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Im trying to get the spring retainer locally and an air compressor to keep the valve from falling.

Good man! You're doing the right thing! 👍 Looking forward to hearing about your successes.

@jalexquijano Everyone agrees there's no need to remove the head to change a valve seal and if you do you may be opening a Pandora's Box of trouble and expense. The compression is good on all cylinders so we know the rings and valves are sealing. The only problem is a fouled #4 plug which, by process of elimination, we've come to believe is a leaking valve seal. Installing one valve seal is a piece of cake compared to pulling and reinstalling the head.

I thought I was clear but clearly not ;)

So we've known eachother for how many years... And you're just figuring that out? Na-Nu Na-Nu.

also picked up a set of shiny new bumpers from bumper automobile out of Vietnam. My experience using them detailed in this thread: Very impressed with the quality.

Nearly knocked off the front section of the rotisserie this week, so close! I keep stressing that my progress is too slow. But I try to remind my self it’s one tiny task at a time, every little job complete is one little job less on the list. The old how do you eat an elephant thing.... Base and pivot point welded up and complete, castors installed. Next on the list: -weld in supports on the base and pivot - due to the damage to the bumper mount section on my car I have decided to add additional tie in points, I will be using the front tow points, however the bolts had snapped on all the points so I will need to tackle that before hand - move onto the rear of the rotisserie ryan

Before and after on the dealer AC controls. Original setup was from ARA, new setup is a mostly pieced together system to make adding AC as minimally invasive as possible. For the controls the ARA unit was disassembled, cleaned, and new switches installed. Also replaced the ARA logo with a Z one to change things up.

If the panel is mounted on the garage then you could possibly punch through the back of the panel and mount a sub panel in the garage and have power to your hearts content

Available to the highest bidder . I’ve had a lot of interest over this truck . I’ve also got more in it than most will pay - lol

I have never felt such love for a truck before....

That's reaction time from the winner!

Yep.....by .250 seconds.

Some black magic! Seriously though, I adjusted the top GM style mount on the RT Mount to recentre the diff. There are two holes for positioning about 1/2" apart. I moved it one over. I also shimmed the driver side of the RT mount against the tunnel to allow the slightly narrower mount to sit centred in the tunnel. To offset the slight shift, I added a washer to the back mounting lugs on the driver side to make the diff sit flat and flush to the moustache bar.

Why reinvent the wheel? I just found a DBW throttle body from Bosch Motorsports in 74mm which is slightly more than the calculation for engine 'need' that has a weld on flange with a 70mm square bolt pattern. I suspect it will work but I have to wait for it to come from Australia to check it. I will keep you posted.

I have a jump box. A great tool to have around

You can do a lot with a timing light. Connect the light, start the engine, watch the light move as you turn the distributor. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose and rev the engine. Timing should advance (more degrees on the damper pulley as you watch the light) as RPM increase. Let the engine run at a speed slightly above idle (so that the ported vacuum will be applied) and reconnect the vacuum advance hose. Timing should advance considerably once vacuum is applied and drop when the hose is disconnected. Basically, you'll be leaning over a hot noisy engine watching the timing light flashes on the damper pulley while you work the throttle and disconnect/reconnect hoses. It's fun.

Looking fantastic. I still need to come by and go through your A/C installation in detail. I'm nearly at that point on my '72 and need to decide on my path forward. I'm also almost ready for the first start so if you hear something odd coming from just south of you, it could be that! Dennis

Check this out. LED strips on the rafters, low voltage but super bright. I'll try it someday but for now I have four 4ft led hanging lights with a pull cord on/off. https://www.instructables.com/Inexpensive-Garage-Lights-From-LED-Strips/

Maybe not. and could be or? What are the risks of going the easy way and remove the complete head cylinder instead?

What the old chargers did with a lot of copper and iron (in the form of a transformer), the new ones do with semiconductors. And in today's age, silicon is a lot cheaper than copper. So the bottom line is that most of the new chargers now have silicon components where the old transformers used to be. The way of the world. Lightweight silicon and software instead of heavy copper and capacitors.

SU’s vs Mikunis.....Me and Eiji ran at Dinwiddie Friday night. SU’s in the green car.......Mikunis in the 280ZX. I love my SU’s. EA6A6DF7-C686-4CB6-BD8D-96BC0F5CA4F2.MOV

After that, I inspected all the u joints and all the rear suspension bolts. All good and tight. Then I checked the alignment of the driveshaft and discovered the diff nose was off centre by almost 1/2” side to side. Realigned the diff tonight and checked with a laser to get it as close to perfect alignment with the trans output shaft. The driveshaft is a custom 4” aluminum unit with GM ujoints and has been balanced when built. frickin’ lasers!

I have two of these. Bought the second after I thought I had lost the first one. They have a wide range of options, besides the typical charger. https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-TenderR-Plus https://www.batterytender.com/battery-chargers

Will do. I think once I get up in the attic, I will have a better idea what I have to work with, but I like your subpage idea! I could pull two 20amp for the outlets and another 20amp for the lights.

You could always PM me some pictures and I could help work on some ideas

Hey guys thanks for the tips. I found that other adjustment screw and it helped give me lots more range. The firing order, distributor allignment, etc are all correct. I decided to swap the spark plugs, because the old ones were fouled from my AFM "diagnosing". Anyhow, she runs much better, especially when cold. A few things to note, it takes a long time to start (I am thinking that the fuel pressure bleeds off) and it runs much better when cold. However when warm there is a very clear missfire happening and very, very occasional pops out the intake, but the new spark plugs mostly fixed that. It just sounds like its stumbling. I have done tons of little tricks and tests to rule out spark, which is completely fine. I also believe the timing is almost good, as I have the distributor set where it runs best. Now the missfire and stumbling baffles me, but I have some questions. First, I reppined the fuel injector connectors for new ones and I am worried that I have every single connector exactly backwards. What I mean by that is that the two wires were swapped potentially. Would this affect how the injector fires. Online has many different opinions as they are just "solenoids" and will work no matter what. Other people say that if they are backwards they may fire out of phase. Second, does it matter which injector connector goes where. I remember reading somewhere that it didn't matter on these old z cars. Last of all, I was wondering if someone could test their own car with the ignition on, and see which port in your injector connector is the switched positive and which is ground. That way I can determine if mine are backwards. We are so close to correcting all the millions of mistakes I made on this car originally, I see the endzone.

I won't even put stickers on my cars for that reason. The Zs are well known around town but that Camry and my D21 pickup are getaway cars.

Just realise i still (sometimes) use my casio FX80 since 1982... pfff...

Few more loose ends to tie up and the Z will be ready for its first fire up.

Oops, sorry my friend. Originally had Ryan and changed it to Jeff because of Charles's earlier post. I'm guessing Ryan is correct? Somehow I missed the bumper were stainless, takes care of any corrosion issues. I like watching your videos by the way... Cheers

So my bumpers from bumper automobile arrived today 11th May via fedex. and I have to say the finish is quite stunning! So shiny! I had heard good reviews about these from some local z guys but I wasn’t expecting them to be this good. Packaging was excellent, very well protected. Wrapped in bubble wrap, taped, wrapped in fabric, taped, then there is polystyrene sheets in the box as well. so ordered 24th April and received 11th May. So just over two weeks from ordering to my door. communication has been very good, always received a response. for the cost, these are exceptional value! I will trial fit these and update at some point (probably not for a little while)

Is yours not inside the booster? It seems that when the become dislodged they are normally just rattling around inside the booster.

Synching all those would be fun!!

Fuel tank installed tonight. One step closer to hearing it fire up!

Steady progress has been made to get everything ready for the first fire up. While we wait for a few parts to ship in, I worked to get the AC system finished up, and cleaned up the valve cover. So far the AC system is routing like I had hoped, clean and out of the way. I never liked how the dealers installed the drier on the inner fender with sheet metal screws. On the front core support it should hide nicely from view.