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Thanks for that "shout out" kickstand80....and thanks to you (and the others) for helping me to ID these sensors....It's important to me to post accurate descriptions on CL so that all my interactions with potential buyers are as amicable as ours was. We are, after all, a relatively small community sharing a common passion. Life's too short to not make it fun!

Got lucky with this purchase this morning - a NOS hatch lock! And it comes with two of the old style keys! I bought a lock from Kuwait recently for a Cedric that came with two of these keys. Using a lock tumbler kit, I started rekeying my locks (which is not difficult). And now, this comes along. 🙂 Sometimes this happens: I buy one thing to solve a need (need two old style OEM keys), and then find a better deal that solves another (hatch cylinder even after re-keying was quite worn). So, now, I will have two sets of these old style keys, but a new hatch cylinder without wear (and no need to have the lock cylinder outer sleeve re-chromed). I also was able to find another Datsun tumbler kit. This one has the ignition switch tumblers.

I know your experience causes you to be reticent to do so, but now is the perfect time to check bearing clearances to rule them out as a cause, or determine if there is a problem. You’ll also be able to asses the condition of the bearing shells. Did you mention how many miles on this engine since the rebuild? How many oil changes?

I have tried to. you said check the relief spring. i just did. you said check the threads on the pickup. I am trying to do that. I am also going to empty all oil and start with clean filter like you said. You did comment on "bearing clearance" and such but sadly that is over my head. But you did say you didnt think this was the issue As for starting the car, others said to do so(i think Mark, before you posted to) and see what i could see. the only harm was spilled oil which i cleaned up. I do appreciate your all advice though. I got the pan off. Turns out the i need to manually turn the crankshaft a hair so the front part of pan would clear some bolt coming from the front cylinder area Here are images i took. Everything looks clean but bolts on pickup dont have thread lock. they came out really easy. The thread locker would i assume blue? The pickup has zero obstruction btw. I am sure hard to tell by images.

Seems like a lot of effort being expended here that will most likely lead to failure to pass. As I understand California they have the visual inspection, the idle emissions measurement, and the 2500 RPM cruise emissions measurements. Three chances to fail. I used to spend a couple of hours messing around back and forth at the emissions station in Oregon (free checks as you long as you're making improvement), dialing in the AFM, the timing, sometimes the fuel pressure, so that I could pass just idle emissions. On a 76 with no catalytic converter, mostly original engine parts. The MSA AFM that I had bought in the past just ran rich at idle so I would have to change back to an older original AFM that I had picked up. Then after a couple of years of dinking around with the engine just to see what it would do the idle emissions would be out of spec again.

Someone is selling these? Who? I agree. If the ball can be depressed with a finger, and is clearly free to open when needed, there isn’t any reason to mess with it.

I think that you're headed in the wrong direction Wally. I only mentioned the oil filter relief valve as an example of a relief valve. The pressure is still caused by the resistance to flow of the main bearings and head oil supply orifice. The pump produces pressure which forces the oil through the passage that the gauge port is on. If there's nothing holding the flow back then pressure will be low. I'd put the old oil pump back on before doing anything else. If pressure is still low then the problem is farther down the line. Or on the supply side, with air leaks or obstructions at the oil pickup.

I would think the higher compression would drive higher temperatures would drive higher NOx, and my friend, Google, was able to find links to say that is the case. Also, according to my friend, Google, in typical operation the EGR lowers the oxygen concentration and absorbs heat to reduce NOx formation.

two cents, ebay and other market places maybe losing inventory / listings of good/rare parts with all auto brands. 1099K required on a single/accumulative sales $600.00 (to release the funds). That's capitalism for you in the US, the Fed's involved in your depreciated/appreciated 50 year old parts. Wonder when they'll get around to tracking your overall purchases/dollars spent on the these platform? Moved away from these market places to local clubs and communities, cash and carry. Making discovery of good parts more difficult.

Regarding the block, I have found that in some cases, you just have to request Jauce to look into it, and it will become unblocked. In other words, just because it says it may not be shipped internationally, doesn't mean that is actually the case. I was able to buy a couple of items recently that were both blocked for the same reason, initially. Price is what it is. Maybe another one will come along, or somebody here may have a used one to sell for less.

Below is a photograph taken from the 1970 240Z sale brochure. A plastic cover can been seen over the voltage regulator. I assume the car (perhaps a late single-digit VIN) was released for the North American promotion circuit and pictures taken to create promotion/marketing slicks. I would guess all production cars had the cover installed. The car missing the cover was probably an engineering mule destined to be taken apart for the service manual and never left the factory complex. https://xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/1970-Datsun-240Z.pdf

And I must apologize. Your car is different, duh, from what I'm used to seeing. Caught me off guard. Anyway 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other. It will be fun learning the differences in our cars. Old dog here but I enjoy new info.

Just wanted to say thankyou to ea6driver for the parts. Very easy to work with and all parts worked. I purchased the Thermo-time switches and all were functional.

It should be about 10psi per 1000rpm. So idle might look very low. The needle should move with revs but more of a rise and hold. If it is doing this, quit looking at the gauge. It sounds like you don’t have a problem.

I don't think smog will be able to tell what the compression ratio is. Whether you can get the EFI to run properly with it, is another story. You could always add a rheostat on the temp side of the EFI to dial it down some but that still might not work. If I were going to build a motor and wanted more power, I would probably ditch the factory EFI. It's not very tunable. Build what you have to and get it running and then mod it after you move and know what the new rules will be at your new address. High compression motor with SU's, or SU throttle bodies, ITB's or go turbo. with as much displacement as you can afford

Also, change the oil filter when you change the oil.

Thank you for this post. Swapped the screen for fiberglass cloth and treated it more like a layup, but I used this epoxy to bond everything. I'm happy with the results I'm getting.

Found a new method for fixing vacuum leak at throttle shafts. Just finished soda blasting and cleaning carbs when I found this.