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I have been unfaithful for the last week and this has happened…

Careful, if you continue down that path this could happen to you... Thankfully I outgrew that phase and can now focus on my Zed. It was quite neglected during those years. Lol

What if I never sign out??

GRAND MASTER Z status presents so many opportunities beyond just T-shirts, a secret handshake, and a "slogan shingle". For instance, the upcoming GRAND MASTER Z New Year's Eve Party - reservations are limited and filling fast. Hope to see all the GMZ 1%ers there! 😎

Very fun!

Hopefully you'll never finish your car, you will probably live longer. My Dad always had a project that needed finishing (like me ) that he claimed gave him a reason to get out of the bed with my step monster. We need stuff to do!

@Mike, so here's a possibly related question... So in the old days (like maybe two weeks ago before this last software update), you used to have the ability to enter a creative little quip "slogan thingie" that would appear between your user name and your avatar pic. Mine used to read "I'm a member of this forum" as I figured that was completely appropriate note for Captain Obvious. Well... I went to change my slogan to "GRAND MASTER Z" and that line does not appear anymore. So two questions... 1) What the heck?, and 2) What the heck?

Haha! Last thing you thought was going to come out of this thread... Work for you!

I don't think that I've ever seen all four switches on a ZX transmission. I think that two is more common. But it's easy to tell close and far apart by the exhaust hangers on the back and the reverse lockout plate on the side, among other clues. On the diff, it's easier to determine ratio than it sometimes seems. If you can get the back end of the car up, one easy way is to lay on your back under the diff, reach out and turn both tires one revolution at the same time. Count the number of times the pinion flange turns. You don't have to worry about the decimals. 3.54 = ~3 1/2, 3.9 = ~4, 3.7 = ~ 3 3/4. Mark the tires and the flange and just make sure that both tires end up at the same spot. If they get off a bit in the middle it doesn't matter. You can also check ratios on your transmission by marking the input and output shafts and counting/estimating. 3.321 is quite a bit different than 3.062. If you use a piece of tape on the output you don't have to be right over top of it to see when it's made a full turn.

With all due respect Patcon, and I mean that, this truck is indeed worth that and possibly more. It is extremely cherry in all respects. Just look at a few of the details. 1 - Original hose clamps 2 - All hold down hooks accounted for 3 - Washer bottle and overflow bottle largely mint 4 - No radio!! 5 - Seats all but perfect 6 - Bed is very clean Yes, at BAT this truck would fetch big money if viewed by the right crowd. Yes, I'd be very happy owning such a machine

Forget about the old saying. Just picture it with GRAND MASTER Z under your name!!! It would be glorious. And obnoxious!

Mine said "My Z will be finished...someday" I'm not sure if I even want that back as I probably won't live long enough to actually finish it.

What does your TEMP gauge show. My needle stays on the right "leg" of the M and my other 240 was the same exact way. If I'm not mistaken Nissan has a 165F thermostat and a 180F. Are you using a thermostat, is it a Nissan because the cheap ones are no good. Do think the motor is actually hot or are you thinking it's the fuel in the carbs percolating? The "pop pop pop" means it's not tuned properly. It could in the timing or ignition or the carbs, any number of things. The last I remember you had found an L motor experienced mechanic. What happened with that? I think an infared temp gun would be money well spent. They're pretty cheap now. Point the red dot and see where it's hot. https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Thermometers/b?ie=UTF8&node=9931459011 Good luck with your problem. PS Back the timing up and remove the air filter, then see what it does. PSS Read this thread if you have time.

I signed in the day I joined and haven't signed out since. Can't figure out a reason to? You can right click and open a new tab in "incognito" if you feeling sneaky.

I took the 260Z out to a small car meet called Worship. The people in attendance were hard-core car people, and my car garnered many complements and plenty of interest in the throttle body fuel injection. There was also a modified 70 240Z there, owned by a friend who used to frequent this site. It always feels so great to take the car out for a drive. Here's a link to the rest of the photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k76JqGTjErk1JcFTA

Wishing my 1976 - 11/75 a happy 45th birthday, don't know what actual day it was born. I ordered it in December of 75 and picked it up in early March of 1976. Putting it away for the winter, it didn't get much drive time this year, all the car shows were canceled. Hopefully they will be back next year.

A couple of years ago, I bought a '71 off craigslist. I already owned a couple of '71 cars so I thought I knew what I was going to see. Long story short, when I arrived and started looking the car over, I popped the hood and saw the 2400 valve cover. Then I looked at the vin on the door jam. Its vin was hls30-05305 with a manufacture date of 6/70. I am curious why such an early car is a '71 and not a '70? A friend of mine said back then, the cars were titled based the year they left the dealership. Not when they were manufactured. Also, since the price went up each year, there was a compelling financial reason to title the car later in the year. Does anyone agree or disagree? Thanks

In 1970 I installed a set of CIBIE Biodes in my 70 Z. Wish I could buy a new set today... They were among the first 7" round halogen replacements for the OEM headlights. They had two halogen H1 bulbs - one for the low beam that utilized the standard large reflector.. and one for the high beam that was inside it's own smaller reflector.. a projector beam more or less. When the high beams were on, both H1's were on. Very directional lens and the high beams were amazing! You could see highway signs light up as the light from the projector beams hit them more than a half mile away at night. When installed in the Z - you had to insulate the metal mounting taps on the back of the lights - otherwise they would short out to the body - and that would burn your engine wiring harness out!! The sealed beams that are OEM have glass mounting tab's on the back of the glass lens.... and as we know the ground for the headlighs runs through the wiring harness. Picture courtesy of TRE Motorsports FWIW, Carl B.

Perhaps a little off topic, but as an option, fog lamps for the S30 could be purchased from Datsun. The conversation is buried in the archives along with conversations about the switches, wiring. Personally, I think the best way to break a fog lamp is mount it to the underside of the bumper. I prefer the sealed bulb directional lens Cibie to any other replacement headlight. Great light. Well worth the $$$.

Back then the original bumpers had fog/driving light mounting holes on the under side some 3-4 inches inside each overrider. That was the usual mounting point. Lights there looked good, but functionality was compromised. Driving lights work best mounted high to minimize shadows where there are dips in the road. Pro rally cars have their driving lights above the bumper or on the roof. But... the pros use ther driving lights to supplement 1 or 2 pairs of Euro style hi/low beam headlights like those on p. 61 of the Black Dragon catalog. The high beams are broad enough to light the shoulders and sweeping bends is enough out to about 1/2 mile, and the low beams are also much brighter, more uniform, and better controlled than sealed beams. Driving lights extend the visibility range to 1 mile plus, but only straight ahead and for 3-4 degrees on either side (the greater the range, the narrower the beam). Fog lights need to be as far as possible from the drivers eyeball level to minimize the amount of light reflected back into the driver's eyes. Under the bumper is better than headlight level, down at the chin spoiler is better still. In really thick fog they also have to be used instead of the headlights (which are too near eye level in a Z). That's illegal in the US, but in a pea soup fog it's the only way that works -- the laws of physics trump the laws of Congress. If you don't already have them either Cibie or Hella replacement headlights will give the most useable improvement over sealed beams. Both companies also make good driving and fog lights. I can't say if either is better today. (Cibie was a bit better in the 70's, and my 72 Z is still running 75 vintage Cibie Z-beams.) Either way use clear (white) bulbs. Your eyes see yellow and green best, and "bonehead blue" bulbs absorb some of the yellow. A heavy duty wiring harness is a good idea with the standard 55/60w bulb -- headlight fuses blow occasionally without it and the voltage drop through stock wiring steals more light than you might think. Heavy duty wiring is essential if the original wiring has deteriorated or if you want to upgrade to 80/100w (illegal on the street) H4 bulbs.

I see a few of you noticed that I recently sold my Z of 43 years on BaT. I accomplished what I set out to do and felt it was time for a new adventure. I'm not sure what that will be yet, but I'm looking around. Anyway, I have a number of original parts left that may be helpful to someone. I'm going to try to run a continuous ad that will be revised as I dig out parts. My intent is to support the community with needed parts, not make a lot of money from the sales. Take a look from time to time. Best of luck with your projects. Dave