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You might have the rod to the master cylinder adjusted too long. Could also be the rod at the pedal to the booster. This can close the fluid return hole to the MC reservoir. The fluid expands and can't escape. The fluid leaking out of the switch is probably coincidence or a result of the constant pressure on a small leak. Anyway, there should be a small amount of play at the rod from the brake pedal. Easy to check first.

Today, I reassembled my intake manifold and made vroom vroom noises.

So I noticed a post on Zcar.com asking about finding a shop in the Atlanta area. The owner bought a non-running 280Z, and the previous owner said the car ran fine and suddenly died one day. The PO fired the parts cannon and replaced the fuel pump to no avail. Isn't it funny how the parts cannon doesn't hit the target very often? Fortunately for this 280Z, the new owner is willing to listen to diagnostics and test. First was to see if the car would fire. Yes, it ran on starting fluid. Next establish that the fuel pump runs. Yes, it has fuel pressure, but it's a little low. Constricting the return will build the pressure though. After that check the injectors. Negative on the noid light. At this point I wanted him to check for voltage at the injectors, but he started moving through the fuel injection Bible. Okay, he found some issues, but not the one that was keeping the car from starting. I pushed him again to check the EFI fusible link, and he texted me about finding a loose wire near the battery positive. He reconnected the fusible link and a couple of minutes later he sent me a text of a running L28. This year is off to a good start for me. I hope there is a lot of that to go around this year.

Maybe it is because the European license plates are 3 feet wide? (OK, I jest, they aren’t 3 feet wide, but are a good bit wider than the US plates.)

I drove my first Z in 1991 (280zx) and 6 weeks later bought a 240z.. that one was a mess.. so after some time i took it apart and stored all the parts on the attic. I still have some of them. Since the later 90's i'm a visitor of the local marketplace with DATSUN as the search word.. I saw how a 75 euro gearbox went to 1500 euro (incl. warranty.) for a 280zx 5 speed.. in 10 years time or so.. These days i sold some pretty nice new special parts like orig. fender mirrors in the orig.box.. I had a topic made of the special and/or rare parts i and others have.. i could bring it to life again i think..

Something might be coming loose. Better check the things you touched when you installed the coilovers.

Just a follow up on my original post on the Z radio options. I went with the www.tech-retro.com mentioned in my earlier post. I had Ralph the Radio Guy in Bartlett, IL (773 814 5094) do the conversion on mine. So far, I'm very happy with it. The radio looks and work just like the original one. When I got it back, I set it up on the bench and checked out all the features. Everything works as described in thier video. I now have am/fm stereo ,4 channel 45W (ea) speaker connection, usb input, mp3 input, bluetooth, hands free phone with internal or external mic. It now also has a fader and a balance control. My original radio was an am/fm monaural radio with one rear speaker. The car isn't on the road yet, but the radio is installed and tested. All ok

I have never seen those license plate lamps, very cool! These were removed at the dealer when the customer wanted mags on his new z. The customer gave them to me in the early 80's when he was cleaning out his attic.

Hahaha, no but they are bigger.. they are 445 mm wide (17,5 inch) classic plates! And those are black with white letters, the normal NL. yellow plates are even a bit wider!

Rod said it was "more luck than skill" to clean off the dirt and overspray using regular cleaning solution and 0000 steel wool with very light pressure.

That sounds like something with the brakes to me. The coil overs aren't the problem. You should pull the wheels and see what's rubbing. Put a jack under the wheels/tires and put "weight" on them. Not free hanging. Look for shiny spots where the tires might be rubbing.

I don't maintain much of a stock of Nissan parts, but there are many parts I keep in stock, either for my cars or to help other people with their cars. I did buy a bunch of combo switches about 10 years ago that I have used for parts and to help others keep their Zs lit up. Then again, I'm not striving to do a restoration like yours. I am more of a person who enjoys keeping them running.

Here's the video on changing the master and slave cylinders. I hope it helps someone in the future.

Hi Alan, Mr.Matsuo too. When I asked Matsuo-san “wood or plastic” 20 years ago, he explained how our wood steering wheel was made. Matsuo-san said “ real wood is pressed with liquid like plastic in a very strong force. Wood but same time plastic. That is what IZUMI doing”. Matsuo-san’s statement is for how, not for what we should call it. Matsuo-san was surprised and delighted, then said “ what a enthusiastic discussion (in the classiczcar.com), you guys are OTAKU, interesting!” When Matsuo-san talked about steering wheel, he always say” ウッド　ハンドル” (wood steering wheel). This may sounds incorrect for someone, but do we really need to say in a different way and advise Matsuo-san not to call it wood? Probably he would say “I didn’t even think about there is a point of view that it should not be called or regarded wood steering wheel. You guys are great! But I still call it wood steering wheel”… I feel very comfortable that Nissan and Izumi called it “wood”. I have never felt I am cheated. Alan’s anatomy, that is fascinating and the pictures speak themselves. This picture was taken 8th May 2003 in Mr.Matsuo’s studio. Matsuo-san told me and showed me a lot of interesting stuff to me. A Memorial Day for me. Kats

I also worked on the E brake some. I am running Maxima rear calipers and getting a functioning E brake can be a challenge. I cut some thin self adhesive foam to back the ebrake mechanism with to help seal that up Then I worked on the cable to caliper connection. I tried it with the factory brackets I just used a bolt to connect the cable to the caliper but there is not enough travel and the spring on the end of the Ebrake cable coil binds before the brake really locks down. Also there is no good way to lock the E brake cable into the thick bracket So I came up with a plan. Straighten the brackets Then I will drill and tap them to accept the original E brake brackets like this So Cody came over and straightened them for me. I need to weld them up a little bit. Dress them down and then figure out where I need to mount them. I may have to make another cable too. I may need a little more length than the factory cable has. If I make a new cable, I will weld some clevis pins on the ends to make the transition to the caliper easier. We'll see...