Leaderboard

Dude. Am I going blind? Or my garage lighting is severely lacking. The shaved threads were there the whole time. I dunno how I missed that. Anyways, carryon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Getting ready to weld the compression rod boxes back on to the new front rails. Even though I have the factory dimensions I deliberately waited to have the Apex Engineered K frame in hand to "cheat" and help line everything up... Funny thing about letting a project sit ... I decided I didn't like how I had done the compression box supports so ... more surgery .... Also... the Apex rear subframe interferes with the spare tire well... so I notched it and roughed in the patch as well ... and finally...rebuilt the floor supports from 14 Gauge sheet metal...belt and suspenders 😉 Just about out of Clecos so going to have to crack out the welder and then loop back and finish up the remaining patches...

You've been conditioned to expect problems. Reprogram!

Do you think you only have 4 pounds of vacuum (I'm assuming at idle?)? Maybe you should check. I have much more vacuum than that at idle. At less than 36.3psi MINUS current vacuum pressure. (you seem to still act (forgive me if I'm wrong) as if fuel pressure is a static (constant) value - and it's not - not with a running engine. It changes by the millisecond with changes in the manifold pressure (which changes every millisecond). You can't really catch it without sensors and equipment and probably data logging - and you don't really need to. (I can watch it on my boost gauge (MAP gauge) or on my laptop with the Megasquirt software and I can datalog MAP and FP - most people can't, and don't really need to) IF you turn on the fuel pump - while the engine IS NOT running - and you have fuel pressure of ~36.3psi, you're jake, move along. OR if you pull the vacuum reference tubing OFF the FPR and you have fuel pressure of ~36.3, Bob's your Uncle. move along. You've never said you get those values. I can't help but think that you're focusing on the wrong thing here (while still feeling that your fuel pressure is all kinds of wrong - BUT - IF your fuel pressure is actually what you state above, your engine should be running RICH, not lean...)) Have you checked the filters on the injectors themselves for debris? You pulled the fuel rail? The injectors all squirt and squirt the same? Have you tried isolating a troubled cylinder by removing the injector lead and noting the change or lack thereof in engine operation? (which you should have done very first) That's just a start. I really only entered this thread to RANT about the misinformation surrounding EFI FUEL PRESSURE and I'm sure everyone agrees that I've already ranted way more than enough...

They were installed in Japan, but the wiring is there in your car, just like for the fog lights. I think the NOS supply of step lights was exhausted a few years back.

Last week i got a blurry photo from my Panelbeater, asking me to visit them again, since they had revamped work in my Car. I thought the probably had done a few welds and wanted to discuss the next steps. I couldn't have been more wrong. When i turned up, i quickly realized they had been quitely working on the car for the last few weeks and made huge progress! The car even got it's own dedicated workspace now in another building, which they set up only to finish the project without having to move stuff around all the time. They have increased the manpower and got a new teamleader and they seem to push things a bit now. Which i'm more than happy to see. So today i realized they had completely replaced the outer and inner side steps on the RH side. The previous Bodyshop already did this once, but he made all the panels himself since no good replacements were available back then. Since the new green KVF panels are much closer to the original ones (and strangely fit much better on this side than they did on the other side), they replaced it all again and improvad a few areas. On the RH side, the floorpans were finished and the seat rails installed back. They also installed the Japanese Footrest, which is designed for RHD cars, but also fits nice on LHD ones. On my input they also installed the OEM-style "reinforcement-cups" (thanks for showing me these, guys!), on the opposing side of the floorpan. The marked area got fixed later. The previous bodyshop had cut it for whatever reason (probably to install the floorpans) and never fnished it properly. The original battery tray was not too bad, but a bit messed up to be fair, so they replaced this one too. (picture still shows the old one): They also realized that the previous panelbeater has done a bad job around the Fuel filler area, so they reconstructed everything from scratch. You can tell quite a bit of work went into this. (and they also re-did the whole inner part from scratch!). The cas filler door now closes very flush: Aside from a dozen of small areas (which are super time consuming), they also prepared my replacement NOS rear quarter panel, as the original one had a ton of bondo and filler on it from pevious rust repairs. They fixed a transport-damage dent, closed the US-spec rear side-marker hole and modified the C-pillar Vent / logo area from "Series 1" to the newer version. Here is the C-pillar air vent outlet which they removed from the original rear quarter (see hole and bondo on the original rear quarter in the background) and installed on the new quarter panel: The new taillight cover clips and mounts got installed: Then the big work began: The roof skin transplantation. Since the original frame was quite good, they just sanded it down and painted it with rust protection and went for a skin-only replacement, which makes sense. I think one should only cut down the original structure if absolutely necessary. Then they went to work at the rear quarter. It was in quite good shape underneath, so they just cleaned it, removed some surface rust and painted it with rust-protection as well. The Outer wheel arch however was a different story. You can see how many repairs happened here in the history of the car. Almost like the rings on a tree... This is the master at Work when i just arrived. you can see the roof is ready to get welded back in, and the rear quarter subframe has also been prepared. Next up is the replacement of the wheel arch before the quarter panel goes back in. After that it looks "finished" but then the Rollcage needs to go in and all the small cosmetic details and gaps need to be aligned and fixed so it will take some time Also the original bodylines, which a previous owner "cleaned" need to be hammered back in. All these little details require a lot of work and skilled masters of their craft. but will be well worth the result. Maybe not financially. but the fact i am "saving" a messed up car and bring it back to original glory is worth more to me. I'm super excited about the progress and really looking forward to my next visit mid march after they return back from their well deserved skiing-holidays. Oh and i have some exciting news from my side too. so stay tuned for another nice update this week.

I bought the same struts from Rock Auto June 2022 and I dont think I had that problem. That is something I would have remembered for sure! I think I would try and contact KYB, if that is possible.

I'd go with Pennzoil Synchromesh or Redline MT-90. They're both better than typical manual transmission fluid. Redline has been proven in many situations, solving grinding problems. Search on the forum and you'll find stories. If you use Driven you might be the first. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497794-go-80w-90-conventional-gl-4-gear-oil.html https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/other-oils-fluids-fuel/manual-transmission-fluids-axle-oils/synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid.html

Pretty much, new struts will open a faster but will be harder to close. I think the general rule of thumb is, as long as the hatch doesn't close under its own weight then the struts are working normally.

Thanks, that is a new switch and works the interior light properly. I think to properly diagnose it, I need to review the wiring diagram and test the wires on the switch and steering column. I just have to get motivated to lay under there. It isn't getting under the dash that is the problem, it's getting out!

Be careful of what you ask for. With them comes the challenge of running power thru the wall of the A-pillar and into the front wall of the door, something that has to reliably deal with the flexing of the door opening and closing.

I think I can live without them!

It is a challenge to get a static document like a wiring diagram to match production changes. The wiring diagrams we have in the FSMs were probably created before the first car rolled off the assembly line for that year. Today we are spoiled by being able to open up a CAD program and fix an error. I don't want to think about what it was like when you had to create these with vellum. I have seen significant differences elsewhere. In the 73 diagrams, it shows several extra wires for the intermittent wiper amplifier. That was confusing. In the 75 manual, it shows the seatbelt interlock relay that was eliminated just prior to the start of the 75 MY production. Remember that the North American 260Z had an extended production year as Nissan was preparing to roll out the 280Z. During that timeframe, the US government walked back the requirement for the seat belt interlock requirements, and I'm sure Nissan yanked that abomination out of the wiring as soon as possible. Then there are errors that crept in, like the representation of the ignition relay for the 280Z that shows two wires going to the same place.

I guess it would help if I had the right wiring diagram for my year! 3/72. My seatbelt buzzer and key buzzer are the same (no key buzzer on steering column) and the buzzer is near the fuse box. The wiring diagram I have is for an early model without the seatbelt light. At least now I have a fighting chance.

No. I had KYB's and the shafts were D-shaped. Drop-in replacements. Maybe KYB is cost-cutting, or made a mistake, or maybe you got counterfeits.

I have a problem with both 😒

The ignition switch buzzer is controlled by the push-button switch on the driver's side A-pillar. It's possible your switch is not operating properly - the switch closes when the door is open to complete the circuit for the buzzer and overhead light. Pop the switch from the A-pillar and check it out.

I could have started with 1500 but it would have taken a lot longer to get through the orange peel.😄 I have some Meguiars #7 and a black foam pad I've never used, maybe I'll do some tests, Thanks. I got a bunch of stuff installed today, This is the only effective way I've found to install the T/C rods, come to think of it, I might have picked it up from someone here.

Gents, I wanted to get on here and let you all know briefly why I’ve been gone and that I’m back. I’ll keep it brief and if you want to more details send me a message. About 8-9 months ago I had a medical incident that was a wake up call for me. It ended up with my in the ER with a doctor standing over me with cardiac paddles telling me they’re going to have to smock me. My job is 100% contingent on my health. Shortly after I notified the company I was placed on medical hold, and have been in this status until recently. This medical event was a watershed moment for me and I spent some time reflecting on my lifestyle and then came up with a game plan. I determined it was time to “Reset my life”. I had to reevaluate all my actions that impact me and make changes. This medical event opened up a host of other boxes with the FAA drilling down into every medical aspect of me. I had many doctors visits, saw specialists and found I had some blood work items out of normal ranges too. I had to do a couple sleep studies and so on. It was painful! It didn’t help I ran into incompetent people along the way which made me realize how broken our medial system is. I can dive into that later but because of incompetence and financial incentives by secondary medical providers who were calling themselves “experts” I was going to have to do treatment I didn’t need or want, So I had to become my own advocate and spent countless hours researching and educating myself. I read several book by “real” experts and had great advice from friends who are physicians. I became a pseudo expert is some medical areas and with the actions I implemented I turned everything around, I’d go see my doctor and we’d discuss items that he really knew nothing about. I was shocked at how our medical system works and how it is incentivized. So what did I do to reset my life. I changed everything; my Diet, Exercise, Nutrition , Sleep, and Stress; it all had to be changed. Because I didn’t have time to figure out exactly what I needed to do I used the “cast a wide net approach”. Do it all and hopefully i fix these issues. This ultimately worked, it wasn’t easy. I had to be disciplined and methodical and I was. In this time, I’ve lost 24 pounds, ( I wasn’t really heavy to begin with), I exercise for 60-90 mins 5 days a week (running 15-20 miles a week), taking multiple vitamins and supplements, track my sleep and O2 saturation every night, and removed all stressful activities I can. I stopped drinking alcohol, removed all sugar from my diet, The second order effects are many. First I feel better than I did 10 years ago, I’m never tired, I have more mental clarity, I dropped my LDL cholesterol 70 pts without medication, blood work is now normal, I sleep great. I stopped working on my car during this time for the most part. I did a little here and there but it hasn’t had anything really done to it. I do drive it now and then. I had to refocus my life and that meant 100% commitment to the things I determined were more important after evaluating everything. The tenants were: Family, Faith, Friendships, Spiritual and Mental Heath and overall personal Wellness. Everything else was placed on hold. The bottoms line is this long post is I’m back, I’m better, I’m going back to work in 2 weeks. This event was a blessing in disguise. That’s my story!

I couldn't find it on the 72 wiring diagram, so I'm going to assume it was done the same was as is shown in the 73 wiring diagram. The 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat switch and to the driver seat belt switch. If there is a passenger (or heavy object) in the seat, the 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat belt switch. If the belt is not latched, the 12VDC+ will go to the neutral switch. Whenever the transmission is in neutral, the 12VDC+ will go to the seat belt warning lamp.

This point about Nissan's efforts in WRC and IMC is IMHO very much on topic, and I'm happy to contribute. In my research for my exhibit this past weekend, it was quite interesting to see exactly how large an effort Nissan put into competing at the EAS specifically. Barely a decade after the Mobilgas Trial, Nissan showed up to the EAS with a veritable fleet of P510s, and took 6 out of the top 13 spots. They then won it in 1970, 71, 73, 79, 80, 81, and 82, with the last few years arguably being Nissan's most successful rallying years ever. As is indicative from the enormous capital resources Nissan must have poured into the Works teams, they clearly coveted winning specific FIA rallies. Now, I myself am not in a position to say whether that was a smart or poor use of marketing Yen from an economic standpoint, but I'm very glad they made the effort! I made up some rudimentary overview slides for the exhibit, highlighting 8 rally cars and their achievements, which can be downloaded from my site for any who are interested in that sort of thing. Here's what the exhibit looked like, with pictures attached. I'll add at this point that I'm absolutely 100% certain, based on the receipts in my possession and the sleepless nights over the past few days, additionally factoring in the mental toll I endured and cash outlay I spent in getting this exhibit ready, including hotel and travel costs, opportunity costs at work, and family time at home- that producing this exhibit was a certifiably INSANELY POOR DECISION from an economic and mental health standpoint. But hey, I had an absolute blast at the show - it was probably a unique opportunity in my lifetime to do something like this - so the marginal utility was sky-high!

Some of the new content that was written for the show below. Thanks again to @HS30-H for editorial services and providing a few pictures.