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There was definitely an observable transition/evolution from open-ended wheel nuts to the chrome domed-end wheel nuts during 1971. Here's that 1970 RAC car (it is 'TKS 33 SA 696' by the way) again. Definitely open-enders:

Just got an email from resurrected classics. They have repro fenders, hatch, etc in stock. No clue as to the quality, but I was unable to find a fender from anyone else in stock when I was looking. I ended up making one out of two. No affliation with the company, except I have bought stuff from them that was good quality. Just thought I would share in case someone else was looking for them.

Thanks for the information and links!

Hey Ferg, I have "fixed" my 240z between 1998 and 2000, i had a accident at work and needed a car as my boss putted me after 13 years on the street.. (I had a company car) and the 240z was a hobby.. it failed in 23 years just twice and it was because of no fuel in it and a under hood light that had a burnt out bulb, and it came back to live through a shaking car and draint the battery! What i want to say: these s30's are one of the most reliable cars there are around. i always laugh when people with " modern " cars have all kind of trouble with theire cars.. As these s30 have a electric plan that fits on a A4 piece of paper there is not much that can go wrong! And when i see what some people have to pay for theire garage bill pfff.. Crazy Money!! 🤬

I don't have a big A**e.. 🤣 and do have a "rallycar 240z" set of seats from the german fabricator König.. they make seats for bulldozers and tractors and busses, cars you name it! But i stilll haven't installed them yet.. maybe when i restore the 240z again haha.. Maybe someone sat in them twice haha came out of a showmodell car.

Those look good, but with my wider backside I need flatter seats more like the original.

Hi, In 2020 I replaced my original 240Z seats with Subaru BRZ seats. Here is the link: Selling my Z this spring/summer, so will put the "near perfect" seats back in the car. I'm assuming the new owner would want original over replacement. Good Luck, Nate

Good info - I'll have to re-calibrate my own thinking on the evolution of Works wheels and their likely dissimilarity to standard issue. I spent some time looking for wheel pictures yesterday, and I could not find one which looked similar to the one I originally pictured above - entirely possible this is a non-Works Mag, and possibly not even original/authentic Kobe Seiko Mag. As an aside- I've poured over period pictures of my car before, and I have always thought that I could see open wheel nuts in some of them (which i could never understand how that could be, given what I thought I knew at the time), so I went with open nuts for last summer's shows. Pictured are the 2010 replica Mags with steel inserts, and a couple of inexpensive open nuts. Moving forward, there is clearly more investigative work to be done on my part, which is part of the fun.

Here’s an update. I’ve been busy but have had a chance to make more progress on the Z. I took the car on a 100 mile round trip drive and it drove flawlessly. Got it to about 85mph. No shakes, or rattles, engine pulls hard and has good torque. This was the farthest I’ve been from home in it and I’m building a lot of confidence. Latest work completed. 1. Zstory headers came in a while back and I finally got around to ceramic coating them (at a local shop) and installed them. Very tight fit but worked fine. Scratched up the ceramic coating a bit on install unfortunately. 2. Finished mounting rear deck 6x9 speakers 3. Replaced the speedo gear to a 19 tooth to match my set up. 4. New Reverse Switch 5. Wrapped the center counsel armrest and installed that. 6. installed a fire extinguisher in the car. 7. Intalled new door trim (top of door rim) 8. New Skillard license plate light Turn signal stopped working again, hazards work fine. Haven’t looked it over yet. Here are the latest pics.

I’m running 350z seats in my car . I couldn’t do the stock seats for my back . I think they would fit about anyone . I’m almost 6’2 but very thin . Bolstering is more than a stock seat . Adaptation of seat rails is required

My impression is that the 7x14" Kobe Seiko 'Rally Mag' wheels on your Works car are something of an anomaly, in that they use the same 'Sleeve Nut' style fixing as the OEM '432' Kobe Seiko mags. Of course, there was constant evolution within the specifications of the Works cars - even to the stage where there were differences between cars made in the same 'batch', and for the same event - so the concept of what may be 'correct' or 'original' for one Works car may not necessarily be applicable to another. However, I have a pretty good collection of wheels made by Kobe Seiko for Nissan's race and rally teams (maybe 40+ wheels now) and they all - without exception - have a steel insert with a conventional (60 degree?) taper to suit wheel nuts with the same tapered washer. At least six of my Rally Mag wheels came from the batch of cars built for the 1970 RAC Rally here in the UK, so they have some provenance. From what I can see of the wheels, they don't seem to have been modified from parallel bore 'sleeve nut' fixing to tapered seat steel inserts. The inserts look original, and match the later wheels in my collection. Looking at period photos and original Works cars, I see plenty of evidence of tapered seat fixing. Doesn't mean that they were all that way, but it looks like majority share to me. A couple more period photos, perhaps illustrating the destructive nature of top flight rallying (and drivers who insist on getting to the end of a stage despite having a puncture...). Tapered seats in evidence:

Another angle. Works 240Z maintenance. Period photo:

These window frames can be replaced with basic tools and without removing the glass. The door panel will need to be removed, but that's easy. If you insist on outsourcing: https://zintage.net/ https://www.doctordatsun.com/ https://www.vintagemotorworksla.com

Two basic different types of wheel nuts were used between the OEM '432' Kobe Seiko magnesium wheels and the Works 432-R/Works 'Rally Mag' wheel. The (narrow) '432' type used what I believe is called a 'Sleeve Nut', with a long parallel shank and a corresponding parallel hole in the wheel. These centred the wheels on the studs by having a close clearance between the shank on the nut and the hole in the wheel, and clamping force was distributed by a thick washer on the outside face. Personally speaking, I don't like this fixing method. It always seems to raise questions of balance and poor centering. The (wider) Works 'Rally Mag' type used a conventional nut with a (60 degree?) tapered washer that was pressed on - but free to spin to the short shank. The wheels had a steel insert with a matching taper. Clamping force was distributed around the tapered washer and centering was 'automatic' via the stud-centric nature of the tapered washers. These seem pretty much fool-proof to me. I've got a fairly big collection of Works Kobe Seiko wheels (7j x 14" Rally Mags, wide 15" 4-spoke circuit racing mags and 6j x 14" 'Violet' rally mags) and all of them use tapered steel inserts in the wheels to suit tapered nuts. Works rally cars started off in 1970 with open-ended wheel nuts, but switched to chromed dome nuts soon after.

Kats, here's a little more information. For starters: AFAIK, original 7x14 Kobe Seiko wheels are designed to be used with the style of wheel nuts I've shown a few examples of, or the left-most wheel nut in your picture, with the large flat washer. Id imagine that this was designed to help spread the forces over a larger surface area, due to the fragile nature of the magnesium. I can only presume that it was determined that smaller wheel holes would not hold up to the stress of lateral forces by just using standard sized holes with tapered nuts. The 7x14 Kobe Seikos that I have would also use the same wheel nut with flat washer, and could not safely use the tapered nuts, because the holes are too big for the studs, providing minimal contact without the special wheel nuts (picture 1). I believe this wheel would be the correct wheel and (almost correct) wheel nut for the Works cars as well. As to my Works car- I've been using a 2010-era Kobe Seiko Mag replica which employs the tapered nut style, largely thanks to a steel insert in the casting which takes the bulk of the stress, and then distributes it to the magnesium hub (picture 2). It's clearly a safer alternative for actual road use, but I don't know that it's strictly "as-original", though.

I started putting some of it here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67864-ignition-systems-analysls/ But it kinda fell by the wayside?

HI Kats, My only thought (maybe wrongly) that having a flat thick washer means the clamping force is spread over a slightly larger area, giving a greater grip. I presume a non moving washer would "bite" into the wheel, giving a better grip, whilst the spinning washer will keep moving until the torque/pressure from the nut finally holds the washer firm..... That is as far as my logic goes..... As a side note, Kobe Seiko produced a tapered seat on their later Magolly wheels....

Of course, if we go to 15% ethanol all bets are off!!