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I would avoid under coating just to prevent rusting, I know we dont have salt here but still eventually it will crack and let water get in, maybe trapped.

One of the best restorations I've ever seen.

98K and he didnt let it go? Something aint right there.

What engine? How many miles? What do you know about it? Can you post a picture of the copper flakes? Might just be from the washer on the drain plug.

☺️Oh yes, you are right... thats my blame ... it is the one from my original booster and not correctly fitted. That's the problem with old part

Here are a few pics of the tank upon arrival. I’ll post internal pics once I get back to my shop.

Sorry Jeff there were two posts. Check out the other one. Submitted before adding the pics on the first one.🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Alternatively---if the outside glass surface is in good condition (no scratches) the original glass can be re-silvered on the backside and will be good as new. I've done this several times on interior rear view mirrors. contact: http://mirrorresilvering.ca/?page_id=113

Is this yours Cliff/site @siteunseen ? I see orange. Condolences if it is. It's been Californicated. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-210/ "This 1971 Datsun 240Z was acquired by the seller four years ago while in Alabama, and was subsequently repainted in metallic green."

Once you corroborate that all the electrical sources of failure check out, you can also pull the sender from the tank, bend the floater arm downward about an inch (toward the bottom of the fuel tank) and reinsert in the tank. That should allow your fuel gauge needle to move to the right with the same amount of fuel in the tank. It will take some experimentation but you should be able eventually to get the gauge needle to go fully to the right with a full tank of gas. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Trust me. Corrosion can happen even with a "California" car. The horns on my 240Z wouldn't work until I took a dremel and wire brush to the horns and the wiring. That's a little more extreme because the horns are out front and get spray, but I have found corrosion at many connectors.

I'm self quarrentining until my test results come back for the newest Omicron. Haven't been feeling very well and don't want to infect anyone so I sit here at home with my dog and my beer, laptop and nothing more but time. That's why I'm a little chatty today. Thanks for giving me something to do! Hopefully I can help somehow?

I'm not sure but i think you can get the radiator out on the right side were also the heatervalve is located. I bought one and i discovered a very small leak at a hose clamp.. so it payed right back for it! the set was about 69€ so with the lower prices in USA they are about 40 bucks haha

I would see if you can rent a pressure tester. Pump the radiator up to about 15#s and use a flashlight to try to find the leak. It could be as easy as a loose hose clamp...

Or water valve?

Got a day to work on the Z today. Trying to get the interior squared away…..long time coming. I’ve been putting in sound proofing. Also cut and fit the vinyl for wall behind seats. I like it! It’s not sitting flat yet because it isn’t glued yet. Side note, I went to my local grocery store yesterday and a S30 turned in right before me. I was like….what!!!! I followed the guy and we ending up having a 30 min conversation in the parking lot. He has a 77 280z and is the original owner. He’s also a pilot and been retire for some time. I then find out he lives in my same small town less that 3 miles away. He said he got a treasure trove of parts. 3 engines, transmissions…on and on. Here is a pic of his car I took yesterday. His name was Bernie Culp(said he’s been a a ZCON a few years back). ….nice guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go with the Aisin WPN013, cast impeller, its a very good pump. Its available from Rock Auto or Amazon. About $25

Finally received the seat cover kit from Z Car Source, turned out much better. 👍

Resting boobs are pillows. Resting boob computers are door holders.