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Our fuels are also vastly different today! They are designed to be more volatile so they burn cleaner. That volatility makes them more prone to vapor lock at lower fuel pressures. Its part of the reason modern cars run higher rail pressures

To follow up on this, here's the above-pictured cooler as it survives today. 50 year gap between photos:

Ethanol definitely raises the volatility and it's also hard on a fuel system not designed for alcohol. I try to avoid Ethanol in my boat, mower and small engines. It just doesn't age as well as straight gas does

Bad weather last 3 weeks, battery was flat. Time to start today and drive some.. Saw the return hose dripping, replaced all the rubber fuel lines and oem filter. I did have some fuel smell in the cabin with the windows down, thats gone now, so it was that. 😴

Piston pins are pressed, not free floating? Do the piston pins move freely? Do you have a dial bore gauge and some mic's? What is the ID of the bore versus the OD of the piston?

I didn't realize there was a switch to view signatures let alone a way of generating one. I've written a short sig for now.

Made some good progress on the engine harness today. Im hoping I’ll get that done this weekend. Deleting the circuits for the voltage regulator and the throttle opener and all of the related bits freed up a fair number of terminals in the colored connectors. I contemplated consolidating them but decided against it. Better to stick with the factory positions for each wire, even though I made my own diagram and labeled everything. I also decided to hard wire the fuel pump A and B harnesses into the engine and dash harnesses rather than have so many connectors. With the increased wire gauge, AC, and extra relays under the dash I need all the space I can get. No pictures today. It just looks like piles of wire right now. Oh, by the way, @SteveJ, does that relay you posted need anything special due to the negative switching on the headlights? I read somewhere that it has a common ground on the signal circuits, which makes me think it would have to be wired differently than it may be design to be wired.

My '72 has old opaque looking plastic wraps on the lines through the supports. Maybe the newer zinc plating melted or were lost somehow that away?

You don't need to remove the button. The switch contacts are at the other end of the switch. Here's a short video showing the contacts. You'll need to get between the copper arms and tabs to clean those surfaces. There are 3 screws that hold the parts together. Be careful removing the screws on the side because there are small plastic washers that insulate the circuit. Once you have the contacts removed, you can polish them with a dremel w/wire brush, emery paper, or dip them in vinegar for a short time.

I'll need to figure out how to get to the button on the end of the wiper stalk to clean up its contacts. I might need to table this issue until fall when I attack other issues with the dashboard. As for the sprayer motor, it is new and will spray when I power it directly from the battery.

Here's another thing that didn't work. It helped a little, but didn't completely get rid of the stumbling engine problem after idling in traffic in hot weather. I wrapped the fuel lines in DEI's Vapor Lock Sleeve hoping to fix the problem. Not quite the solution, still looking. And it looks funky!

TJC1969, The knowledge here is amazing! Finding pictures or examples of these cups was very difficult. Once I had gotten all my answers from everyone here, I ended up cutting out a section and welding in a new section with a hole already pre-drilled. I then used the cups I found laying in my garage. The cups had to come off my first generation Camaro (1967-1969) or off my sons 67 Chevelle. They were almost perfect circumferance wise and just required the hole in the center to be drilled out to the proper size. I welded them in place and reassembled. The car has been on the road for a couple of years now. No problems whatsoever. Since the car is a daily driver for my son, I did not want to take a chance of one of those bars snapping, so we went with rubber on both sides. I hope this helps. I will look for more pictures to post. Camaro-guy

Mine weren't as bad as yours so I just removed the old bushing cups and made new ones. If you want to save that mount you're going to have to cut out that rusty hole and weld in some new plate then re drill the hole, I think it is about 8-9 gauge on that tension rod mount.

Zed Head, I have a leak, seems like it could be pan gasket, but not sure. Its the pass side, rear of the pan, does not look to be from the weep hole of the bell housing but not sure about that. I have ordered the rear main seal, the side seals, and a pan gasket (all OE Nissan). should be here in about a week. Since I plan to pull the trans anyway to swap in the 5 speed, I was thinking the seal maybe the source of the leak. Much of my research has folks saying replace anyway if I am already pulling the trans. So the rear main for sure. I was thinking as long as I am pulling the pan to see if the gasket is the issue I may as well replace the side seals. So I do plan to do all but maybe not a the same time. I was thinking of the pan and side seals 1st just to see if that stops the leak. When I pull the trans it would be a good time to inspect the clutch/flywheel/rear main, I assume I will be able to look at it and determine if the seal is leaking but as mention before even if not I suppose it makes since to replace it, unless it looks brand new. I figure I will know better once its apart. the plan is to replace the clutch and get the flywheel machined or replace with new. found these videos that were helpful. clutch rear main

Are you replacing the rear main bearing cap seal, or just the round crankshaft seal? Or both?