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These ended up at my place. 12/71 and ?/73 As well as this 5/72 out of Tacoma.

I have always liked the Honda 400 four. Super fun bike to ride. RD's were really fun too. I have a 74 550 four cafe'd out

Thanks, as you well know, in Washington there are a lot of rusty cars. The other half has been garaged all this time and are in great shape. An interesting mix of extremes. This lot and five more out of the shot. Plus another 4-5 that are already striped and scraped. I seem to gravitate to the rusty, less expensive ones. Other than my personal car.

Glad to help. I don't think you'll crack any plastics taking that panel out. The more risky maneuver is putting it back in. Don't torque the mounting screws too tight. I've seen a couple of those panels with cracks radiating out from the mounting screw holes due to being tightened too much.

An impressive parts car lineup.

Closest area would be Interbay / Magnolia. It did have a Ballard look to it. They were in a car storage lot. I was able to negotiate a good deal on them and factored in the fuel. He told me someone had come and looked at them, I thought that might have been you. I seem to have forgotten to add my pics of them nestled in..... ^^^

Have you tried the piston drop test? Lift both pistons all the way up with your fingers (there'll be considerable resistance) Then let them drop at the same time. They should drop at close to the same rate and land with an audible click when they hit bottom. If one is sticky, loosen the dome screws and try again.

SU's use a piston to control air flow. Might be that your pistons are stuck, among other possibilities. Not sure how to fix that.

So we have three streams of debate about Ethanol. 1. Is it better for the environment? 2. Is it better or worse for your car? 3. It’s deeply rooted in politics We’ve touched on 2 and 3 and I think the conclusion on 2 is that it is probably not great for a classic car but fine for modern vehicles. It might be better to seek non-ethanol gas for your Z, but it’s not going to kill your Z either. On 3…people with differing political views on oil, energy and ethanol will not change sides. We humans are too deeply rooted in our belief systems and are unwilling to give quarter to the the other side even in the face of facts to change points of view so this debate it’s sort of pointless. On point 1. We can just follow the science. The science states corn based ethanol is probably not better and may in fact be worse for the environment. This guy breaks it down using science and data from prominent professors and institutions like Harvard. Super smart guy that I follow on YouTube. His channel is Engineering Explained and he reminds me of what Captain Obvious was probably like about 15 years or more ago.

Awesome! Years of parts and restoration candidates.

Baby steps, Concentrated on the turn signal last night and was able to clean up the wiring and rid my car of the alligator clip? Blinkers working great! Still no brake lights, tested the switch and its working well, I have power to the switch so I'm sure its more creative wiring. I'm sure I'll get it working tonight. Previous owners always amaze me... Thanks,

So after driving a couple hundred miles with success I discovered my brakes aren’t up to snuff. I have stock rear drums and Wilwood calipers and rotors on the front and a stock 7/8” master cylinder. There was a lot of brake pedal force required to stop the car and I couldn’t lock up the brakes when I tried. The booster was under suspicion. I pulled the line off the intake that goes the brake booster and put a vac pump on it. Nothing….couldn’t get the needle to move on the pump. I double checked for hose leaks and couldn’t find one. To confirm my findings, I plugged up the nipple on intake line that the brake booster hose normally goes on and drove the car. Brakes were exactly the same with the booster not attached. I also had to adjust my engine idle screw after warm up to get the idle right which make me think the intake was seeing a vacuum leak with the booster connected. So I pulled the booster and sent it off to Power Brake Exchange. Should be back next week. $120 plus $40 to powder coat it. I considered just buying a new one but these guys warranty the booster for life and the crap you get at the local auto stores like duralast (duratrash) and cardone don’t inspire me. Car is off the road for a week. I knew I’d be working out kinks these coming week and slowly expanding the car’s operating sand box. Also seeing a intermittently low oil pressure readings. After teases him I realize I have a Oil Pressure Sending unit from the wrong year. Mine should have a single bullet connector and the sensor on my block has 2 spade connectors in a “T” shape. I had to modify my wire to attach it when I put it on. I’m wondering if this is my problem, I just ordered the proper one and will see how that works. If it shows similar readings, I’ll have to dig further. Side bar question. Does anyone know where you can get the replacement rubber boots that go on the brake cable right where the cable connects to the rear wheels (one per side). Mine are dust. Thanks

Here's a thread with some stuff that might help. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57671-electric-servos-instead-of-vacuum-driven-hvac/ The pics are dead, but if there's something you want, let me know.

This is likely what will fix your brake lights on constantly. Zcar Depot

Engine removal completed! Kats IMG_6019.MOV IMG_6021.MOV

My friend swapped my clutch and fixed some bugs. But putting my center console back in, he pinched a wire on the o2 sensor. Shorted and burnt my dual o2 can sensor up.