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Also, Nissan very kindly supplied us with orientation clues on the lens itself. If the lamp unit is mounted correctly, the arrow will point to the front of the car and the 'RH' or 'LH' script will be legible and not upside down. RH and LH of these cars is as viewed from the driver's seat. Simple.

I filled the back ones and just put stickers over the front ones. I also removed all the wires that weren't needed.

That's one hell of a big marker lamp if it's work 0.1 sec per lap. 🙂 Maybe 0.001 sec per lap.

I got the engine and trans pulled this morning, up to the shop on the engine stand. Dave, looks like you got your moneys worth out of the clutch, the release bearing was kind of crunchy, not sure the flywheel can be saved either. All the lobes on the cam are in very nice condition, no real wear, underneath 50+ years of grease and dirt is some of the assembly line marker paint.

Very interesting. I suspect the lens you pictured is unique to the Euro export vehicles. It looks like the IKI # is 5005, all of the lenses I've worked with are IKI 5004 as are the lamp bodies. Our North American versions also specify SAE PIA69 at the other end, and some but not all have DOT just above the SAE. Ours have no other lettering on the lens surface. The orientation of the raised IKI 5004 is opposite of yours. The RH / LH designations are found on the underside of the rubber adapter. I am just getting underway on assembling some sets of refurbed markers.

Hey guys, back again with a new project! I'll let Dave fill you in on all the cars history but over the next nine months will tear her down and address all the issues that haven't been tackled already. From what I understand, over the last couple of decades Dave has been working slowly restoring individual parts and doing some body work. He has done some very nice work as you will see, for right now I'm going to take stock of what still has to be done and make a plan for this winter when I'll bring it into the shop for rust surgery. At first glance it has rust in all the usual areas but overall is a good candidate to become a very nice driver. After we backed it down off of the flat bed and into its spot, I opened the door and was greeted by that lovely musty old car smell, dried mould, stale gas with a hint of mouse pee, Glorious! I hadn't realized how much I missed that scent. Just a few pics to start with and many more to follow.

Thank you, I'll let you know if end up needing it.

Haven't read the details but if you're planning a CX axle conversion you'll want to take good measurements if you're using aftermarket CV axles. Apparently they often have longer compressed lengths than the factory CV axles. People have had problems. Don't forget to use the axle shaft as the center for machining when you convert to hub-centric. Since Nissan used lug-centric they would have no reason to set a tight tolerance on the rough cut of the "hub".

It's a 3-screw round top. 1972 only.

It's a later mis-transcription of 'Rim'. 1970 C-187 Japanese market factory parts manual gives: 26182-E4100 RIM-side flasher lamp.

You really don't mess around! Awesome to see the engine coming out. Were you able to do a compression test before pulling it? I did a couple two years ago, but didn't trust the results, which weren't consistent with each other. Can you tell whether that's the original clutch? It definitely looks to be at the end! I found quite a bit of the original marker paint when I started cleaning it up a few years ago. The car had clearly not had much done to it before I got it, and I didn't touch it. Before it started to deteriorate from lack of maintenance, the engine was really strong. Hopefully it soon will be again!

This is also a good resource for comparison of needles http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

Some time back I found a site that has a "0.100" SU needle search interface". Teglerizer.com/cgi-bin/needle100db.cgi. If the page appears blank, scroll down to the bottom.

Boat anchors, far from it! Looking at https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60309-were-bringin-back-the-flat-tops/?&page=8#comments HMB46 needles, depending on market (and what has been found so far) are N61, N62 (North American found) and parts microfiche (Europe) N56A, and I have pulled out N57 marked needles. I suspect HMB46 needles could fit into the HJG46W round tops... whether they work....?