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It would probably work a lot better with white/red wire mounted to the B terminal. With where the wire is currently mounted, you have a dead short when you plug in your fusible link. At least you know what that looks like now. Don't worry. If you haven't made a bonehead mistake sometime in your life, you're not really working on your car.

ZNationals track day is at Road Atlanta today, so I took the day off to enjoy the day.

There's a forest of burning smoking wires out there. Scary.

On final approach now!! Whatever you do... Don't connect the battery until you're sure you've got everything else correct! including the fuel injection power leads. They're both red, so that's an easy way to get screwed up. Ohm them out to the ECU connector if there's any doubt.

This is the correct oil pressure sender for your car John .... The later sender, Nissan changed the fuel pump safety cutoff from the afm contacts to detect loss of oil pressure and disable the pump.

The forked lug on the condensor should be connected at the B terminal with the white/red wire.

Either the battery or alternator is wired backwards.

Perfect. That means we're doing it right. So to your final question about vacuum bleeding vs. pressure bleeding... Again, I'm no expert on the topic, but I would suggest pressure bleeding over vacuum bleeding for a couple reasons. First, I believe you can generate a whooooole lot higher pressure differential with the master cylinder. I didn't research it, but I would expect that when you push the pedal hard, you can generate hundred(s?) of PSI in the lines. But if you're drawing a vacuum, the max vacuum you can achieve is less than one atmosphere (less than 15 psi). So for pressure bleeding, your pushing fluid through the lines with hundred(s) or PSI, but with vacuum bleeding, your pulling fluid through the lines with less than 15. Seems you would be much more likely to generate that bubble-free "slug" of fast moving fluid if you're using a higher pressure differential. Second, the seals used in the system are designed to keep pressure IN, not keep pressure OUT. All the seals are angled in such a way as to designate which side is the high pressure side and which is the low pressure side. The seals are all designed to expand outward and provide more sealing force when the pressure behind them increases. I've run the exact same scenario that Zed Head did (bleeding a clutch slave cylinder) and when I released the slave plunger, it pulled air past the seal back into the fluid side. So either he got lucky, or I got unlucky, but what worked for him did not work for me. I had to pressure bleed because the vacuum generated when I released the slave plunger allowed air in faster than it would pull fresh fluid from the clutch master.

I have 2 different style vacuum bleeders but I still prefer pedal bleeding. I dont know if you've noticed but air can come in around the threads of the bleed screw. That can't happen with pedal bleeding. Fluid can come out but air can't come in

Oops. I had the wrong year. Like yarb said, the cars with external regulators used a single prong oil pressure sensor. Round. You can put a flat terminal on that wire and just use the sensor terminal on yours. The other terminal is a switch. Don't know on the other wire.

Looks like the wrong sensor. My 78 has the duel plug. Has to do with the fuel pump circuit.

It looks so easy. Just cut and glue. What could go wrong?

Hmmm, I have no idea these days, but that *might* be the same guy I bought a '72 rolling shell from back in about 1995. His name was Clark and he sold Z's and Z parts from somewhere in AZ. Even back then, he was slow to respond and when I got the car, he had swapped some body parts with the car next to it. I bought it sight unseen and had it shipped to Michigan. He sent pics of a bunch of different Z's when I told him what I was looking for. In the background, there were a bunch of other Z cars. I picked a car based on pics and his description and when the car arrived, the front fenders had bondo in them and clearly didn't match the description I was given. I looked back at the pics he sent and I could tell he had swapped them before it was shipped. They matched the car next to the one I bought. Overall, I still did well. The car was pretty much what I wanted and it is now owned by another member here and is in Paris, France.

Ah... Hope it's all there then! I just went a month ago? to the plater Galvano here in the netherlands and i always care to put nothing in it under lets say 8 mm big.. i had 3 very small screws in a batch of 50 Lbs or so? and... i got everything back in good as new condition.. (very small ones i put a ring on them and a nut that way they always come back.. never failed!) Including the thirsty ride in my 300zx 😉 i had to pay about 200Euro for the badge.. not bad.. they said it was not very profitable as there were a lot of big parts this time.. some nice fuel lines.. springs i use a small piece of steel to stretch them so it is plated perfect! 40 Lbs of steel stufffff........ fuel intake 280zx (gonna use this one on my 240z one day...i think it's better hope it fits.. (these are also on the 280z i think?))

I'm not sure he has a 280z rail.. or the 280zx rail. (As i'm busy with my 280zx engine, have some pics.) Here the 280zx rail.. upper=1982-1983 (i think US version not sure) and lower is 1979 (euroversion.) Here the upper is the 1979 280zx rail... euro version.. i'm sure..

Nice day! IMG_2304.MOV