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Eureka!!!!!!!! One of the first things that showed a possible problem when I first ran into this problem was my AFM so I replaced it with a rebuilt one but checked it before installation. I tried increasing the fuel pressure as suggested by Siteunseen with no improvement. I was just about to pull the ECU plug and go over the testing procedures to see if I missed anything but instead I called a friend of mine who has some Z stuff to see if he had an old AFM that I could install and see if it made any difference. W E L L L L L L L L L ------- I install this used, grungy one from a friend this afternoon and it WORKS!!! It is not the first time I have ilnstalled a rebuilt item and it didn't work correctly. I don't know what the issue was with the rebuilt one, I had examined the carbon track and it look perfect, it could be the batch of resistors for that portion could have been bad or not the correct resistance because I had already done the FSM's suggested checks on it as a precaution before I installed it. Applying the 12v and looking for reducing voltage as you move the air vane didn't show me anything unusal. Anyway thanks to all who have given me suggestion. I guess if anything I have become a better informed owner which I don't mind. This is no my first rodeo working on car but this issue was driving me nuts because it was not making sense and many of you out there have a tremendous knowledge base with these cars. Will post pictures if I can figure out has to do that when I get it all cleaned up, licensed, insured and on the road.

And today, the final stage of my birthday present, I was able to put a vise grip on the stub and easily break it free then unthread it by hand. Yahoo! It never goes this smooth.... What do you think? Buy new head bolts or just re-use the old ones?

And another.

There's a HUGE thread on the topic that details the differences in lenses and mounting rings. It also shows mounting hardware. I've been on this forum for about 15 years and have seen countless folks start the repro headlight cover manufacturing process. However, none ever reported back that they had succeeded.

I chased a resonance problem years ago. I started by replacing all the u-joints. No luck. The half shafts didn't spin fast enough to produce my vibration. I had the drive shaft balance checked and they found it was slightly bent. They re-tubed the drive shaft and the vibration disappeared.

Big milestone for me today! My first engine removal. Took about 2 hours solo. Zero issues along the way which was awesome. No seized bolts, no rounded bolts, nothing broke! I ended up using two water pump bolts for the front as I didnt have a short enough bolt for the head bolt holes. I cant wait to start cleaning this up and refreshing. Check out the spider nest in the bell housing 😨

Didn't we have a topic a couple of years ago of somebody wanting to repop these?

My error. Your pic of the insulator/mount helped refresh me and I was able to locate a pic of my lines straddling the rod. The larger fuel supply line does run under the rod, the other three lines are above it. Sorry for the bad info.

I'd bet that if you used a multimeter on resistance, it would probably have no resistance to the negative post on the battery, provided the battery is connected.

Past inspection with flying colors, a tad high CO but I was allowed to tune the carbs a bit so no problem. No more inspection needed here in Sweden for this car 1973 so that’s good.