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DaveN

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About DaveN

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  • Map Location
    Hickory, NC
  • Occupation
    retired chemical engineer

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    #1 - a silver '71 ~3 years, then
    #2 - an early 72, owned ~10 years.
    #3 - s/n 00013, bought at a junkyard in the mid'70's , repaired, sold to a parts man in the Bob Sharp organization ca. '77.
    #4 - a late '72; bought in '87, always garaged, still in good (unrestored) condition.
  1. Mark, Do you have flat top (original 260) Hitachi's or a round top conversion from an earlier model year? The flat tops have true chokes, the round tops use a movable main jet instead of air flow restriction to get a richer mixture for cold starting. Flat tops can be made easier to start when cold by fudging the choke butterfly adjustment a little toward fully closed. Conversely, cold starts will be slow (or impossible) if the choke butterflys aren't closing quite far enough. It's a sensitive adjustment, hard to make reproducibly because you do it by bending a wire piece in the linkage. Fl
  2. Jon, Under most conditions well made and correctly aimed H-4 headlights send less light toward an oncoming driver's eyes than sealed beams (and most late model high tech headlights). They're brighter than sealed beams when something -- heavy load, cresting a hill, etc. -- raises the low beam cutoff above an oncoming driver's eye level, but even then the street spec 55/60w bulbs aren't as bad as most late model (and legal) HID headlights. The reflector and lens design controls the light distribution, so unless someone can share experience with the the exact make and model you have you'll just
  3. All the early OEM fans had clutches. In the early '70's you could get aftermarket replacement fans with no clutch, and some owners switched after clutch failures because they cost about $100 less.
  4. www.carfiche.com has the Z parts microfiche online. Free access for all.
  5. Listen to your mechanic. When the head warps the cam bearings are usually pulled out of alignment. Running with it that way will fatigue and break the camshaft. Trying to slide the cam in and spin it is an alignment test. If it passes you're OK, just shave the gasket surface and go. If it fails the test go get the other head. The warped head needs to have new cam bearing blocks fabricated and align bored after they're bolted on.
  6. The factory wrap wasn't asbestos, it was fiberglass with a reflective foil skin. But... I don't remember it having a woven layer under the foil like the stuff in your photo. In most places 70-72 Z's didn't have a percolation (similar to vapor lock) problem when new, but central AZ may have been hot enough to be an exception. They have had problems in hot climates since the 80's -- search old posts, many complaints -- because gas vapor pressures have been raised. With no insulation chances are you'll have the problem next spring.
  7. Fram PH8A and DG8A are correct. You can cross reference other brands to those.
  8. Posts a few months ago advised using diesel rated oil or an additive supplement like STP in all L series engines because valve train wear problems have started showing up since ZDDP (an anti-wear additive) levels in oil for gasoline engines were cut by half about a year ago. Just a thought.
  9. Do a Google search for "E85 conversion". You'll find lots of ads for conversion kits and several articles warning that they're all illegal because none has been certified to meet emission standards. DIY conversion is also illegal unless you can prove (testing costs $$) that emissions are no higher than the pre-conversion standard for the same model. Dig deeper into E85 and you may not want to touch it. The net energy gain is low (recent published estimates are in the 20-60% range for ethanol, around 100% for biodiesel with potential for improvement as higher yielding oil crops are found/dev
  10. Arne is right, A/R sold Libres unpainted. So, there is no "correct" color. In their heyday Libres with painted spokes were a popular choice of the (relatively few) owners who wanted that look from aluminum wheels. The most popular colors where I lived then (central NC) were shades of gold/copper/bronze and to match the car's body color.
  11. Re cam -- Good advice here: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html High lift, short duration for 1500-5000 RPM. Be careful to get the metallurgy right. Re heads -- E88 to keep the compression ratio up.
  12. Assuming you have a strong spark, the symptoms sound like you're not getting "full choke". It's easy to check with an inspection mirror. At full choke you should have about 8mm of nozzle barrel exposed below the adjusting nut (linkage on the side of each carb stroked to or nearly to it's built in stop.) Cables slip out of adjustment easily where they attach to the carb, that's and binding inside the cable are common causes of under choking. Because they don't have accelleration pumps (and are side drafts) early SU's need several seconds of cranking when cold to get enough gas into the manif
  13. This site is a good source of SU info. It's run by British car buffs, but they admit the best maintenance articles available were written for Hitachi SU's. http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/index.html Nozzles come out easily. Just take out the one screw at the bottom that attaches the linkage and disconnect the gas feed tube. If they weren't sticking they would fall out in your hand. Sticking can come from a varnish accumulation if the carbs haven't been cleaned in a while, from the "anti-stick" coating on replacement nozzles, or from badly bent needles. If they need cleaning you only need
  14. Good performance tips can be found here, especially re cam swaps. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html In a daily driver go for as much lift as valve-piston clearance allows and only a little more duration than stock (to preserve midrange torque). A strong midrange is the key to lively street performance because it's used a lot more than the extreme top end. Re SU's and air filters -- The stock air filter housing is very good, actually better that most aftermarket replacements. The stock element is good, too, (until it gets clogged by dirt), but an oil wetted foam replacement ele
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