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This week I met two very important people for us. Mr.Miyazaki, a former member of vehicle test group for Europe and also did aero dynamics analysis for S30. And Mr. Uemura, a former member of Kaku - U team (test drive in US & Canada) and also he designed general layout of S30 chassis and suspension components. The picture is Mr. Miyazaki, he told me a lot of new things which we have never heard of before. One of them is, each our S30 can be tracked down by chassis number to see when it was made. Not only that, it can be tracked down by chassis number to see it was made in daylight time zone or midnight time zone. This story is like this, Mr.Miyazaki said to me, “ one day I visited Nissan Shatai around 2:00 a.m. midnight to see how workers were doing at the assembly line. Nissan got complaints from customers about insufficient looking of rear deck vinyl trim. It was not only a single complaint, one after another. AND ALL OF THEM WERE CARS MADE AT MIDNIGHT. I was surprised, a quite young girl was working and crawling and sitting in a rear deck to sticking the vinyl trims. She was an only worker who did the job at the assembly line. I felt sorry for her, I couldn’t say harsh words to her”. Then I asked Mr.Miyazaki how did you know it was happened at midnight, Mr.Miyazaki said “Nissan Shatai has the data, each car can be tracked down by the chassis number. In this case, interior trim section had three or four time zone, each time zone they recorded chassis number they worked” Can we see when our cars were served at the assembly line? Mr.Miyazaki said “they might still have the record, I think” I hope it too! Kats

Looks like overheating and/or lack of oil. Are they all like that? p.s. I wouldn't call that piston "slap". Slap is from loose pistons. That one got too tight.

Not an expert. But, barely lower is what you'd get if the valve head was bent on the stem. Since everything is back together it might be worthwhile to pull the spark plugs and spin the engine by hand to see what the valve is doing. Does it get stuck or does it move freely. Then, if you're brave, spin it with the starter with the plugs out. Don't forget to disconnect the coil, or use a remote starter with the key off. You could also measure cylinder pressures if it spins freely. If the valve is not closing completely you'll get a zero on that one.

It wasn't too much of a disaster, Mori san was happy to supply a single piston (and the bore cleaned up ok with the flexi hone).

Took care of the clutch slave hose & fork boot today New boot in place line attached, slave attached bled by putting bleeder line into fluid, then make sure reservoir is full & just stroke the pedal about 10 times, done

Still don't have the rear back together - I forgot I needed to clean (power washed, dried, rinsed with turps, wire brushed) & apply the 3M stone guard (1 can) & Undercoat (1 can) first Did the back off the Gas tank while I was at it

Just make sure the bolt is also isolated. The washers need to have a shoulder so the rail bracket hole doesn't ground against the bolt. Ideally, the washers would be pretty thick, but that will throw the rail alignment off. The better method would require a donor rail where a section of each vertical support is cut out and replaced with an isolating material to keep the heat from transferring up the support. Think of an exhaust hanger, but in compression rather than tension and rigid material rather than rubber. Once isolated from heat conduction, the rail could be properly wrapped to isolate it from radiant heat. Right now, the sleeve only holds the conducted heat in.

As long as S1 and L1 line up color-wise, your high and low beams will be correct.

I should clarify that I can move that rocker arm into place over the valve guide (lash) and push it down to seat it in place, but it springs back up. So, that tells me the valve is stuck?

I think I found the source of the noise. See pic. One of the rocker arms is not seated in the valve rocker guide (term from the repair manual, also pictured).

Actually, from 73 on, the wipers should single swipe with the washer. (If you hold down on the button, they should keep swiping.) It's probably the same with the 70-72, but I'm not sure if that's a function of wiper amplifier. While there looks to be 9 wires going to the amplifier, there are only 7 in reality as there is only one 12VDC+ (B terminal) and one ground (E terminal) on the amplifier. So as the notes say in the picture, when you press on the washer button, you are completing the ground leg on the washer motor. At the same time, you are grounding the W terminal on the amplifier and providing 12VDC+ on the I terminal. That should get the wiper motor to swipe. I attached a PDF where I highlighted the wires going to the I (Blue), B (Red), and W (Green) circuits. Now for the final testing. The car should be off for this test. Plug in the combo switch and unplug the LW wire from the washer motor. Have someone hold the washer button. While the button is pushed in, measure resistance to ground from the LW wire at the wiper motor. It should be less than 1 ohm. (Note the scale if you have an autoranging meter.) Now for the more PITA test. With the car still off, get up to the relay panel on the passenger kickpanel. Unplug both connectors on the amplifier. Have someone hold the washer button while you measure continuity between the LR wire on one connector to the blue wire on the other connector. That should be less than 1 ohm. 1974 Wiper Motor Circuit.pdf

So gang mine arrived today via Amazon - happy to report the Innovate one seems to be genuine!

A brake fluid leak from the MC into the brake booster into inlet #6 caused this a few years ago. It doesn't take much to remove the oil leading to heat leading to expansion and more heat and expansion!

And again…

Not sure yet if the pins themselves spin but the conrod moves freely on the pins, will get out the measuring tools tomorrow and get some hard numbers. I was told something about the oil pressure sender not being in place on start up and the oil gushed out, and I have seen signs of gasoline flooding the cylinders, washing the carbon off and pooling as in these pics so the gas would have washed any lubrication off the walls.

Expanded the tailpipe to get a tight fit for the tip, set it close to the bumper depth, to hopefully avoid exhaust discoloration of the taillamp

There's a nice - circular, historical - link between the Castrol brand and 'our' cars too, as they were big sponsors on some of the Works rally team cars in period:

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