbs in the fronts and 24lbs in the rear and see if the vibration goes away. If so, begin to add pressure 2lbs at a time to find the tipping point with the tire pressure / suspension and the vibration. I'm running 25lbs fronts and 26lbs in rears on the street (15 60 205), no vibration. Is the car harder to steer at low speeds, yes but the steering wheel is much more enjoyable at driving speeds. Took it a step further and had the wheels (rim), tire, hub and rotor dynamically balanced (single wheel dyno) on the car. Downside, wheel must remain in the same position on the car, mark on the hub and no rotation. Good luck.

Noted, going to be removing the wheels and looking into everything sometime next week. My wheels look like the lug holes have been repair sometime in the past I'll have to post some pictures of that. The only thing I have yet to replace in the front at this point is the wheels and tires (going to swap wheels and tires with a friend in two weeks if it's still isn't resolved), the steering rack, and the wheel hubs. Still haven't got rid of the vibration to this day. Also even though I replaced my struts and have lowering springs, not sure if it can still be that because if the road is perfectly smooth the wheel doesn't vibrate at all, but if there is any very minor road imperfections is when it vibrates at nearly any speed so it varies with road surface.

Have you checked the fuel hard line for obstructions, blown it out? FI clamps are fine to use.

Seems unlikely that 0.4 mm would be a factor but it should be easy to find out. There should be damage on the inside edge of the wheel where it was crushed against the hub weld. If you see damage, you should be able to file away 0.2 mm around the inner edge of the wheel hole to create a clearance chamfer easily. A few swipes with a round file. The pattern on the back of the wheel is also a good indicator of seating. The spot behind the lug nuts is where the force is. https://www.ebay.com/itm/186288432645?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fN_3lKgHSjG&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thought I would give a continuation and update to what I have found. I may have found the solution to my problem! Years ago my friend gave me his Enkei 92 Wheels from his Datsun 240z and this is what I have been running since then. I have just discovered the 280z hub bore size is 73mm while the Enkei 92 wheel bore size is 72.6mm!!! My wheels are not 100% flush against the hubs is what it looks like I am seeing here! After replacing nearly everything I think this might be it, but what is confusing is other people have used these wheels without problems apparently like my friend. Can someone give any insight? I might buy a hub centric wheel spacer to make sure this is the problem before buying other wheels as I just bought Watanabe wheels but they don't fit currently over my brake calipers and even then it shows Watanabe wheels are 63mm or 70mm so that's saying these wont fit either?