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I used a silver Sharpie on my radio face plate and it turned out great.

Sometimes you find something so cool you just have to share it. Only electrical geeks will truly appreciate the engineering behind this amazing device. Behold the StewMac “FREE WAY ULTRA SWITCH” Read deeply into the specifications for this thing. It’s mind blowing. Today you’d do that level of switching sophistication with software and transistors. Though not if you’re a musician apparently. There just has to be a way to use in a Datsun. Use your imaginations. Enjoy! https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/switches/free-way-ultra-switch/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&fbclid=IwAR0YLOqtfkuf7P3pU5U1-8y-GUQq0DAT3ijot58HA4WGxjiRK0EHCliiVAI_aem_ASTU1W3q0D2S5H0v8nqQHse-oXHOV9923BOfddgOcjqRR397O4C8gYfb9AgOl4wdqVDthbtRnwpiwta59eYrGLhanTqJkwoXQRjQht4sGniybm0TOJp6Lu2KmXapqbfOnMA&fs=e&s=cl

Due to a NASA (supposed to be) weekend on stock brakes (which lasted about 2 track sessions with the instructor) I started out with the 4-piston non-vented mounted on stock disc. (just the caliper change and I can't remember the friction material - probably semi-metallic back then) The "butt dyno" couldn't really tell the difference between this and stock. Disappointed, I installed the Z31 vented rotors with the 4-Runner wide calipers (stock master and booster) - friction was either semi-metallic or ceramic, can't remember. I noticed a good improvement in braking and a large improvement in fade and heat dissipation. A short time later, I installed Porterfield friction material on all four wheels (stock drums in back). These pads grip about the same as an OEM with normal street traffic, when they warm up they get VERY grippy and do not fade. Goldie likes to hill climb (L28ET builds a lot of torque) and coming back down the hill is much less dicey with this particular friction. At the bottom I still have full confidence as these grab better at the bottom than they did at the top and I've yet to experience fade. I've been on this setup for 7-8 years and I daily drive my 260Z. I still use the stock master. My youngest son did the same brake swap on his 1975 280Z but replaced the master with a 15/16 280ZX master cylinder. I'm sure there's some difference, but I've never really been able to tell when I drive his car.

I did the Silvermine Toyota upgrade like you are talking about. I didn't change anything but the calipers and rotors (mine were original and no longer able to be ground down). I got the drilled rotors. The only noticeable change was the pedal had a bit more slack before the brakes activated...like maybe 1/2". Did I notice a great difference in braking efficiency? No. A new set of OEM calipers and new discs would probably be similar, but hard to come by. Cheers, Mike

Thank you for the suggestions. Attached are four additional (better) photos. SteveJ: It appears the Pertronix unit only fits into the Mallory dual point distributor one way. The rotor position and the oil shaft appear to align. Used a Testors Enamel paint pen to highlight the timing marks better. Reptoid Overlords: Cleaned up the cam pull notch and the alignment appears to be good. My engine internals need some cleaning.

All of the S30 series cars used the strut tube - front and rear, as the reservoir for the hydraulic fluid. The shock or insert as you term it was an open design with no protective casing or shell. The FSM covers it very thoroughly. Today's shocks are fully encased/sealed units. +1 on your comment of adding a small amount of oil to the tube to prevent rustwelding of the new shock to the bottom of the strut tube. KONI recommends it, apparantly KYB does not.

I did the 4-Runner conversion on my track car, with the vented discs and bigger caliper and did not upgrade the booster or master. They worked great and I never had a problem.

Makin’ ‘‘em spin!

The oil pump looks like it's about a tooth off. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in. This is how it should look: (Courtesy of a post by @siteunseenfrom 3 years ago) Also, the pickup location on the distributor does not look right. Every Pertronix install I have seen has the pickup closer to the radiator like in the photo below. Also, see the photos in this thread: You might also want to put some bright (or fluorescent) nail polish on the timing mark while you have it at TDC. That will make it easier to see with the timing light in the future.

The site has a For Sale sub-forum. Always good to just put your price out there. The scammers just want to make contact then persuade people. Put it out in public and you'll get a better response. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/11-for-sale/

Not spam, here's my headrests along with my Vintage Kameari GT Seats. (Also for sale locally in Northern California, but not willing to ship seats) https://www.instagram.com/p/B54ovMxHvU8/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

I applaud the seller for full disclosure - but it also may have cost him a sale. First - the body he started with was way to far gone for that shop to handle. Lots and lots of rust damage everywhere, but few pictures showing how it was “all” addressed. My fear would have been a lot of bondo filling small holes everywhere. Second the killer was the quality of the metal work done on the floor pan replacement. Pictures 812, 813, 815… That shop really did not know what they were doing, I wouldn’t touch that car...

With all the great work done on the restoration, there were several small misses. The interior work on the seats, door panels, shock towers, etc was not very good. Under hood braided lines should have been sourced. Details held it back, should have gotten close to 60k.

Reserve not met at $45K. Holy smokes.