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Gotta luv the Safari Gold theme of this discussion!!!

Mine was the same as yours, here's a pic from my 7/70 when I tagged the front harness just before I removed it.

I drove it yesterday evening , probably 30 miles, and to work and back again today. No hiccups. Yeah the coils heating up and then opening the circuit makes sense in hindsight, because as soon as it cools down electrically speaking then the circuit would be engage hence the tying in with me blipping the throttle, which was obviously coincidental to the relay coil cooling off enough to reengage the pump. That's what I'm assuming anyway.

I suspect the rubber seal on the vent flap is gone. When it's intact it adds friction to the closed position so it won't open up on it's own

Alcatraz Swimming Team I sure do like my #918. It's like the #110 I had for awhile, the lighting is the main determination, red, orange?

I had an orange 1972 240 back in 1984. I really liked that colour and thought about having this one repainted orange. Granny and I both like Safari Gold, and it didn't seem to make sense to change the colour of a car that was being kept mostly original, so we stayed with Gold. It certainly is a unique '70's colour!

I like the safari gold theme as well, but if you were including mine it is a repaint in a '71 corvette color, Ontario Orange. Mine is originally 918 orange and will be going back to that color. In the pic of mine you can see the original 918 orange in the engine bay. It is funny how much the front does look like Safari Gold. Here's a Ontario Orange comparison pic with my repaint and an OE corvette, it was close but not perfect.

Added the three sec primer circuit after work today. I could actually make it anytime duration but 3 seconds seems more than long enough. Harness tucks neatly up under the dash YT Vid

Hope that was it. Here's what mine looked like. I think that the theory is that the insulation breaks down on the coil wiring, causing a weaker magnetic field. A short between wires but not a short directly to ground. Fewer circuits around the core. Can't remember exactly what I was testing or saw with those leads. Should have measured resistance through the coils. But it seemed to be heat-related so hard to reproduce. Probably wouldn't have seen anything. Maybe if I had hit it with a heat gun.

I didn't even know that those holes were wiring passthroughs, let alone the fact that they're supposed to be fitted with grommets 😶. My 240-Z learning experience continues.

The new headlights arrived so that let me finish of the rest of the front, also some new badges. I did find the home for those 2 rubber grommets I mentioned back in post #239, there for the front wiring harness.

Just a very quick update from the Bodyshop: I got some photos of the Mizukami Auto OEM optional rollbar replica testfit: Looks good on the first glimpse, but i will go and check out the car close-up in two weeks and see the progress on the other bodywork too.

There's a few possibilities. The nozzles could be partially down due to misadjusted choke cables, misaligned choke linkage or sticking nozzles. The next possibility is the float levels are too high. The easiest method for checking the float levels I've found is to remove the domes and pistons. raise the nozzles to their top position (0 turns) and lower the nozzles 9 1/2 to 10 turns. If you want to be precise 9 5/8 turns down, that puts the fuel level 3/8" below the carb bridge. The fuel level should be close to the top of the nozzles but it doesn't have to be exact. Raise the nozzles back to 2 1/2 turns down for a near stock engine at near sea level.