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Here’s an update. I’ve been busy but have had a chance to make more progress on the Z. I took the car on a 100 mile round trip drive and it drove flawlessly. Got it to about 85mph. No shakes, or rattles, engine pulls hard and has good torque. This was the farthest I’ve been from home in it and I’m building a lot of confidence. Latest work completed. 1. Zstory headers came in a while back and I finally got around to ceramic coating them (at a local shop) and installed them. Very tight fit but worked fine. Scratched up the ceramic coating a bit on install unfortunately. 2. Finished mounting rear deck 6x9 speakers 3. Replaced the speedo gear to a 19 tooth to match my set up. 4. New Reverse Switch 5. Wrapped the center counsel armrest and installed that. 6. installed a fire extinguisher in the car. 7. Intalled new door trim (top of door rim) 8. New Skillard license plate light Turn signal stopped working again, hazards work fine. Haven’t looked it over yet. Here are the latest pics.

It is a voltage regulator. The plug style was used 75-78 and possibly late 260. Early 260 had a one time only round solid black plug, all 240’s had a 6 pin rectangular flat pinned plug. The parts fiche gives you an idea of how many unique ones were made and start and stop dates. All do exactly the same thing. You could switch plugs and use a reg from any year technically. At some point in the late 280’s the alternators went to the internally regulated style (designations starting with LR rather than the earlier LT) and the external regulator nonsense was put to rest. Many replacement regulators you buy today have transistor based relays rather than mechanical ones for enhanced reliability if you are stuck with an LT alternator. Common practice now is to use later GM or later Nissan alternators with higher output anyway. Tons of threads here and else suggest what you might use.

My impression is that the 7x14" Kobe Seiko 'Rally Mag' wheels on your Works car are something of an anomaly, in that they use the same 'Sleeve Nut' style fixing as the OEM '432' Kobe Seiko mags. Of course, there was constant evolution within the specifications of the Works cars - even to the stage where there were differences between cars made in the same 'batch', and for the same event - so the concept of what may be 'correct' or 'original' for one Works car may not necessarily be applicable to another. However, I have a pretty good collection of wheels made by Kobe Seiko for Nissan's race and rally teams (maybe 40+ wheels now) and they all - without exception - have a steel insert with a conventional (60 degree?) taper to suit wheel nuts with the same tapered washer. At least six of my Rally Mag wheels came from the batch of cars built for the 1970 RAC Rally here in the UK, so they have some provenance. From what I can see of the wheels, they don't seem to have been modified from parallel bore 'sleeve nut' fixing to tapered seat steel inserts. The inserts look original, and match the later wheels in my collection. Looking at period photos and original Works cars, I see plenty of evidence of tapered seat fixing. Doesn't mean that they were all that way, but it looks like majority share to me. A couple more period photos, perhaps illustrating the destructive nature of top flight rallying (and drivers who insist on getting to the end of a stage despite having a puncture...). Tapered seats in evidence:

Two basic different types of wheel nuts were used between the OEM '432' Kobe Seiko magnesium wheels and the Works 432-R/Works 'Rally Mag' wheel. The (narrow) '432' type used what I believe is called a 'Sleeve Nut', with a long parallel shank and a corresponding parallel hole in the wheel. These centred the wheels on the studs by having a close clearance between the shank on the nut and the hole in the wheel, and clamping force was distributed by a thick washer on the outside face. Personally speaking, I don't like this fixing method. It always seems to raise questions of balance and poor centering. The (wider) Works 'Rally Mag' type used a conventional nut with a (60 degree?) tapered washer that was pressed on - but free to spin to the short shank. The wheels had a steel insert with a matching taper. Clamping force was distributed around the tapered washer and centering was 'automatic' via the stud-centric nature of the tapered washers. These seem pretty much fool-proof to me. I've got a fairly big collection of Works Kobe Seiko wheels (7j x 14" Rally Mags, wide 15" 4-spoke circuit racing mags and 6j x 14" 'Violet' rally mags) and all of them use tapered steel inserts in the wheels to suit tapered nuts. Works rally cars started off in 1970 with open-ended wheel nuts, but switched to chromed dome nuts soon after.

I just love this site. There is so much knowledge here, and everyone is so helpful. Thanks again to all of you! z3beemer (Paul)

Today i managed to find something nice and rare. Something i have been looking for for a while and recently one popped up for sale: An original Nissan "two-button" Rallye clock including oscillator box in excellent shape: It consists of a the clock itself including the wires And the oscillator box: A while ago i got this aftermarket oscillator box From japan, which i don't need anymore, but since someone might be curious, here's a little comparison: For those who don't know the Rallye clock was Standard in some japanese cars, and also available as a dealer option over there. In other countries (USA for e.g.) the rallye clock was sold in the "competition" catalogues as an option as well:

Hi, In 2020 I replaced my original 240Z seats with Subaru BRZ seats. Here is the link: Selling my Z this spring/summer, so will put the "near perfect" seats back in the car. I'm assuming the new owner would want original over replacement. Good Luck, Nate

I’m running 350z seats in my car . I couldn’t do the stock seats for my back . I think they would fit about anyone . I’m almost 6’2 but very thin . Bolstering is more than a stock seat . Adaptation of seat rails is required

To my eye, just based on the harness, that looks like it could be a ZClocks restoration. I've sent him 4 clocks, and they all came back looking perfect. He typically replaces the entire harness with new wiring (at least it appeared that way). One of the boxes I sent him had a cracked vibrating fork, so he replaced it with a PCB in the original case. A great service - highly recommended. Just as an option, mine appeared to have been mounted using a pair of thru-bolts on the upper-right firewall. I modified the design slightly by running a longer bolt through from the engine bay, and tightening it in place with a locknut. Then I could just slip the oscillator on and off over the remaining protrusion, and tighten using a second nut. JDMjunkies, perhaps this will give you an idea for mounting yours.

Yep, tried that one. That’s why I know it’s sealing.

Looks to be in A1 condition. Nice find! On an LHD car, where will you mount the Oscillator box?

Hi, you must be not too big then because i really hated them when driving one time with a friends car.. they are much to high when your over 6 feet. I was hitting the roof BIG time.. Look around on your Crags list or what's it called.. you find something.. look for a seat that's adjustable. I have a special made seat in my 240z and they can be bought for small money second hand overhere.. Just measure the floor to roof and you know what seat will fit there..

I think that you are correct. A PO from the past might have had more than one Z. They went to the internal regulator in 1978 as you thought. That looks like one of the solid state aftermarket units.

Fast forward 11.5 years later!! This post still remains useful! My red dash break warning light issue turned out to be the relay under the passenger seat. Thanks!